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Discuss Motorised valve position help needed. in the Central Heating Forum area at UKPlumbersForums.co.uk.

  1. LisburnWhite

    LisburnWhite New Member

    Hi, need some help in where to fit a motorised valve that will be connected to a cylinder stat to stop the hot water from over heating.
    There will be no valve on the central heating so that zone will always be open its only the hot water I will be regulating.
    I can gain access to the pipework at position A or B easily and ideally this is where I would fit the motorised valve but if I need to change the pipework then I will.
    Any help would be much appreciated. photostudio heating.jpg
     
  2. Riley

    Riley S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Why not install two valves for complete control. The way you have it you will always have heating on to heat a cylinder of water
     
  3. CBW1982

    CBW1982 GSR Top Contributor!!

    So I'm assuming there's no zone valve or cylinder stat at the moment? The reason I'm asking is you mentioned the cylinder stat - wasn't sure if you meant one already there or you are adding one. How is the whole system currently controlled?
     
  4. LisburnWhite

    LisburnWhite New Member

    Didn't want to mess about with the pipework too much but if it's just a matter on installing a motorised valve then I can do that.
    Would the valve for the central heating be on the output from boiler side I assume ?
     
  5. LisburnWhite

    LisburnWhite New Member

    There are no zone valves or cylinder stat at present that is correct. It's CH and HW together at the moment via a time clock.
     
  6. Riley

    Riley S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Fit a proper S plan system
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. ShaunCorbs

    ShaunCorbs S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Need to upgrade it due to building control rulings

    If you can get to a you can install a port valve to the rads
     
    • Dislike Dislike x 1
  8. steadyon

    steadyon Active Member

    1. Don't put it at A as it would mean putting a valve across the vent from the boiler, a safety No No.
    2. Putting it at B would be OK, but marginally better on the flow just before where the flow pipe enters the cylinder, but after the tee to the vent pipe.
    3. If you want both heating and hot water controllable, then another two port motorised valve after the pump in the flow to the radiators.
    4. If you do use two x two port valves, you will need to fit an auto bypass valve between the output from the pump and the system return.
    5. You could use a three port diverter valve, in which case you would not need the auto bypass. It would need to be after the pump and not impeding the vent pipe. Might be easier on the pipe work, but more complicated on the wiring. My own preference is 2 x 2 ports, as its easier to understand and in my experience the valves last longer.
    6. I'd suggest you use Honeywell valves. They seem to last a decent amount of time. V4043 for 2 ports, V4073 for a 3 port.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  9. Stu-B

    Stu-B Member

    If you’re not sure, get a professional in to help. Think of the summer months when you only need hot water, do you really want to be heating the rads too, that’s whats gonna happen going on your diagram. Like others said, fit an s plan, 2 valves, timer, stats and all the gubbins.
    Save chucking £50’s out of the window.
     
  10. LisburnWhite

    LisburnWhite New Member

    Thank you for the quick reply and very comprehensive.
    If I am understanding this correctly then I can put motorised valve at B (no room to fit between tee and cylinder on flow side) and this will work without changing other pipe work. However if I later want to control the CH zone separately then a motorised valve on it would require additional pipework with an auto bypass valve across output/return.
     
  11. Riley

    Riley S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Do it now. I can’t understand why you’d waste money heating your rads now when you don’t need to. And as was stated two valves makes it compliant with regs
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. SJB060685

    SJB060685 Top Contributor!!

    Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t the position of pump and vent in drawing going to/has been causing pumping over?
     
  13. LisburnWhite

    LisburnWhite New Member

    No pumping over with present setup. That was another reason I wasn't sure about position of valve and wether it might cause this.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  14. SJB060685

    SJB060685 Top Contributor!!

    If it’s not pumping over (which is a bit of a surprise) then at least it’s not drawing in air. Like others have said I would take the extra time and a little extra money to convert to an S-plan. You’ll have fully independent, thermostatic control over both load circuits which as mentioned above complies to current regs and will save you a lot of money.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
    • Like Like x 1
  15. LisburnWhite

    LisburnWhite New Member

    I think it was originally just solid fuel heating. This has been taken away and an oil fired boiler fitted hence the jumble of pipework. Works fine at present and that's why my reluctance to change it too much. Was thinking that the small amount of work to fit cylinder stat/valve would give me at least a measure of control over the hot water.
     
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