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Hi,

I am trying to install a new basin, and have just realised that that the bottle trap is offset from the basins waste outlet. This is because the pipework had been previously made to fit the old basin.

I'd say that the length I need from the basins waste to the bottle trap is about 6-7 inches.

Which means I have two options.


1. Fabricate, and solvent weld new plastic pipe to get it to fit.

2. Try and source a fleixble 32mm Compression part like this :

https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9624bbdf022e3b5395236d5cf8.ssl.cf4.rackcdn.com/Product-800x800/2bcebe97-9366-47ab-9b51-72ae42c2ad3a.png

What should I do, and are there any issues with using these kind of fittings? They look like they can save you a lot of work.

Thanks

 
Providing you have adequate run of I can't see any problem using a flexible fitting, also if you use push fit and not solvent you can make readjustments without all the hassle
 
if you want it to block up,leak and stink the bathrooom out,use flexible diy tat,if you want it to last and be done correctly cut it back and fit solvent weld
 
Best if you can use fixed pipe work....or maybe change the trap ...check out Mac Alpine website regards Turnpin:D
 
Solvent weld is the best method although push fit will also work much better than flexi
 
Best if you can use fixed pipe work....or maybe change the trap ...check out Mac Alpine website regards Turnpin:D

Hi,

How would a McAlpine solve the issue?

The one that was on there before was a McApline, but the one I purchased is near identical.
 
turnpins directing you to this,see if they can get you out of trouble Plastic Bottle Traps - General - Traps | McAlpine Plumbing Products

Thanks for pointing out the website.

But the trap that I have is near identical to the one that I removed.

It's the height of the new basin that is the issue.

So I need to make some adjustments to get the new bottle trap to the level of the new basin waste.

This is why I was asking about a flexi connector.

I might have to make something and solvent weld it.
 
Thanks for pointing out the website.

But the trap that I have is near identical to the one that I removed.

It's the height of the new basin that is the issue.

So I need to make some adjustments to get the new bottle trap to the level of the new basin waste.

This is why I was asking about a flexi connector.

I might have to make something and solvent weld it.

personally i would alter the waste to suit,avoid flexible,they are rubbish,can you cut it lower down and put a solvent 32 mm socket on and just go from there?
 
Would an adjustable bottle trap not sort the issue

Hi,

Vertically it would. But it wouldn't resolve the horizontal issue.

The trap is about 3 inches short of being inline with the basins waste.

e.g.

The traps current position from the basins waste is about 3 inches too short veritcally, and 3 inches too short horizontally.

Hope that explains it better.
 
Hi,

Vertically it would. But it wouldn't resolve the horizontal issue.

The trap is about 3 inches short of being inline with the basins waste.

e.g.

The traps current position from the basins waste is about 3 inches too short veritcally, and 3 inches too short horizontally.

Hope that explains it better.

Would a adjustable trap a 45° and some pipe sort the issue then
 
Would a adjustable trap a 45° and some pipe sort the issue then

Hi,

I had a bit of a rethink and toyed around with some ideas.

Here is a before and after photo.

Just got to weld it up, leak test it, and finally and box it in.

trappic.jpg

trappic2.jpg
 
is it tight in the coupling if not wrong type of tube
 
Hi,

It's solvent weld pipe.

Just need to weld it together and straighten it up.

ok its just the top elbow looks like push fit and push fit plastic wont glue
 
Top bend has to be push fit in that photo! M&F bend. And you have removed it, so it can only be push fit!
Just use push fit connector and a push fit piece of waste pipe and a push fit double socket 90 degree bend (elbow) and that's it done.
Edit, - I should have added that the pipe in photo still could be solvent weld and the push fit bend could be a universal push fit bend for either push fit or solvent weld pipes. If it is, then replace the elbow with a double socket elbow of solvent weld for neatness. Not that it ever will be neat though
 
Last edited:
Top bend has to be push fit in that photo! M&F bend. And you have removed it, so it can only be push fit!
Just use push fit connector and a push fit piece of waste pipe and a push fit double socket 90 degree bend (elbow) and that's it done.
Edit, - I should have added that the pipe in photo still could be solvent weld and the push fit bend could be a universal push fit bend for either push fit or solvent weld pipes. If it is, then replace the elbow with a double socket elbow of solvent weld for neatness. Not that it ever will be neat though

You are probably right.

The top 90 deg bend if probably push fit, but the other parts that I added are all solvet weld.

Couldn't I just replace that with a 90 deg solvent weld elbow and weld everything all together?
 
You are probably right.

The top 90 deg bend if probably push fit, but the other parts that I added are all solvet weld.

Couldn't I just replace that with a 90 deg solvent weld elbow and weld everything all together?

yes but you wont need the top coupling then just a longer piece of pipe
 
yes but you wont need the top coupling then just a longer piece of pipe

True, and I have more pipe.

So it might work out better for me that way.

The reason I went for solvent weld over push fit, is due to the fact that some say solvent weld is less prone to leaks. It's a weld and forget way of jointing something.
 
True, and I have more pipe.

So it might work out better for me that way.

The reason I went for solvent weld over push fit, is due to the fact that some say solvent weld is less prone to leaks. It's a weld and forget way of jointing something.

yes much better except you cant mix and match as made of different plastics
 
True, and I have more pipe.

So it might work out better for me that way.

The reason I went for solvent weld over push fit, is due to the fact that some say solvent weld is less prone to leaks. It's a weld and forget way of jointing something.

You have to use enough glue on them though and a little turn as you push it together.
But push fit above floors is handy for when you ever have to alter the waste pipes in the future and their rubber joint seal will last 30 or 40 years no bother at all if done right.
 
top tip put glue on the fitting and the pipe not much but a brush width all the way round and give it a turn (set fasts so be quick if doing an elbow as you might find its not square/ right position :D )
 
top tip put glue on the fitting and the pipe not much but a brush width all the way round and give it a turn (set fasts so be quick if doing an elbow as you might find its not square/ right position :D )

Thanks

Will give it a try and let you know how I get on.
 
You have to use enough glue on them though and a little turn as you push it together.
But push fit above floors is handy for when you ever have to alter the waste pipes in the future and their rubber joint seal will last 30 or 40 years no bother at all if done right.

I agree. But I don't envisage adjusting this one.

I want it to be one complete piece.

But would use Push Fit if I was doing something under a Sink.
 
I agree. But I don't envisage adjusting this one.

I want it to be one complete piece.

But would use Push Fit if I was doing something under a Sink.

Never say never. If your basin cracked next year, you probably will have to buy a different brand and might find the waste position is different again and your solvent weld fittings are for bin
 
Never say never. If your basin cracked next year, you probably will have to buy a different brand and might find the waste position is different again and your solvent weld fittings are for bin

Thanks Best,

But it wouldn't exactly be the end of the world. I'd just cut it and replace with new fittings.

I'd be more concerned about the Basin cracking.
 
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