Search the forum,

Discuss Copper coils, ok for under floor heating runs? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Messages
15
I need a bit of info on copper coiled pipe, I'm about to run in new radiator pipes downstairs in my house, it's got raised wooden floors with about 12" to the concrete slab, it needs to be copper or rodent proof as I live in the woods and we have mice around! Can the rolls of copper coils be used for this job, do I need inserts to use compression fittings to stop it being crushed? ie the rad valves?
I'll be running them all back to 1 or 2 heating manifolds as I definitely don't want any joints below the floor as we're fitting solid wood flooring ( I've been TOLD it's GOT to be solid wood flooring....:oops:)
I've got a week off work so want to crack on with this little job....
Any help and advice will be appreciated.
Rob
 
I’d avoid microbore as it may not carry sufficient heat , kinks and blocks easily. Nothing wrong with soldered joints underfloor if done properly
 
Not microbore!
I've done this upstairs in the eaves for the bedrooms so don't mind soldering joints but I don't want any under a floor I can't get up without destroying it!
IMAG0127.jpg
What are the best options?
 
Although copper is sold in coils it is not as soft as you think don't think you would be able to get the tight bends and also the lengths you require once uncoiled it stiffens up so bends would need to be done on a machine
 
So what do you mean if not microbore??[/QUOTE

Sorry I thought I put the size in the original post! It's 15mm with a bit of 22 for the manifold feeds.

Most robust is probably a soldered copper joint, they have stood the test of time and are rodent proof. All done properly and pressure tested what are your worries?
If you are not confident enough in your soldering ability, pay a plumber to do it..

I'm confident in my ability but don't want one leak to wreak a very expensive floor trying to finding it!
 
depending on if your system is sealed or open vented , if sealed , and depending on the size of your rads I would go with 10mm microbore .
Massive rads on open vent system = no
 
I've found Emmeti MLCP and they do the manifolds I'm thinking of, it's got an aluminium core not sure if that's rodent proof but better than straight plastic.
No underfloor joints either!
townfanjon what is considered a massive rad?
It's a vented system with 12 existing rads on the ground floor. Probably be 10 or 11 when I'm done .
 
It’s not mouse proof
 
Agree Shaun MLCP is def not rodent proof.
Do it properly with 15 pipe. Remember to lag it properly but make sure you properly pressure test it PRIOR to putting down your floor.
 
Maybe I'm just over thinking it! A parallel run of 22 with T offs to each rad would probably be easier. What's the best way to:
A. Get lengths of copper pipe under the floors in long sections.
B. Do a proper pressure test?
I've got a dry pressure tester that I used on the upstairs pipes but should it be done wet?
 

Reply to Copper coils, ok for under floor heating runs? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

Hi, basic question, any insight much appreciated. Looking to have an outdoor tap in my front porch fed from 15mm pex coming up from suspended floor. Pic 1 is inside porch, pex temporarily clipped to give an idea of pipe placement (ignore shoddy blockwork of booted cowboy builder!), Pic 2 is...
Replies
6
Views
187
Copper pipes, I think its fair to say, is not what it used to be, the copper is getting thin while the cost is going up. Meanwhile, plastic Pushfit seems to be getting better and better, cost and convenience was always better, but now the quality is to, have we reached a stage where plastic will...
Replies
2
Views
146
Hi, Can anyone advise as to why the cold water to my bathroom keeps airlocking? This originally happened about 12 months ago and has happened 3-4 times since. It’s an upstairs bathroom, fed from a tank in the attic. The tank is about 8 Meters away and feeds a bath, sink and toilet. The tank...
Replies
9
Views
229
The fittings below are for a mixer bar attached to a self contained shower. i.e not a wall. The attaching screws have snapped. I could get two new brackets, dismantle that existing one and start again or I could try and re attach via those screws, removing the broken ones from the plate and wall...
Replies
0
Views
88
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock