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This post just for interest/comment so please only read if you have time for that (Any thoughts appreciated).
Following on from previous post of making good the hole in the wall that I made for the re-plumbing:
Loo Cold Feed and Overflow Rework / Making Good the Wall (Part 4)
. . . This post details final refit of the Loo, completed just before Easter.
From memory (as an amateur) its probably the 4th time I've ever done this.
Points of note here (please re-educate me as required):
1. Work done I assume in wrong order so I've completed all the decorating before the loo re-fit (as the space is so tight)
2. Used silicon spray in the floor waste pipe to make it easy to fit the new waste elbow. Also dipped the other pan end of the waste elbow into hot water for a few mins first so easy to fit, and make sure inner and outer seals in right place.
3. Once pan pushed onto new waste, fit the pan floor screws (measure screw position first from back wall to make finding the holes easy). Don't over-tighten the floor screws (See note below about silicon round the pan)
4. I always go for a galvanised close coupling kit even though they do corrode in time (plastic ones don't look strong enough to me). I do though always put plenty of grease on the coupling kit bolts so you can get them off one fine day.
5. The assembly order I use rightly or wrongly is (working vertically downwards)
6. Marked the tank and pan centrelines with a marker pen before dropping the tank onto the pan (to make it easy to get them lined up)
7. Reconnect the plumbing, and fill the tank before final tightening of the close coupling bolts (don't overtighten) and the tank wall screws
8. When happy all ok, clear silicon round the pan where it sits on the floor. This makes sure no water gets in and rots the floor around the screw holes, and perhaps as usefully gets the pan more securely fixed to the floor than just the pan screws alone.
Lastly for interest, a photo of the scrapped Yorkshire fitting (not leaking) that was originally inside the wall at the intersection of the left hand and back walls.
So I guess other joints behind walls in the house may be similar.
Looks like they added extra solder - technically probably wrong, but I guess that lets you know you have the joint hot enough, when soldering in a tricky location.
I assume most of the corrosion (more behind the joint not shown in photo) comes from the flux that hasn't been wiped off after soldering, rather than the sulphur in the breeze blocks. Wiping off the flux won't be particularly easy when the pipe is right against the blockwork, also in this case at a wall intersection.
So - all done I hope, and many thanks everyone for all the help.
Cheers,
Roy.
Following on from previous post of making good the hole in the wall that I made for the re-plumbing:
Loo Cold Feed and Overflow Rework / Making Good the Wall (Part 4)
. . . This post details final refit of the Loo, completed just before Easter.
From memory (as an amateur) its probably the 4th time I've ever done this.
Points of note here (please re-educate me as required):
1. Work done I assume in wrong order so I've completed all the decorating before the loo re-fit (as the space is so tight)
2. Used silicon spray in the floor waste pipe to make it easy to fit the new waste elbow. Also dipped the other pan end of the waste elbow into hot water for a few mins first so easy to fit, and make sure inner and outer seals in right place.
3. Once pan pushed onto new waste, fit the pan floor screws (measure screw position first from back wall to make finding the holes easy). Don't over-tighten the floor screws (See note below about silicon round the pan)
4. I always go for a galvanised close coupling kit even though they do corrode in time (plastic ones don't look strong enough to me). I do though always put plenty of grease on the coupling kit bolts so you can get them off one fine day.
5. The assembly order I use rightly or wrongly is (working vertically downwards)
- Syphon
- Rubber sealing washer
- Just a hint of silicon on the tank before inserting the syphon with the washer (despite the manufacturers comment this not required)
- (Tank)
- Re-used the old rubber washer under the tank as the bottom of the tank isn't completely flat, and I don't want to overtighten anything to make the coupling kit sit flat.
- Locking nut that comes with the Syphon (don't overtighten)
6. Marked the tank and pan centrelines with a marker pen before dropping the tank onto the pan (to make it easy to get them lined up)
7. Reconnect the plumbing, and fill the tank before final tightening of the close coupling bolts (don't overtighten) and the tank wall screws
8. When happy all ok, clear silicon round the pan where it sits on the floor. This makes sure no water gets in and rots the floor around the screw holes, and perhaps as usefully gets the pan more securely fixed to the floor than just the pan screws alone.
Lastly for interest, a photo of the scrapped Yorkshire fitting (not leaking) that was originally inside the wall at the intersection of the left hand and back walls.
So I guess other joints behind walls in the house may be similar.
Looks like they added extra solder - technically probably wrong, but I guess that lets you know you have the joint hot enough, when soldering in a tricky location.
I assume most of the corrosion (more behind the joint not shown in photo) comes from the flux that hasn't been wiped off after soldering, rather than the sulphur in the breeze blocks. Wiping off the flux won't be particularly easy when the pipe is right against the blockwork, also in this case at a wall intersection.
So - all done I hope, and many thanks everyone for all the help.
Cheers,
Roy.
