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Discuss Salamander shower pump not working on cold in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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My wife was having a shower, the kids were in the bath and decided to run the tap and I think the washing machine and dishwasher were both on.

The shower pump (salamander CT50+ twin) suddenly stopped working. Now it only works on hot. If I turn the shower temp to cold, it turns off.

I have switched it off at the mains and turned the shower on to try and remove any air. If it’s set to hot water comes through but hardly any comes out when on cold.

I phoned the manufacturer and a chap asked me to check the cold-water tank in the loft for any blockage. This is where it gets confusing for me.

There are four pipes to the pump. I’m assuming this hot and cold in and hot and cold out. One pipe comes from my hot water cylinder and another leaves on the same side up into the attic, so that sorts that one out I think. Of the remaining two that go up to the attic I thought one would connect to the cold-water tank, however all three pipes go up into the attic and then towards the shower. None seem to connect to the tank. I also notice as I moved them sideways to have a look there a was a slight hissing sound at the 90 deg bend of the left one. Could this be letting air in?

On top of this there are two tanks, a larger and a smaller one. I had a look inside and they don’t seem too clean, the small one is particularly bad. Could they do with flushing and cleaning? What is the smaller one for, I'm assuming CH expansion tank? It looks quite empty.

I have taken the shower head off. I am tempted to blow down it to try and force any blockage back. Is this a good idea?

Can anyone offer any further help?

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Install isn't the greatest sounds like something's gone in the pump the big one supplies your pump little one is for your heating
 
The chap I spoke to seemed to think the pump was ok as it works fine for hot water. Can it break on one side only? He thought if nothing blocking at the tank I need to check the pump filter. I don't know how to do this.

If the pump is borked is there a good silent alternative. It's a noisy bu@@er (or at least it was).
 
Could be the impeller has broken your only way to tell is to get someone in to test / have a look
 
If you view the pump with its width running from left to right and the lowest connectors at the back then:

1. The hot inlet and outlet are on the left, the inlet being the lower of the two, the one with the right angled connector.
2. The cold inlet and outlet are on the left, again the inlet being the one with the right angled connector.
3. There are isolation valves in the end of the flexible ("anti-vibration") pipes which connect the pump to the white plastic pipework. These have a screwdriver slot. If the slot is at right angles to the pipe, the valve is closed. If the slot is parallel with the pipe, the valve is open.
4. Close both isolation valves on the cold end of the pump. Unscrew the right angled inlet connector, allowing for some water spillage from the contents of the cold side of the pump. There should be a filter between the end of the connector and the pump body where the connector screws on. Its just a piece of round mesh set in the rubber washer which seals the connector to the pump.
5. If that filter is blocked, or allowing very little water through, it will cause the symptoms you describe. Take it out and clean it.
6. Reattach the connector, finger tight plus 1/4 turn, then open both isolation valves. Let water run through to the shower with the pump turned off to prime it, then see if it runs normally.
7. Other possible causes are an airlock in the pipe from the cold water storage cistern (the big tank in the loft) or a faulty flow detection switch on the pump. You might be able to clear an airlock by sucking through the cold connector to the pump. A faulty switch will mean a new pump.
 
If you view the pump with its width running from left to right and the lowest connectors at the back then:

1. The hot inlet and outlet are on the left, the inlet being the lower of the two, the one with the right angled connector.
2. The cold inlet and outlet are on the left, again the inlet being the one with the right angled connector.
3. There are isolation valves in the end of the flexible ("anti-vibration") pipes which connect the pump to the white plastic pipework. These have a screwdriver slot. If the slot is at right angles to the pipe, the valve is closed. If the slot is parallel with the pipe, the valve is open.
4. Close both isolation valves on the cold end of the pump. Unscrew the right angled inlet connector, allowing for some water spillage from the contents of the cold side of the pump. There should be a filter between the end of the connector and the pump body where the connector screws on. Its just a piece of round mesh set in the rubber washer which seals the connector to the pump.
5. If that filter is blocked, or allowing very little water through, it will cause the symptoms you describe. Take it out and clean it.
6. Reattach the connector, finger tight plus 1/4 turn, then open both isolation valves. Let water run through to the shower with the pump turned off to prime it, then see if it runs normally.
7. Other possible causes are an airlock in the pipe from the cold water storage cistern (the big tank in the loft) or a faulty flow detection switch on the pump. You might be able to clear an airlock by sucking through the cold connector to the pump. A faulty switch will mean a new pump.
So basically what I said but in more detail???:D:D:D
 
Thanks for that very detailed reply.

Can I just check, with the pump horizontal and the lower inlets at the back, I would have though right side would be hot in and out as the the pipe to the inlet comes from the hot water cistern? See picture. Has it been connected up wrong, or does it not matter which way round it goes?

I may have a go in situ but if I remove the pump completely is it possible to test it by connecting a hose pipe to the inlets?
 
Last edited:
I took the inlets off (I did the hot also but perhaps that was silly). The cold inlet was pretty clogged. I have cleaned both. With power off water still flow on hot but nothing really on cold. Sadly I think I have now airlocked the hot as it worked for a few seconds and then stopped also :/
 
Thanks all. Well now the cold is working. I disconnected the inlet and ran it into a bowl. It had air in the inlet pipe. Just need to fix the hot now.

EDIT. Both working now. Thanks again to everyone.
 
Thanks all. Well now the cold is working. I disconnected the inlet and ran it into a bowl. It had air in the inlet pipe. Just need to fix the hot now.

EDIT. Both working now. Thanks again to everyone.
You are more than welcome mate. Glad we could help.
 
The shower works but I decided to look at the hissing pipe. It has a slight drip from it. I have tracked it as the cold-water inlet pipe. It doesn’t come from the tank as all 3 pipes track into the loft.

I fiddled with the joint to try and tighten it, but does anyone know how to tighten it properly. I don’t know how to isolate it so don’t want to botch it.


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I'm wondering if the water pipe brings water back from the pipe in the grey cover/sheath. If so is it likely it will have isolation where they meet?
 

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