Kingspan HP200 30 tube install

[Gray0689]

I'll post a pic of what the pipework should look like I did this one this morning you can see the proper way it's done

 

[Gray0689]

 

[SimonG]

Nice job. The canines gonads.

 

[Gray0689]

Cheers simon

 

[SimonG]

Did you do your own leadwork or buy it in?

 

[Gray0689]

No mate we bye them from a great lead man near us

 

[markfxy]

The diameter of the lead outlet needs to be bigger to allow the insulation to butt up to the tee apart from that nice job

 

[Gray0689]

The insulation is on pipe already just needed pushed up and it's a perfect fit

 

[PlumbBobBob]

what was the outcome of the work on your roof edwardk ?

 

[edwardk]

Thanks guys... we arranged that the guy doing the work would come on 26th May (after his holiday) but he didn't turn up. Since then I've had a text saying he's having the lead made up... but nothing apart frmo that. I left a message to say we needed a start and a finish time for this work but he hasn't got back to me. Last did any work on 13th May....

I see what you mean about the leadwork now Alex, thanks for the picture, very useful !

 

[Gray0689]

No problem mate keep us informed

 

[Gray0689]

Ed just out of interest how much did that cost you?

 

[ecowarm]

Any update on this Ed.

Guernsey mmmmmmm it is nice at this time of year?

Can you put me and the misses up i'll come and sort it out????:smart:

 

[edwardk]

Right -he has graced me with his presence this week.
Looks better but I had questions about the following:

1 - should the cable come out of the other lead piece and direct into the socket on the manifold rather than coming out of the left hand lead work then running across the exposed roof (ie it should run inside the roof) ?

2 - he's used silicon to seal the lead work. I'm guessing that this will burn off as it is in direct contact with the stainless steel pipework. I would imagine that you take the heatproof black insulation right up to the manifold connections. Maybe he's done this because the leadwork pipe diameter is a little large or/and he's not got enough heatproof insulation ? Seems wrong to me...

3 - There is a loop (s-shape) of spare pipework inside the roof space. (3rd pic I think) I would have cut this pipework so that it didn't have so much slack. Do you think he's done this cos he can't be arsed to cut and then rejoin/make a new connection on the end that goes in to the left hand manifold connection ? Or is there a valid reason.

Any comments welcome
Ed

("Completing the job in a timely manner" - failed on that count too...it's really put me out and inconvenienced me on getting the bathroom plasterboarded and tiled - I've had a mate lined up to help and this window is slimming down to nothing. Right pain.)

 

[Gray0689]

Looks better but as you said still not tidy inside
Yes the probe should come out nearest probe socket that will ble and flap about in wind and I'd say break in time
Not a big issue with exess pipe jusy lazy and no pride in work
And silicone no good needs insulation through lead and sealed with heatproop silicone around the insulation
If the probe is coming out the wrong hole I'd be checking the flow and return to pumping station in case he mixed them up
Hope you didn't pay him yet

 

[Gray0689]

Why has he not commisioned them and put tubes in??

 

[markfxy]

Judging by his original installation he's obviously not installed solar before therefore he wont have a solar filling and flushing station there's no way you'll get the air out of those pipes without it, I can see you're going to have major problems with airlocks unless that pipework is tidied.

 

[unguided1]

I agree that externaly it looks a whole lot better externely, but as has already been said internely it still comes up short.

 

[ecowarm]

Agree with the above posts, untidy and insulation should go through the lead slate

 

[edwardk]

He turned up on Thursday and Friday with an electrician.
I asked him to do the following :
1 - put the insulation all the way through the lead slate to the manifold.
2 - put heat proof silicon around the lead slate (to fill in the gap where the pipework comes through)
3 - move the cable to the other side (so it wasn't exposed on the roof).
4 - cut the slack pipework so the run is a little shorter and tidier.

He has just taken out the old silicon and put new heat proof silicon in (orange looking?) but hasn't passed the insulation through the lead slate nor moved the cable.
He has just unbent the pipework inside the roof and made a right angle out of it. I asked why he didn't cut it to the right length and he said that that was the length the pipe came in at and in order to cut it he'd have to hire a cutter and jointer tool... (ie just plain lazy in my book).

So he's done the bare minimum to get the roof area work done.

Can anyone tell me why you pass the insulation through the lead slate ? Will the heat proof silicon be ok or is there a known issue with not passing the insulation through the lead slate ? ie should I insist that he does this?

