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Discuss Low hot water rate occuring constantly in unvented indirect system in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi all,

I'm hoping one of you may be able to point me in the right direction please.
I live in a flat. Have an indirect unvented system (Oso indirect 20 RI) and an Amptec Boiler.

There is also underfloor heating present - I notice no issues warming the property.

The main problem I have is with hot water to the shower. (The bathroom is situated directly behind the cupboard that the system resides within).

Often, I can start the shower and have a nice mix of heat and flow, however after less than a few minutes the heat goes, I have to turn the shower more to the hot water side and when it's working ok it warms up again with only the slightest of nudges to the left - until it starts to cool and then the nudging continues until I can't nudge no further.

However, the water flow drops considerably, sometimes to the point where to actually get something of a warm to hot shower I have to stand directly under a trickle of water.

At it's worst, the hot water is also slow running from both the kitchen taps (directly behind the bathroom) and the bathroom tap for both the sink and the bath.

Often, if I run a bath the hot water will stop for a while and then just start running again if I leave the tap open.

Cold water "pressure" appears to be fine and flows great. However, one thing I also noticed... if I open the cold water tap in the kitchen it sometimes sounds like the toilet is flushing.

When we note that the hot water is running really slowly, rightly or wrongly there's a process I complete that restores some pace to the hot water:-
  • I turn off the boiler at the fusebox.
  • I close the stopcock for the cold water inflow.
  • I open the hot water taps for kitchen, bath, sink and shower. Eventually the hot water stops flowing.
  • I then open the T & P valve and listen to gurgling for a few minutes (water does not pass into the tundish (is that the right name?).
If I continue to hold the valve open for 5 - 10 mins and then reverse the process, closing the taps, open the cold water flow, powering the boiler back on the hot water flow becomes fast again.

However, the shower flow is always worse than the taps, so even this process doesn't get a nice balance between a cold or hot shower, again, the softest of nudges to the hot side of the shower results in scolding hot when the hot water flows well so it's a constant nudge left, nudge right battle, and then adjust the longer the shower is running.

It may be that there are several issues at play therefore, and as a layperson I'm imaging some sort of trapped air being sucked in somewhere/somehow but I wouldn't have the first real clue.

So, could anybody advise.

A) what could be the reason for the hot water rate constantly decreasing and why, if I should even be following my little procedure, is the reason why it restores the flow temporarily? Say 3-4 weeks at a time.

B) Could/should I consider replacing the shower with a thermostatic type so I don't constanty have to faff with little adjustments to maintain a comfortable shower heat and flow? Or, would this not be appropriate until the balance between hot and cold flow is resolved?

If any pictures would help do let me know or if I can clarify anything better to assist.

Many thanks.
 
The simple answer you are going to get my friend is that you will need a G3 qualified engineer to come out and take a look at your cylinder These are not do it yourself fixes on these appliances as they can be very dangerous if tampered with
 
Hi Riley,

Thanks for your reply. Absolutely. I'm aware that a G3 qualified engineer would be required to perform any work. Truthfully, the system terrifies me somewhat knowing that a pressured system has the power to blow the apartment to pieces! lol.

I've absolutely no intent of attempting to fix anything, that's one of the reasons why I've lived with the issue for years.

I'm just looking to understand the problem a little having had a very bad experience with some service in the past so I can feel confident in any service suggested.

I always like to have a rudimentary understanding of something so I can switch my BS detector on when dealing with contractors after previous experience.

Thanks again.
 
That said, surely, I've no need to appoint a G3 qualified engineer if I simply wish to switch my shower valve to a thermostatic type?

As long as it's not a bad idea to do so on this sort of system obviously.
 
Totally understand where you’re coming from. However it’s difficult to say too much as I’m sure you’ll appreciate that all components need to be in place and work together to ensure that the cylinder works to its potential. I would be looking for flow to be tested, filters to be cleaned, expansion vessel to be tested
 
No quite agree but as you dont have good flow now a thermostatic shower is just going to compound the issue as it will reduce the hot or cold flow to ensure an even temperature
 
Thanks Riley, I do appreciate exactly what you're saying there and those pointers are great too.

Yeah, that's my thinking with the thermostatic shower too and I've already noticed my replacement valve idea isn't as simple as I'd first thought anyway, as my current shower is as pictured with the centre fixed into the wall also so the budget exposed thermostatic valves I'd just been looking online at wouldn't cover the mess left in the centre by replacing what I've got.

Missus won't stand for that! lol

WP_20170307_11_34_38_Pro.jpg
 
To be fair mate no shower is gonna cover all those cracks and marks. Could be time to replace that middle tile then the world is your oyster:)
 

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