hot water cylinder, which connector?

[1animal1]

Hi, I'm after a bit of advice on this part please. I'm looking to replace the connection to the lower central heating point on my cylinder. The bolt itself measures 1 1/2" with 22mm pipe coming out of it - presume also that it's a bolt with a male thread.

Can anyone confirm if this part will fit? JGHSP250 speedfit cylinder connector.

I am looking to use 2 speed fit elbows and new 22mm copper pipe to make the joint up but need to confirm the above part before stripping anything down.



Thanks

Tim

 

[1animal1]

 

[Chalked]

Hi
It will only need taking apart, the union and cylinder fave cleaning up. Then make a Ptfe washer by making it into a thin strand and wrapping around the copper Union. Use a bit if jet blue on this and put back together. Far better than speedfit!

 

[1animal1]

Thanks chalked.... I was going to get a plumber in but I'm a keen and generally successful diy'er (hope I haven't jinxed myself .

The joint is in a really tight place and I only need it to last a couple of years before the tank comes out. Trouble is the speed fit elbows won't go on the existing pipe coming from the cylinder due to a large collar, my only option is to replace that bolt with either a compression fitting or speed fit

 

[Best]

Thanks chalked.... I was going to get a plumber in but I'm a keen and generally successful diy'er (hope I haven't jinxed myself .

The joint is in a really tight place and I only need it to last a couple of years before the tank comes out. Trouble is the speed fit elbows won't go on the existing pipe coming from the cylinder due to a large collar, my only option is to replace that bolt with either a compression fitting or speed fit

Trust me, that ain't a "really tight place"! There looks loads of space there. Plumbers are used to awkward places. You probably should just do as advised.

 

[1animal1]

I've had to chip the skirting boards away so I can get a splice in to cut that downward facing pipe, I'll then have to work at maximum reach as there is a pump and 3 22mm pipes where I held the camera to take that picture. It's tight enough plus you can see from the burn marks on the wall that it's been attempted more than once, not mentioning the copious amounts of solder. No offence but for me to shell out £50-£100 on a plumber when I could end up with the same problem....

I have the tools, a splice, jointing compound and a history of fitting out full bathrooms, kitchens etc. The system is a low pressure vented type - I'm sure two speedfit elbows fitted to copper will hold out until we can afford a relocated unvented.

Can anyone help with the size of this nut please?

Thanks

Tim

 

[SimonG]

I'll be the third one. Get a plumber or you might need a new cylinder sooner than you think.

 

[stevetheplumber]

could be the cylinderwall conection thats leaking already

 

[1animal1]

Apologies for being sceptical, but why will a new nut and new copper piece not suffice? I can and have drained the system down twice now without issue, furthermore I've replaced a pump gate valve, installed a drain tap and fitted new valves successfully. What is making you think that I am not capable of this? Genuine question

 

[1animal1]

Hi Steve, I've already checked that, it's 100% the joint closest the wall. There is no dampness near the nut at all. It appears completely sound... However I do understand that the area can corrode quite easily, is this why the recommendation from so many for a plumber, so the nut isn't disturbed?

 

[Chalked]

The advice that has been given is how a professional plumber would fix it. But seen as though you are going to do it in speedfit, the cylinder thread is 1 inch parralell thread.

JG Speedfit Female Cylinder Adaptor 22 X 1" - 22CFA

 

[Best]

Apologies for being sceptical, but why will a new nut and new copper piece not suffice? I can and have drained the system down twice now without issue, furthermore I've replaced a pump gate valve, installed a drain tap and fitted new valves successfully. What is making you think that I am not capable of this? Genuine question

It is because the job is fairly simple to a plumber. I know I could replace that all in copper with any joint soldered or brass compression easily.

 

[1animal1]

Thanks chalked, much appreciated

I would go with a professional job if the repair was to be more long term, it just seems like a false economy given that this cylinder will be relocated and an unvented fitted, making this particular bit of pipework entirely redundant.

I really do appreciate both of your help on this, thank you

 

[jtsplumbing]

Why not re do it with copper fittings ? speed-fit will be quite bulky , remove the leaking section, make up another new piece using copper fittings, replace 22mm olive on tank fitting, if you want to use push fit look at tec-tight fittings not as big & bulky as S/fit.

 

[1animal1]

Hi JTS, I think I'd have to replace the tank fitting as the exiting pipe is in a horrible state. Wouldn't a new tank fitting require soldering a new piece of 22mm?

 

[jtsplumbing]

No the tank fitting is not leaking, you could cause more problems trying to remove it, just undo the brass nut , cut out leaking section of pipe, all you need to do upon reassembling is to fit a new 22mm Olive, If you can solder fittings I would remove that faulty section, make up a new section it would be easy to do once removed, then reconnect further back along the side of the wall where it was more accessible.