Down by the pump station...
I have checked the readout on the digital display and it's reading 29C. Is this about right?
At the moment I have a 300 litre heat store with only the solar coil working (?! I hope - the plumber hasn't phoned me but it does look like he's left a bill/invoice).
I'm waiting for my electrician to connect the heating element (18kw) side of things.

The pipes at the top of the pump station feel hot.

Is the digital read out the temperature of the panel or the temperature of the tank?

He's put the white expansion vessel sticking out right in the middle of the shed - I asked him to move it to the side so I can use more space in the shed. Are there any rules to the placing of this expansion vessel? Does it need to be lower than the pump station? Should the pipe run to it be kept to a minimum?

The rest of the pump station pipework is a bit of a mess if you ask me - in terms of layout.
I would have pushed it further to the left and had the pipework a bit neater but then again it's not me doing the work - a professional is

Well - any advice?

 

[Gray0689]

Sounds a mess IMHO
Have you been waving good weather? As 29c is not high

There is 2 temp 1 is at the flow side of colector probe in pocket pump symbol will flash up on controller
2 is at bottom of cylinder will flash up when you move the controller

 

[eaton]

Quite honestly don't pay get someone comptent in to sort and deduct that cost off his bill.

 

[edwardk]

Pump station area (above)
Looks like there is a loose connection on the top right hand pipework as I can see water around the base of one brass nut.
The temp on the pump is reading about 60C and on the digital readout about 30C.
There is a black wire coming out of the bottom of the digital readout and this ends in what looks like a thermometer/probe. This is just sitting loose in the top solar stat pocket.
Should it be in the bottom pocket?
Should it be stuck in with some silicon or something?


Inside roof space (above)
Stainless steel pipework is actually touching the leadwork - will it get hot enough to burn it ? Also very close to roof timbers... I guess that's why you put the insulation all the way through.
He's just filled the outside with heatproof silicon and I can see the old non-heatproof silicon when I look inside the roofspace.
Am guessing that the probe wiring will burn through too?


On the roof.
Looks like the cables are just zip tied in a couple of places.... one winter storm and that's going to be flapping all over the place.

 

[Gray0689]

It looks a mess
Probe should be at bottom and yes bit of silicone to hold in
He has used all the off cuts to connect everything just a lazy bad plumber I'd get rid and get a decent man in to sort it out
It will lose the pressure if you have a leak and get full of air and cost you to refill with glycol

 

[edwardk]

I've email him a link to this post and I've asked him to sort out the issues with the install - hopefully he'll read it and understand the issues I have with his work.

I think he's got a few more HP200's to install locally so hopefully he can learn the right way of doing it for their sakes - guess I get all the headaches being the first one...

 

[edwardk]

I offered to help him (his apprentice is off ill) and could have helped him on Mon/Tues/Weds. He promised to turn up today but a 'no show'....

Can someone answer why the insulation has to go all the way through the lead slate ?

Thanks,
Ed

 

[eaton]

im sorry but im losing patience with you, please ditch the ***** and get someone in who is qualified, if you want to stick with this muppet you deserve all you get, I cant believe after what theyve done and all these posts youve let him carry on

 

[Jimbob]

Haaaaaaa!

I read about this on another thread, it's become legendary. The install started off looking terrible, looking a bit better but not great.

It is hard getting the stainless to look neat, but looks like your man could have put alot more effort in.

Here's a one I did about 2 months ago.

If you use this slates, you can butt the insulation up either side of it, and they have a separate hole for sensor wire.

I would take people advice, this chap has no intention or maybe not capable in doing a 'proper job'. Get somebody else in to finish.

 

[Gray0689]

Looks good but don't like the slates to be honest

 

[ecowarm]

Just leads slates are better and will last a lot longer

 

[Jimbob]

Well everybody does it their own way, I like the solardec flashings very much, had one split but they replaced it.

 

[BLOD]

Jimbob, is that an air bleed point in the elbow in the photo ?

where do you get them ?

 

[SimonG]

Looks like its from a towel rail.

 

[BLOD]

ha ha - excellent idea, but not sure how customer will react when told they have to get up on roof to dry their towels !

 

[SimonG]

ha ha - excellent idea, but not sure how customer will react when told they have to get up on roof to dry their towels !

Wouldn't be that keen getting up there to vent them myself!