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New build first fix help needed

Discuss New build first fix help needed in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

I see..

I will be getting another gas engineer to install the boiler etc, but in the mean time i can chase out walls and get the first fix in place so the walls can be dot and dabbed and its not holding everything up for months
 
Im actively looking for one.. but just cant have weeks of downtime waiting for their schedule to be free..

Im real annoyed with the current one going awol, but it is what it is and you live and you learn i guess

Unless you know of any.. or fancy a trip to ringwood yourself haha
 
This is how I do it no joins in the wall and can be dot and dabbed over . Cheers kop

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22mm on H&C's as far as you can. 22mm loop with 15mm drops to rads in copper. If it's all being dot and dabbed then drops can be hessian wrapped and clipped to block/brick behind boards. If you want chrome only on show file off enough chrome plate to solder it into the fitting. Cap it all and pressure test..Happy days:)
 
Yes mate 10mm I have done it with 15mm from a loft void as below , but the first post was a refurb on two flats above a shop the walls were dot and dabbed over with insulated plaster board then skimmed there are no joins other than the manifold in the hallway cupboard just made sense as the floor voids were insulated with rockwool the boards put back , 10mm ply laid on top then a plank type vinyl flooring laid. Kop

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Hey Kop, sorry mate, my fat fingers! Didnt mean to press that!

I was gonna write i totally get why you are the king of pipes! Very tidy work. Great stuff.

So after much consideration i think im going bite the bullet and chase and solder 15mm copper to chrome in the walls and pressure test before dot and dab.. although really like the look of that 10mm work..

I have a final question regarding zoning..

The bungalow is 110m2 but believe it may still need zoning.
The living space is just 3 rads, the rest in bedrooms or bathrooms.
Am i right in thinking i can tee off the 22 flow from the boiler to feed these 3 rads and just tee the return back into the return for the bedroom / bathroom rads?

Can Etrv valves be used as a zoning alternative? Are they building regs compliant, and essentially plumb in up as originally planned above. One flow and return feeding all rads?
 
king of pipes said:
This is how I do it no joins in the wall and can be dot and dabbed over . Cheers kop

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Any particular reason the pipes couldn't come out from floor straight in to valves on the first picture
king of pipes said:
Yes mate the 10mm collapses and kinks .
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i mean straight up from the floor in 15mm copper seems pointless putting them in the wall when you don’t have to or am I missing something
 
Nick Cox said:
Any particular reason the pipes couldn't come out from floor straight in to valves on the first picture

i mean straight up from the floor in 15mm copper seems pointless putting them in the wall when you don’t have to or am I missing something
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guess customer didnt want to see the pipes
 
king of pipes said:
Yes mate 10mm I have done it with 15mm from a loft void as below , but the first post was a refurb on two flats above a shop the walls were dot and dabbed over with insulated plaster board then skimmed there are no joins other than the manifold in the hallway cupboard just made sense as the floor voids were insulated with rockwool the boards put back , 10mm ply laid on top then a plank type vinyl flooring laid. Kop

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Nice neat work KOP, did you have sore neck from crouching and bending doing that?:eek:
 
bogrodder said:
Nice neat work KOP, did you have sore neck from crouching and bending doing that?:eek:
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I survived bud not a big fan of plastic I will only use hep2o , as I said before with all the layers of floor materials and the walls being insulated I though that was best joins in the pipework were kept to a minimum and pipework was all hidden away . Kop
 
Take 15mm in the ceiling then use 2 x 15mm elbows with 10mm reducers above where the radiator is, then take the 10mm to the rad positions using a junction box to hold them in place. No fittings in the wall, make sure you nail clip the 10mm to wall with hair felt behind the 10mm for protection against the block work.

It works perfectly, been doing it for years and never had problems with flow rate.

Also it can be 1 zone as under 150m2. Part L 2014 got rid of that rule. Over 150m2 must be zoned.
 
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Yes if it’s over 150m2 it’ll need to be zoned and controlled by two different room stats linked to 2 port valves.

Well yes Trv’s are a must anyway, but being 110m2 it doesn’t need to be zoned via 2 port valves which is what people are implying by saying all new builds must be zoned.
 
