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Discuss Tap tail adaptors,what is the point? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Does anybody use these?I've always connected a flexi hose tap connector end directly to a service valve and never had any problems. You have to make another compression joint between the service valve and the tap tail adaptors and then just screw the flexi hose to that. What is the point, or am I missing something?
 
Service valves don`t have a flat mating face for the rubber washer so can cut into the washer, that said there are now valves with a flat face just for this.
I understand the principle but provided you do not over tighten do you think the service valve would really cut into the washer?
 
In short, - service valves have a tapered sharp edge for a reason - the olive supplied is to fit into it.

Note if you have any spare 15mm radiator tails, they will do for to convert one side of a service valve to a flat face.
Look good also if you use chrome service valves, therefore all chrome
As long as compression if soldering or pushfit the chrome needs to be removed from the tail.
 
5 mins with a file and your sorted your flat face out
 
As long as compression if soldering or pushfit the chrome needs to be removed from the tail.

There wouldn’t be any soldering into most service valves, but good point on if push fit service valves were used. I never use them, so tend to forget.
The OP was meaning compression end of service valves though I think
 
Cowboy!
;)
That is what your Stanley deep Pro boxes are for, - to carry all fittings including male fittings :p

:D

True but I've run out of room already
 
Yes.

My daughter had a massive insurance claim due to one, on a recent build.
Just as a matter of interest had the service valve split the washer, if so it must have been really tight because the washers are quite tough, or had the joint not been made properly.If you have a tap flexi that is 12mm you don't have any choice but to connect it to a 12/15mm compression reducer which will have the same sharp edge as a service valve or am I incorrect?
 
Yes you are incorrect. Most of these 12mm flexis end in 15mm compression or 1/2" female unions, some "foreign" ones will end in 3/8" or a.n.other. A good way of connecting them is with the appropriate size of male iron, eg 15mm compression to 1/2" male iron; these have a nice wide flat face and provide the perfect surface for the washer.
The problem with filing an iso down is that at what ever point you stop filing, the nature of the spiral thread means that at one point the wall is very thin - some makes are better than others, granted, and I have been know to do this - you just have to be careful!
 
I have had to replace some leaking pipework due to the installer tightening a flexi onto an iso valve.
The flat washer ends up convex.
 
On the same theme, does anyone come across washing machine hoses that are leaking at the connection to the valves?
Most of the cheap washing machine valves have a thin edge (some have a sharp edge) and seem to eventually start weeping.
 
Cos we have had to learn so much about this for product development, thought you may be interested in the following.

When using any 'sharp' surface to connect to a flat rubber (nitrile) washer if it is overtightened (and frankly I' d defy anyone to judge that without literal xray vision) it causes stress fractures in the rubber structure.

Whilst one part (the outer part) may be held captive, the middle is subject to continuous flexing due to water flow & pressure fluctuations and will eventually part company with the outer.

When sandwiched between two flat surfaces those fractures simply do not happen. Filing can work very very well IF you can get the surface perfectly flat with no obvious file marks.

The minimum surface contact area should be 2x the depth of washer and remember you only need to compress the rubber by 10-20% to get an effective seal.
 
Yes you are incorrect. Most of these 12mm flexis end in 15mm compression or 1/2" female unions, some "foreign" ones will end in 3/8" or a.n.other. A good way of connecting them is with the appropriate size of male iron, eg 15mm compression to 1/2" male iron; these have a nice wide flat face and provide the perfect surface for the washer.
The problem with filing an iso down is that at what ever point you stop filing, the nature of the spiral thread means that at one point the wall is very thin - some makes are better than others, granted, and I have been know to do this - you just have to be careful!
I bought a Roca mixer tap which came with flexis with 12mm tap connector ends with rubber washers.I therefore fixed it to a 12/15mm compression coupling as I didn't know how else to fix it.
 
ive fitted many flexi connectors straight on service valves in my time its i think about not over tightening,i normally spend 5 mins taking tools to van check when i come back,,then 5 mins invoicing,chatting and check again befor i leave.never had a come back.
 
ive fitted many flexi connectors straight on service valves in my time its i think about not over tightening,i normally spend 5 mins taking tools to van check when i come back,,then 5 mins invoicing,chatting and check again befor i leave.never had a come back.
i meant to say i not had a come back
 
on the subject of tightness,,ive put my hand on a bath mixer tap both hot and cold and unscrewed by hand amazed, when i explained to the client she told me 20 years ago installed,i really not quite understand.
 
Neither do I!
With flexible rubber seals you can actually get them to squash into the rubber a reasonable amount by hand. In my case I always feel the need to give them a decent nip with a spanner.
ive fitted many flexi connectors straight on service valves in my time its i think about not over tightening,i normally spend 5 mins taking tools to van check when i come back,,then 5 mins invoicing,chatting and check again befor i leave.never had a come back.
I recently installed several vanity units at my daughter's,the taps came with flexis and I screwed them straight to service valves. In view of some of the comments on here I went back and put tap tail adaptors on.Three of the compression joints went on fine but I couldn't stop the fourth from dripping even when really tight. I ended up taking it off but then couldn't get the olive off, fortunately I had a spare adaptor and put that on. I couldn't help feeling that maybe I was giving myself a lot of work for nothing but some of the posts made the doubt creep in. Just as a matter of interest, if the washer did fail eventually if screwed straight to a service valve would it just weep slightly or properly leak?
 
Usually when they leak, they just weep very slightly, but can create corrosion on fittings and the pipe.
I have photos somewhere where a couple of flexi to ISO’s that leaked and first signs was damp ceiling
 
C63544E6-0160-4EEF-85A3-356011C14AE7.jpeg
 
Case proven mi lord :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Lol! Yes, photo evidence has caught the culprit. :p
I recall that was a 9 years old bathroom done by an idiot plumber who did a lot worse. (Shower waste was next thing to literally flood the kitchen below).
Those pipes were hidden behind pedestal and leaks corroded pipes badly, remaining unnoticed until ceiling below got damp
 

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