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It looks very diy. Those speedfit fittings are totally unnecessary and look horrible. Still if you're happy then we're happy for you.

Love to see the flue and condense tho please!
 
Hmmm speedfit does not look good, also plugged not on fuse spur, unstraight pipework
 
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Too many elbows. Rotating heating return 90 degree and similar consideration to cold water feed would both square and simplify pipework. More bends and X overs could be pulled and much of the pipework could have been made up on bench, if confidence to solder in place lacking. Copper pushfits to replace plastic on 22mm heating runs would have been better at minimal additional cost. Better still, having cut and formed pipework, pay heating engineer to solder joints whilst he was doing gas supply.
 
It doesn't look bad (expected it to be push fit fittings) but would like to see where the high temp blow off goes (copper pipe by the plastic overflow pipe) and flue
 
the reason i got tld for the nonfuse socket is was the was pulled up by a gas safe inspection and told him its not to have a switch on ???? i`m only going off what he told me
we have a saying if its not broken dont fix it and its running like a dream, i did watch it get so many drains the water was clear and watched him sticking a bottle of f1 in, full benchmark paperwork all filled in, called gs up and confirmed its been registered
i let you guys discuss oh and here is the flue
20170114_155159.jpg
 
Any chance of an outside pic if it's possible
 
Hmmmm

Does your drain / rain water system go to main drainage or to a soak away ? Do you know ?
 
the reason i got tld for the nonfuse socket is was the was pulled up by a gas safe inspection and told him its not to have a switch on ???? i`m only going off what he told me
we have a saying if its not broken dont fix it and its running like a dream, i did watch it get so many drains the water was clear and watched him sticking a bottle of f1 in, full benchmark paperwork all filled in, called gs up and confirmed its been registered
i let you guys discuss oh and here is the flue
View attachment 28680

He's wrong re fuse spur
 
the drain is fed straight into the main drains (sewers)

That's ok needs a non return valve fitting or an air gap out side

Else if rain pipe gets blocked below connection for the boiler all the rain water could flood the boiler its happened before
 
Too many elbows. Rotating heating return 90 degree and similar consideration to cold water feed would both square and simplify pipework. More bends and X overs could be pulled and much of the pipework could have been made up on bench, if confidence to solder in place lacking. Copper pushfits to replace plastic on 22mm heating runs would have been better at minimal additional cost. Better still, having cut and formed pipework, pay heating engineer to solder joints whilst he was doing gas supply.

This was a professional installation
 
hi again guys
an update here, everything is running well, and ive just had a inspection from gas safe and they are happy with the installation i also pointed out the none switch plug socket my fitter used which got high lighted up on here, and his reply was that my engineer done the correct thing and the exact item we request, this is for an engineers safety to make sure there is no power going to they system when its getting worked on , so he will have to take the plug out of the socket rather than just switch it off at the wall and thats direct from gas safe themselves
 
not according to gas safe, maybe you need to check it out for yourself to stop you getting into any bother off gas safe
Maybe you should appreciate that people give you a help and valuable advises.
You do not seem very pleased that the professional engineers on that forum trying to help you, regardless if your installer has 10000000s of good reviews.

I don't need to be a plumber to see that's a bodge job. I mean not even the simple clips are in order neither levelled up. The wires are poorly done as well as the pipework.
But don't get me wrong having all this done and a high risk of leaks ( Imagine a speedfit pops off ), just to safe money ?

Just pay a couple of hundreds more and you are on the safe side with a good looking installation and not like this.

I don't believe you or anyone who would say that's a good decent installation and I am really proud of it.

Good luck having no leaks and if you have good luck of getting hold the previous installer.
 
i didnt mean to come over as harsh as you think, and i take and still do take all this advice on here is priceless, i was just saying that the regs are upto date with job and thats what i was trying to say, again apologies if i came across a bit blunt
 
Far to cheap use worcester controls and filter and add 2years warranty to your boiler as said a realistic price to do the job is ÂŁ1000+ , take the 2 days off and watch how this install is being done you will regret it if you dont .
 
Far to cheap use worcester controls and filter and add 2years warranty to your boiler as said a realistic price to do the job is ÂŁ1000+ , take the 2 days off and watch how this install is being done you will regret it if you dont .
He has already had it done mate. The thread was started ages ago.
 
i have read all the reviews twice i think that it is under priced
that doesn't make him a bad guy renew all the rads first see how much sluge is in them put a sluge cleaner in the centrol heating and run on the old boiler for the night to break down whats in the pipwork. do you have a magna clean of some sort check and clean. drain down and refill.
if all the rads are being changed there is no need to powerflush with hash chemicals as this can cause more problams .
check that he is gas safe
ark for references for the last three jobs
every body needs to earn a buck
dont for get that you have supplied the boiler the rads he has not mayed a penney on it if it goes wrong its down to you to sort, for what ever reason?
 
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