Ideal Combi 24 - F1 error code but system still showing pressure

[efc84]

About 2 weeks ago i got up in the morning and found the boiler was not working and the display said 'F1'. I Googled the code and what i read was easy no problem, the gauge was showing 0 pressure, so open up black and blue values until pressure rose to 1.5 bar, closed them and system fired back up.

Over the last 2 weeks the same thing has happened nearly most mornings but the pressure gauge always seems to be over 1 bar and not at zero, to remove the error code and have the boiler working again i need to turn the black and blue handles to open (usually open for a minute) and then i get the 0 and the boiler fires up and i close the taps.

Anyone know why i'm getting this F1 code even though the gauge appears to be at lest 1 bar? Am i doing something wrong in trying to fix the problem?

Any help appreciated!

 

[AMGasServices]

Mi say the pressure guage between 1 -1.5
Does it loose pressure ?

 

[efc84]

Nope, it seems to go no lower than 1 bar and no higher than 2 bar?

 

[ponte_red]

it sounds like the guage is blocked and you are loosing the pressure, but its not showing up. or its reading wrong...... if not the pressure sensor in the boiler could also be blocked, but putting a bit extra pressure in is enough to make it run

 

[anz]

What you should have really done instead of refilling the system every morning and possibly causing more damage is call a Gas Engineer out, who would have found the cause of the problem and fixed it.

What your doing by refilling it all the time, is really a short term solution and the real underlying problem needs to be found and fixed.

What's your location? Someone local here might be able to assist.

 

[efc84]

I might sound cheap but we have not got the money right now for boiler repairs so was hoping to find a fix without the need to call someone out.

The boiler was installed in October 2010 and from what i read the ideal combi 24 only get 2 years warranty We have only been in the house since September last year. I think the company who fitted the system are called Eaga as their sticker is on the front of the boiler.

 

[efc84]

i called an engineer out and he said the gauge was broke and there might be a small leak in the system. He fitted a new gauge and put some sort of glue into the system which he said 'should' plug any small leaks. The gauge worked fine for 2 weeks, but now it keeps getting stuck again around 1 bar and the screen is showing F1 again?

Anyone have any ideas why the gauge is not working again? Could it be a fault with the internal sensor like someone mentioned above?

He did say to me before he went that if the system was still losing pressure he will have to start pulling up the laminate flooring to see if there is a leak. Is there a better solution than pulling up the laminate because i really don't want to have to start losing the flooring to try and find a leak?

Please help

 

[bewsh]

It sounds like you're system is full of sludge, which is blocking up the capillary tube to the pressure gauge.

The pressure loss may not be due to pipework/radiators mind. Did the engineer check the expansion vessel? Is the copper pipe outside dripping at all?

 

[efc84]

I'm not sure if he checked the expansion vessel, he did not mention it. He did check the copper pipe outside and there was no sign of leaking.

What should I do?

Will it be expensive to clean the capillary tube if that is the problem?

 

[Johnyboyc2k]

had a few ideal logics problems with the heat exchangers weaping inside which you will not see as it runs out through the condense trap and out through the over flow defo worth while mentioning or getting installer to investgate .. had a few that are over 2 years old but (bless ideal) they did come out and repair under warranty ??

 

[bewsh]

cleaning the capillary tube won't solve the problem, and they are quite difficult to clean as they are only about 1mm internal diameter. The reason it could be blocking up is due to sludge floating around your system, caused by the radiators deteriating from the inside. Really you need to have the whole system flushed out to resolve that problem. But that won't solve the pressure problem that you're having.

 

[bewsh]

had a few ideal logics problems with the heat exchangers weaping inside which you will not see as it runs out through the condense trap and out through the over flow defo worth while mentioning or getting installer to investgate .. had a few that are over 2 years old but (bless ideal) they did come out and repair under warranty ??

That could be a possibility. What you could do to test this is check to see if the condense pipe is continuously running/dripping water when the boiler is turned off.

 

[efc84]

Where would I find the condense pipe? Is it the overflow pipe? Would this water be clear or muddy?

It is funny that this boiler is just over 2 years old (oct 2010 installed).

Do the ideal 24 boilers have 2 or 3 year warranties?

 

[efc84]

If its the heat exchanger is it going to be a costly job? Should I contact ideal? Do you know how long their warranty is? We only moved in last September so I don't have much info about the boiler, only that it was installed in October 2010

 

[Johnyboyc2k]

ideals warranty is only about 2 years i think ..
think its a good idea to get an installer in ! Mention about issolating the radiators from the boiler for a day or two using the issolaters under the boiler / monitoring the pressure would confirm if the leak is on the system or on the boiler ( if it drops it proves its the boiler and not the system) . if like this issolated it still looses pressure and the copper pipe to outside from the boiler is still dry it very well may be heat ex...

 

[Johnyboyc2k]

think ideal is 2 years defo worth mentinoing to a sutible quiallifed installer ,,