Toby emery said:
Yes if it’s over 150m2 it’ll need to be zoned and controlled by two different room stats linked to 2 port valves.

Well yes Trv’s are a must anyway, but being 110m2 it doesn’t need to be zoned via 2 port valves which is what people are implying by saying all new builds must be zoned.
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Yes so if your below 150m2 then trvs only are fine. That's the way I understand the regs anyway.
 
In regards to new builds requiring zoning I'm working on a Cala development with a minimum of 5 bed house and not one house type is zoned. Where as the site i was on before was 1/2 bed social housing and was zoned. Zone 1 was living room, kitchen, bathroom & hall. Zone 2 bedroom. Seemed pointless to me at the time.
 
Ryooo said:
In regards to new builds requiring zoning I'm working on a Cala development with a minimum of 5 bed house and not one house type is zoned. Where as the site i was on before was 1/2 bed social housing and was zoned. Zone 1 was living room, kitchen, bathroom & hall. Zone 2 bedroom. Seemed pointless to me at the time.
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Has any house been finished/signed off yet? I'd bring it to the developers attention, remember that if your installing the systems, it's up to you to make sure they comply with the latest requirements.
 
Craig Watson said:
Has any house been finished/signed off yet? I'd bring it to the developers attention, remember that if your installing the systems, it's up to you to make sure they comply with the latest requirements.
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Yeah mate, there a into the 3rd phase with other 100 houses signed and handed over. The system is ASHP with hyprid boiler with an unvented indirect cylinder. I've not asked the agent yet but i think it's more to do with SEDBUK rating witch CH zoning obvisouly improbe as does ASHP. I'll find out more. I'm in Scotland also which might make a difference.
 
Burying pipes in a wall is expensive in both the short and long term.

Short term you haven’t got space to properly insulate them meaning a fair portion of your heat will be lost into walls/brickwork.

Long term you’re going to have to rip the room apart if ever you need access.

I dug about 50m of heating pipe out of the wall in our last house and ran properly insulated under the floor. Saved us about 20% on heating bills.

If it were my forever home I’d be avoiding plastic pipe if at all possible.
 
David Lowth said:
Have been sadly let down by a plumber and doing the first fix for a new build. I have questions regarding the correct procedure for chasing in pipework behind what will be dot and dabbed..

Its 3 bed bungalow with 9 radiators in total.

I was planning on running lagged plastic22mm flow / returns in the roof space to and tee off 15s for each radiator. Some of which are underneath windows.

1. How deep do you usually chase when its being dot and dabbed? And do you also just take a notch out of the wall plate?

2. Would you chase one larger channel and run both pipes in the same place?
Does the plastic need to be insulated or ducted in some way so it could potentially be removed at a later date?

3. The rads will be attached to chrome.. would compression fittings with liquid ptfe be ok to use to connect the chrome to plastic? But obvioulsy this wont be able to be removed at a later date without pulling the wall apart.

4. How would you chase it in? Straight line down the wall with an elbow at rad pipe height?

Finally anything else ive overlooked / missing? How would you usually approach this job?

Thanks in advance for any help
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1. Speak to the boarder usually around 15mm cavity, I wouldn't cut through any wall plates joist hangers ect.. Take the most direct route, keeping joints to a minimum

2. You can insulate pipes in a wall chase but there might not be any meat left on the block, example a 22mm pipe with 13mm lagging with an extra 5 mm to cover over the pipe would be a 40mm deep chase, in ceiling voids I insulate if it's being chase in the wall I don't, ducting is a good idea and is great in a concrete floor wouldn't use it in walls unless it was a data cable for a shower that has a processor

3. I prefer to solder on chrome, file the chrome off make sure it's very clean and solder an elbow onto it with clean copper, and push the copper into a couplin, that's the only time I put an extra joint in the wall

4. Find the most direct route, but keep away from where people hang pictures, where door hinges are (I had a chippy put a 4 inch screw!! through a heating pipe), you're normally OK though) avoid where the skirting will go.

I use hep20 and test 1.5x working pressure for 45mins. 10 bar for 45mins where pressure is not know yet (new water main ect..) waivin suggest 18 bar with no appliances connect but I have yet to try this for good reason lol I trust there push fit caps but not that much
 
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