Moving a radiator from 1 wall to another

[Jamie Banks]

Hi Guys,

Got a job to do for a relative and was after some advice.

Basically moving 1 rad from 1 wall to another.

Any advice to make this easy would be great!

Under the impression its:

Lock off all rads in system to stop flow
Knock off flow to boiler
Drain the radiator in question - then flip over
Make alterations - lengthen/shorten pipework
Refill system - opening and bleeding all rads - check flow
New system are self balancing is this correct - but check

Relative lives quite along way away so want to do it properly and on 1 trip, not sure what the system is, what pipework is involved, how harder job it is?

Many thanks

 

[Blake]

1. Determine possible route of pipes for new rad position, under floor, floorboards, concrete, drop down from rad above etc etc

2. Turn off boiler and controls

3. Drain down entire system, or just upstairs if the rad is located upstairs. Don't bother isolating any rads etc, just drain it all down. Turn off water to tanks if a gravity fed system

4. hang new rad and alter pipework as determined in point 1.

5. Ensure old feed to rads capped off etc

6. Add inhibitor, refill system and bleed

7. Test all rads and balance if required

No need to touch anything on the boiler

 

[Jamie Banks]

Thanks for the info

Do i have to drain the system down and put in new inhibitor thought i could just lock off and then drain down small distance of pipework then not need to refill whole system

 

[Blake]

well you could, but for the sake of a £12 bottle of inhibitor i'd drain it down. Plus if you are planning on soldering pipes you will still have water in the pipes you have not shut off.

Drain it

 

[SimonG]

You can get into more trouble with airlocks when you refill as well, as Bronzino says, full drain and costs you a bottle of inhibitor, rather than potentially running around for hours chasing air.

 

[Blackcatgas]

Drain the whole system, unless you are as big and clever as me and can snatch pipe work live with one hand. (chicks love that kind of stuff).

 

[Jamie Banks]

Bit more info its moving a rad upstairs in a bedroom - moving it from one wall to the next - its a combi system so how do you get the inhibator in without pumping and how do you stop it flowing out? How do you drain just the top rads? Easiest way to cut into chipboard? And pipes will probably have to run under floor board and through notches or holes in joists is this the best way? Want it to be easy and perfect!!

 

[desrob]

Bit more info its moving a rad upstairs in a bedroom - moving it from one wall to the next - its a combi system so how do you get the inhibator in without pumping and how do you stop it flowing out? How do you drain just the top rads? Easiest way to cut into chipboard? And pipes will probably have to run under floor board and through notches or holes in joists is this the best way? Want it to be easy and perfect!!

are you a plumber or a d.i.y.er, just interested.?

 

[Gray0689]

Can't see a plumber asking questions like that
But you never know lol

 

[AWheating]

my advise is to have a leak or cause some damage to something...... then hopefully they will never ask you for a favor again! once you do a small job for one relative more come out the woodwork...... or it might be just my family! ;(

 

[Bootys Boilers]

aw heating 100% correct ... doing work for family is the worst possible work . they exspect everything for nothing. jamie this seems a rather big task from the questions ur asking but i can talk you through this . turn the combi off at the fused spur . as the rad is up stairs drain the whole system from the boiler leaving downstairs filled whilst the system is draining vent the rads up stairs . always notch joists. easiest way to cut into chipboard is set a floorboard saw to the correct depth and cut a visual panel. when you have completed the job before you refil the system take the vent out of the rad and pour in the inhibitor .. good luck my man.. in future say no to family i know its hard

 

[desrob]

Can't see a plumber asking questions like that
But you never know lol

he has done the 6129 tec cert,does that allow you to call your self a plumber,? training agency etc sell this and state your fully qualified,whose to blame..... but one thing is obvious mr banks is proof that the 6129 does not even scratch the surface.

 

[GQuigley67]

my family seem to pay me well, I don't mind doing work for them.

No Offence mate but I wouldn't want you working in my house if you do this as a profession, alot of questions being asked.

 

[Blake]

He's a plumber and has the paper to prove it

 

[Jamie Banks]

Not a plumber - dont see how you can ever get there without starting as an apprentice. Just wanted to cover all possibilities - sell myself as a DIY er with some plumbing qualities - trying to get some work with a few plumbers to help and would rather know all the pit falls than get into difficulty - if you know the pitfalls, then you cover yourself and if they dont happen - bonus.

Thanks for the help and advice

 

[Noxer]

Hi im an apprentice, so i can see why your asking questions. Ive done the 6129 and i couldnt see myself moving a rad after completing the course all by myself but goodluck but if you want my intake on what to do. Isolate mains, turn off boiler, hose to lowest point drainoff wait 5mins or so open vent upstairs rad it should be sucking makes it drain quicker. Take rad off re hang surface run pipe and refill. Not too sure about inhibitor up 2 u i wouldnt

 

[darrenangel]

add inhibitor. it removes the oxygen from the water and so stops corrosion.

 

[Jamie Banks]

Cheers understand that this is probably easy to the trained eye but everyone has to start somewhere not bothered about alterations but am very bothered about being professional and not having water leaking everywhere.

again thanks

 

[kay-jay]

when you rehang the rad, close the valves then pipe it up, open a bleed valve or blank cap and add your inhibitor. then open valves and vent as normal. if your not confident about your pipework not leaking then i wouldn't bother with inhibitor untill you have filled up and checked, otherwise you will just lose it all on draindown again.

if its a system with a f+e tank and not a combi then just add inhibitor to f+e tank after system is filled and leak free.

KJ

 

[Paulus]

We all make mistakes when we are starting out. My advice is to take it nice and slow, think about each part of the job before you do it and print off these pages of great advice from guys so you can have all information to hand if you do come up with a problem. Good Luck, may the force be with you.

 

[Jamie Banks]

Quick update did exactly what Paulus adviced - plenty of print outs - nice and slow and think - ended up having to drain system as one on the rad valves upstairs was passing - went well and like already said you learn more from doing it than books anyday. Thanks for all advice and think its better to ask from you guys who know rather than going into it blind.

Many thanks for everything

 

[Noxer]

Got any pictures? Well done mate

 

[Paulus]

Well done Jamie, it pays to take time on a job you haven't done before. Now you know what yuo're doing the next one will be easy-peasy.