Search the forum,

Discuss Help please : Combi Boiler without PRV pipes in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
R

rhino-wayne

Hi all, could anyone help with some advice on this one?:)

I have been asked to do a few general maintenance jobs on a friends house (They now live abroad & are renting it out).

I'm NOT a plumber or Gas safe registered, happy with soldering copper pipe work etc, but want to stay safe & legal.

I noticed 2 items with their boiler:

1/ The plastic condensate pipe work is connected to the waste pipe that also services the washing machine waste. Is that set up OK?

2/ More importantly the PRV pipe is NOT connected to anything & just terminates at base of boiler !!:eek: , now I now that this should ideally be piped/vented to outside with 90' bend to ground level (away from people pets etc)

What are my options with the PRV pipe work?

Can I connect to the nearby plastic waste pipe that serves washing machine & condensate?

I'm guessing I just use a compression joint to connect further piping to the small bit of PRV pipe under the boiler (seems an insane place to try to solder a joint!!! Kabooom! LOL)

The nearest out side wall is about 4-5m away & will require drilling thru' 2 walls (cupboard & exterior)

Can I use plastic piping / pushfit connectors for some or all of the connections? Or only copper?

Thanks in advance
 
the prv needs to terminate where you can see if there is any discharge. i think if you put a tundish in the run below the boiler you could be ok to terminate the pipework in the plastic waste pipe but i stand to be corrected by peeps with more knowledge than me.
 
Thx steveb,

Yep, I read a few threads about fitting a tundish, might try that route.
hope I can get a few more answers before I head off to the hardware store
 
yep i agree with steveb its ok to use a visable tundish
 
Thx plumbingsucks (great ID!! LOL)

Been looking at tundish info/photos, my only concern is that the tenants may dislike due to concerns of "exploding hot water" coming out of the tundish sides and on to the washing machine/people in the area.

The tundish must be visible but what happens when the PRV vents? a small trickle/stream/blast of water?
 
it should be only a trickle unless the prv is sticking until there is enough pressure to force it open. which shouldn't happen if serviced regularly.
 
It would be a blast of water, they are set at 3 bar incase too much pressure builds up, hence pressure relief valve. The tundish idea is not something I've seen before and you should check with manufacturers if not sure, I suppose it would be ok but why not just drill through the wall and solder an elbow? Regarding it blasting out of the tundish all over the kitchen, the tundish would have to be sized correctly, 15mm both sides would mean it will spill out, you need 15mm at the top and as big a size you can get out of it. Leave a fair distance from outlet of tundish to any elbows etc.
 
dont do anything you are not competent person you can do more harm then help !!!

are you sure is not regular boiler ????
 
Careful with condensate into washing macine wastes . Recently seen one where 1 1/2" waste frozen outside . Wash M/C pumped waste back up boiler condensate , new fan and PCB !!!!!!
 
Hi all thanks for all your helpful advice.

FYI I'll go with the copper all the way to the outside, seems to be best & safest option.

Safegasinstal. Yep it's a worchester bosch combi..
The house "plumbing" is a bit poor just plastic & pushfits with no isolation valves anywhere ! augh!! (anyway they got 8 isolation valves installed today;-)

Toddyplumb. thx good point, I may reroute the condensate too!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to Help please : Combi Boiler without PRV pipes in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

Copper pipes, I think its fair to say, is not what it used to be, the copper is getting thin while the cost is going up. Meanwhile, plastic Pushfit seems to be getting better and better, cost and convenience was always better, but now the quality is to, have we reached a stage where plastic will...
Replies
2
Views
213
I was stupid enough not to check the position of the pipes under the tiles when installing a toilet and drilled right through the center of a 16 mm copper water pipe. I exposed the pipe by removing a ~30cm section of the plastic sleeve and a ~10 cm section of the pipe around the hole. Several...
Replies
0
Views
159
Hello all, I’m replacing a concrete paving slab patio in the back yard. The original patio used 50mm deep concrete slabs on hardcore & sand. I’m planning to pour a 100mm deep concrete patio on 100mm hardcore. In order to achieve the same final height to line up with the rest of the patio, I...
Replies
6
Views
188
We are from Alberta, and I own an electrical company. I have been asked by a BC Mechanical P. Eng. to install an emergency STOP button at the man-door to the boiler room. It's intent is to 'halt' the operation of the boilers in the room should there be an emergency. He is demanding that I do...
Replies
4
Views
188
Hi, Can anyone advise as to why the cold water to my bathroom keeps airlocking? This originally happened about 12 months ago and has happened 3-4 times since. It’s an upstairs bathroom, fed from a tank in the attic. The tank is about 8 Meters away and feeds a bath, sink and toilet. The tank...
Replies
9
Views
283
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock