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Discuss Potterton Profile 50e not sparking in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Michael29068

Gas Engineer
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Hi, I am looking at a Potterton Profile 50e on which initially the fan was cycling on start up. I changed the Pcb and this sorted the cycling problem however I cannot get it to start sparking.
I have checked air tubes and restrictors to Air Press Switch and also Air Press Switch is changing over. Door seals are ok and connections onto pcb are ok. I have also changed ignition lead and electrode, but it will not spark for me. I have also tried another Pcb.
Any suggestions anyone.
 
Is there power at the pcb? And if yes is there power on the A.P.S and Fan. If not check your wiring on the PCB.
 
Check all the connections on the board. If necessary go through every wire again. Is it clicking at all? Is there power at the gas valve?
 
Surely if there is power to the fan and aps. I would be checking my wiring on the new board. Sounds like either APS or board. Check APS tubes are on the correct way around and pcb has been wired correctly and fuses are ok if there is any on the board.
 
Is there 240 v between T2 and T4?
Have you replaced APS?
Have you checked overheat stat?

Here !

Page 26
 
Pretty sure a profile wouldn’t spark without the case on even with a new APS,sometime trying to simulate enough pressure to operate the switch is not exact enough & trying to see the spark with the case on can be hard to confirm.Try disconnection the HT lead from pcb an using an insulated screw driver near by weather it’s bridging a spark to that. If you’ve got continuity through your lead then there is no reason it should not spark at pilot assembly. Could be wrong but maybe take out pilot injector an check this is not blocked
 
Pretty sure a profile wouldn’t spark without the case on even with a new APS,sometime trying to simulate enough pressure to operate the switch is not exact enough & trying to see the spark with the case on can be hard to confirm.Try disconnection the HT lead from pcb an using an insulated screw driver near by weather it’s bridging a spark to that. If you’ve got continuity through your lead then there is no reason it should not spark at pilot assembly. Could be wrong but maybe take out pilot injector an check this is not blocked
thanks for your replie





Thanks for your replies, I have not got back to this boiler yet but I have disconnected HT lead already and checked whether it is bridging a spark and it is not, as for the pilot injector being blocked I am not not getting a spark at the electrode to light the pilot even if it is clear. I seem to get the APS to change over when the fan runs.
 
You say that you tried another PCB ? was it a used one ? as the second board could be faulty !
 
Pretty sure a profile wouldn’t spark without the case on even with a new APS,sometime trying to simulate enough pressure to operate the switch is not exact enough & trying to see the spark with the case on can be hard to confirm.Try disconnection the HT lead from pcb an using an insulated screw driver near by weather it’s bridging a spark to that. If you’ve got continuity through your lead then there is no reason it should not spark at pilot assembly. Could be wrong but maybe take out pilot injector an check this is not blocked


You’re right. I wasn’t thinking. It’s a positive pressure case isn’t it.
 
Got to be the fan not running fast enough or you have been unlucky & new board was faulty !
 
blow down the aps tube if you can

if it fires fan not spinning fast enough
 
Was the APS from a working boiler?
I have not got back to this boiler yet, when I do I am going to try a used PCB first and maybe then a used APS which I have taken off a working boiler which I have replaced with a new high efficiency condensing boiler. I have already blown down the APS tubes.
 
did it fire?
 
Not 100%sure but Is there a Venturi on aps tube before aps, if there is check this? You may have already by passed this by blowing down the aps if you went straight on to the positive connection on it.If so got to be slow running fan or flue.
Had ridiculously high emissions from profile before an I put it down to glue & turned out to be slow running fan, could be same in your situation but the fans got to point where it won’t even operate the APS
 
Not 100%sure but Is there a Venturi on aps tube before aps, if there is check this? You may have already by passed this by blowing down the aps if you went straight on to the positive connection on it.If so got to be slow running fan or flue
 
Not 100%sure but Is there a Venturi on aps tube before aps, if there is check this? You may have already by passed this by blowing down the aps if you went straight on to the positive connection on it.If so got to be slow running fan or flue
I have checked the Venturi and it is not blocked, have alsolconnected a tube externally to APS to activate it
 
Sounds more like APS then mate,can’t remember but is it a 3 wire or 2?
*just read you’ve already tried a new one,I’m out of ideas but be interesting to know how you get on
 
Forgive me for not reading all this again.
Have you checked the obvious like spark gap, electrode, strike point, earthing, HT lead, etc
 
Forgive me for not reading all this again.
Have you checked the obvious like spark gap, electrode, strike point, earthing, HT lead, etc
Earlier on he said that he wasnot getting a spark at all,even disconnecting HT lead from pcb an bridging from the pcb to a insulated screw driver
 
Last edited:
Forgive me for not reading all this again.
Have you checked the obvious like spark gap, electrode, strike point, earthing, HT lead, etc
I have checked all items you detailed and even had a friend of mine take a look at it. This friend works on gas appliances only. I hope to have another look at it over the next day or so.
 
Think the APS is two wire but I could be wrong. I have been before:p:p
 
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