 

[1animal1]

Oh i see! So upon undoing the nut, the pipe is connected via an olive compression connection? I have only seen one brass version of this nut other than the speedfit and it had a small piece of copper pipe attached (collar) ready to solder a new piece into it. So I presumed I had to go for the speedfit cylinder nut or learn how to solder copper pipe :willy_nilly:....

What your saying is, undo the nut - cut the pipe where it drops down into the floor (lift the whole piece out) leaving enough for a push copper bend to fit onto the piece going into the floor to run level with the cylinder connection, then run a piece from the cylinder with a new olive fitting a new bend to run to the other - and cutting a 22mm piece to connect the two bends...

 

[Chalked]

No the tank fitting is not leaking, you could cause more problems trying to remove it, just undo the brass nut , cut out leaking section of pipe, all you need to do upon reassembling is to fit a new 22mm Olive, If you can solder fittings I would remove that faulty section, make up a new section it would be easy to do once removed, then reconnect further back along the side of the wall where it was more accessible.

Sorry. But that is 100% a cylinder Union. Not a compression fitting.

To the op. If you are going to replace the cylinder for a pressurised unit in a years time. Why not just catch the small amount of water for now.
Or get a friend to recommend a plumber who will sort it very easily. Probably cost £40-£60 depending where you are. You are going to spend £20 on materials to fix. It's not much more for peace of mind.

 

[1animal1]

Easy to say when I have a 4 bed to renovate/make habitable and pay for a wedding next year

I really appreciate the advice, this forum has been invaluable in the short time I've been here.

So the nut doesn't have an olive behind it and the only solution is for the pre discussed speedfit nut and pipe... if I were to attack myself?

The other consideration of leaving it simply won't fit my OCD it's currently leaking a third of a plastic cup a day so presume I'm at higher risk of it bursting if I leave it?

 

[jtsplumbing]

Sorry only took a quick look, but you can still reuse it (Unsolder) or just get a new one and still as B4 replace that section of pipe

 

[1animal1]

Won't i need to solder with a new one as the new ones I've seen come with a collar to slide in a new pipe (to solder).

I don't have soldering gear or experience doing that I'm afraid.

 

[jtsplumbing]

Whatever you desire to do good luck with it, if your lacking confidence to do it, do the prep work and call a plumber to do the pipe work , cant see it costing that much.

 

[1animal1]

Thanks JTS. I've found another online plumbing firm that was able to supply the joint 50% cheaper, and a 1 metre piece of 22mm copper for £4 - should cover this job for £15

Then onto the next one - converting the rads to 10mm from 8mm :toilet:

 

[jtsplumbing]

Any reason why you cant do it in small bore ? micro-bore can cause problems if not done right !

 

[1animal1]

The carpets are staying down for now and until then i'm really not able to get to the main (assumed) 22mm manifold going through the floor. Also because some of it is in the hallway which has new laminate laid by the previous owner. I'll get around to it as i really don't like this small bore stuff - it's a massive PITA when refilling the rads, they take ages! My old 5 (4 very large) sealed system took less than 15 minutes to refill, this 13 rad vented system took me 2 hours not including purging the pump which had air trapped in the cylinder side - school boy error setting that side going first when restarting i imagine :behead:

 

[gassafe]

Sounds like you like to keep re-doing work for the sake of it lol

 

[1animal1]

I just like reliability and the 8mm seems to get really bad reviews, plus it looks horrible! (not mentioning the missus lethal hoovering knocking it) - I have noticed in the short time that i have been in this house how long the rads take to warm up and presume that these smaller pipes have to make it less efficient in the long term? Surely that has to be the case when most of the 8mm fed rads are some of the furthest away in the system...

 

[1animal1]

Purists, close your eyes....

 

[Best]

Well it's taken you four days to do it, but you got there! :smile:
You could have just as easily done it in brass and copper fittings, because if you can get that plastic etc together, you can do it in all metal.
Thanks for getting back and letting us know you are sorted!

 

[Rickster123]

Get some lagging on it quick before anyone sees it!:smartass2:

If it's not leaking and you're happy with it fair play to ya.

 

[1animal1]

Cheers chaps!

I must admit I was putting it off, easily done as this place is keeping me extremely busy. I took it all apart to find the elbow wouldn't fit, so ended up having to chip an inch out of the wall, luckily that wall will eventually be boarded and tiled as I make the airing cupboard into the a double shower. Now to drain it all down again and remove some rads for cleaning and Plastering.

Thanks for all the help so far

Ps I really do need to learn to solder. The push fit copper was an option but I was more worried about not being able to remove the joints upon fitting.

Tim