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Discuss Changing rusted radiator in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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The radiator is corroded on the bottom right underside which is slowly dripping.

Both valves are manually operated and I have I closed them both. I've got a like for like radiator im hoping to change it to.

The is no drain off valve with this radiator which is downstairs feed off a combi.

When the heating is on the radiator doesn't heat up so I suspect it's isolated, but not 100% sure.

I have put a radiator key to bleed hoping water to sip away from the rust at base where there is a small hole. However water is squirting out of bleed valve. I would expect if it was isolated it would not be Soding water out of the bleed valve. I did this to see if it was dead.

Any ideas or input. The way I'm going is full drain down but then again there is no drain off on the radiator which is lowest part of house.

Thanks in advance for any information.

Regards
Ross

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Hi
Probably just residual pressure in the rad. If the valves are turned off properly, ot will stop after a short while.
 
There's still pressure in the rad so water will still come out grab a container and vent via bleed should stop within a few mins
 
I've had a litre of water come out so far. I will go back to it tomorrow and come back with progress.

Thanks both.
 
Is it particularly cold in that room some thermostat valves have a frost setting
 
Re. Snake oil:

1. If its a sealed system that is very clean, and rarely if ever needs the pressure topping up, you can probably get away without it.

2. If its a traditional open system with F&E tank, you have no idea how much air gets into the water via the F&E. If there's a slight leak you won't know about it and freshly aerated water is constantly added to the system. Inhibitor will reduce the impact until it becomes too diluted. Should be checked (difficult), or more easily changed every 2 to 4 years.
 

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