Power flush? will I really need this?

[Vass]

Hi Forum
I have replaced all pipework and rads over the past 3 years.
The boiler has finaly given up
So, before I put in a new one, do I really need to power flush?
I was going to drain the system and have a look for debris, if its pretty clear
I'd have thought a power flush was un-neccassary.
There has been some brown flakes in the pump about a year ago that I had to clear out
so maye I'm answering my own Q. but advice appreciated.
As the whole system will be empty, and the boiler removed this weekend, all I have is an open set of pipes and rads with a disconnected flow and return awaiting arrival of the new boiler. If I just connect these together and run a hose at one rad at the other end of the house, and simply run water through and out the other end, would this not do ?

TIA
Vass

 

[Bill the gasman]

Hi Vass
Sounds like you know what you are doing, the BS is vague in saying how a system should be flushed so do it like you say and add a quality inhibitor when you have finnished. Power flushing is for sludged and contminated systems.
Cheers Mate

 

[aggis]

Hi.
You've got to add a chemical cleanser & run for a min 2 hours [hot], then drain, refiill flush through & finally fill with an inhibitor.
If you didn't do this & had a problem when under warranty, the manufactures would walk away.
If you're investing in a new boiler it makes sense, also would recommend a filter such as Magnaclean on the return pipe to the boiler.
If all radiators working well, this should suffice, if got poor flow to them a powerflush would help.

 

[Bill the gasman]

Hi aggis
Yes Magnacleans are excellent, but just done the Baxi course last week and they say it is not a requirement to chemically treat the water, they say the number of benchmark forms they see with WHAT CLEANER WAS USED and the answer is H2O. The instructer said they cant tell if a cleaner was used, just inhibitor when done.

 

[aggis]

Hi,
I understand what your saying, but if I'm installing, I don't want any comebacks & most of the manufactures state the system should be flushed with a chemical cleanser. I advise magnacleans or similar because of the extra protection of the boiler from the production of magnetite in the system.
You're correct that the manufactures can't identify what cleanser was used,[ nor inhibitor unless they've got the brands testing kit.] But they use a TDS meter to test the water quality [dirt]
Dirty water no warranty work, especially on plate heat exchangers.
It might take a little longer but I'd rather have peace of mind & if you explain this to the customer, they are usually happy to pay for it, or if not just put on your final invoice that you offered this & then you're covered when late on in their warranty the manufactures won't replace their parts because of water quality.

 

[Bill the gasman]

Hi aggis
I know what you are saying and I agree, you are obviosly a contientious installer, but I was answering vass' question. I think you will find plate heat exchanger problems due to lack of a lime buster on cold inlet.

 

[GPSNewcastle]

Hiring the powerflusher would cost about £40-£50 and it is easy to carry out so I would advise you to do it yourself it you are trying to save money.

 

[Powerflushman]

There is only one way to get an independent answer. Have the water quality tested FIRST by the power flush association, THEN if you need it done get prices, etc. Saves me loads of complaints when other plumbers get it wrong and make me look bad.

 

[kay-jay]

There is only one way to get an independent answer. Have the water quality tested FIRST by the power flush association, THEN if you need it done get prices, etc. Saves me loads of complaints when other plumbers get it wrong and make me look bad.

tested by the powerflush association??? doesn't exactly sound independent now does it?

bet the answer is always 'oh yes you need a PF', btw is the PF association also known as BG?

 

[boblydon]

Powerfushing is a must do in my opinion and should always be done.

Bob

 

[stevetheplumber]

replacing anything thats been open vented power flush definatly anything thats been sealed and is workin fine apart from the boiler needing changing i just look at whats come out put put the drain down hose into a bucket small specs in it then fit a magna clean

 

[RoryD]

Hi Forum
I have replaced all pipework and rads over the past 3 years.
The boiler has finaly given up
So, before I put in a new one, do I really need to power flush?
I was going to drain the system and have a look for debris, if its pretty clear
I'd have thought a power flush was un-neccassary.
There has been some brown flakes in the pump about a year ago that I had to clear out
so maye I'm answering my own Q. but advice appreciated.
As the whole system will be empty, and the boiler removed this weekend, all I have is an open set of pipes and rads with a disconnected flow and return awaiting arrival of the new boiler. If I just connect these together and run a hose at one rad at the other end of the house, and simply run water through and out the other end, would this not do ?

TIA
Vass

Mate I would. Pre dose the system for a few days with Fernox F3 just to chew into corrosion and then powerflush the system with correct flushing agent. If you have brown / Orange deposits it is oxcidic corrosion so I would be looking at configuration plas maybe blocked cold feed. Ensure you fit an air seperator