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Is there any preferred method of connecting tails to a cast iron rad as opposed to a steel one? Manufacturer says use LSX, never tried this stuff.
Thanks
 
Yes there was

Loctite 577 for me
 
I made a rig up to pressure test the rads before I attempt installation and the only way I could get a seal was with boss white and hemp. Never tried the the LS-X but using ptfe on its own failed. I do have Loctite 55 but not 577 which I am assuming is similar to LS-X.
 
I made a rig up to pressure test the rads before I attempt installation and the only way I could get a seal was with boss white and hemp. Never tried the the LS-X but using ptfe on its own failed. I do have Loctite 55 but not 577 which I am assuming is similar to LS-X.

You had it leak with 55?
 

Boss White and correct amount of ptfe.
Although I use V2 Lube paste for most jobs nowadays, the Boss White is one of the best pastes for joints on threads to radiators or other heating system female or male joints.
Not for potable though
 
Is there any preferred method of connecting tails to a cast iron rad as opposed to a steel one? Manufacturer says use LSX, never tried this stuff.
Thanks


Hello Bogart,

I advise You to NOT use Fernox LSX for any connection on a Heating system.

The reason being if any of the mastic gets into the pipework it solidifies into small lumps which travel around the system and can find their way into the small orifices in Thermostatic Radiator valves blocking them - obviously resulting in the Radiator not working.

Screwing in threaded Radiator valve tails would be the ideal circumstance for some of the LSX mastic to be pushed into the Radiator in small `blobs` which would then be circulated around the system and possibly get stuck in a TRV orifice.

I do use Fernox LSX mastic on various Plumbing tasks and it is `good stuff` BUT - not on Heating systems !

Perhaps You could tell the Radiator Manufacturer who recommended LSX that a Professional Heating Engineer told you `never use Fernox LSX mastic for any joint on a Heating system` - and tell them why ?

It might save other Radiator buyers from being told something that is NOT advisable.

Any of the recommendations from Members above would be appropriate for the Radiator valve connections.

Chris
 
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The LSX will therefore remain unopened. As it took hemp and boss white to get a seal for my test setup will stick with those, at least I know they work.
 
The LSX will therefore remain unopened. As it took hemp and boss white to get a seal for my test setup will stick with those, at least I know they work.

Hello again Bogart,

When I started in the Plumbing Trade `Boss White & Hemp` was the ONLY way to seal `Domestic` / small bore threaded joints.

For larger bore threads there was a `Thread reinforcing string` on a roll which was preferred by `Pipe Fitters` to Hemp for larger bore Pipes / threads.

I think that a Joint `paste` called `Stag` was favoured by Pipe Fitters for both small and large bore threads and I think it was put onto the market in the late 1960`s / early 1970`s [?] - there were only a couple of varieties then but I think that the brand now has a few varieties for various uses.

Now there are many varieties of `Jointing Paste` and liquid sealants.

Good Luck with your Radiator valve joints.

Chris
 
Hello again Bogart,

When I started in the Plumbing Trade `Boss White & Hemp` was the ONLY way to seal `Domestic` / small bore threaded joints.

For larger bore threads there was a `Thread reinforcing string` on a roll which was preferred by `Pipe Fitters` to Hemp for larger bore Pipes / threads.

I think that a Joint `paste` called `Stag` was favoured by Pipe Fitters for both small and large bore threads and I think it was put onto the market in the late 1960`s / early 1970`s [?] - there were only a couple of varieties then but I think that the brand now has a few varieties for various uses.

Now there are many varieties of `Jointing Paste` and liquid sealants.

Good Luck with your Radiator valve joints.

Chris
The jobs done Chris :)
Thanks for the trip down your memory lane though.
 
The jobs done Chris :)
Thanks for the trip down your memory lane though.

Hello rpm,

How do You know that Bogart / the OP completed the Radiator connections between Saturday morning and now ?

I have a feeling that You are trying to provoke me into insulting you - however your inane comment displays your attitude / mentality.

I will try not to lower myself by resorting to name calling - unlike yourself when you called me a `Clown` recently.

Chris
 
Hello rpm,

How do You know that Bogart / the OP completed the Radiator connections between Saturday morning and now ?

I have a feeling that You are trying to provoke me into insulting you - however your inane comment displays your attitude / mentality.

I will try not to lower myself by resorting to name calling - unlike yourself when you called me a `Clown` recently.

Chris
Hello again CHRISX,
First up, my error for failing to notice the word Test in the reply as for the rest of your reply well, where is the icon for rolling around on floor the laughing? :D
 
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Hello again Bogart,

When I started in the Plumbing Trade `Boss White & Hemp` was the ONLY way to seal `Domestic` / small bore threaded joints.

For larger bore threads there was a `Thread reinforcing string` on a roll which was preferred by `Pipe Fitters` to Hemp for larger bore Pipes / threads.

I think that a Joint `paste` called `Stag` was favoured by Pipe Fitters for both small and large bore threads and I think it was put onto the market in the late 1960`s / early 1970`s [?] - there were only a couple of varieties then but I think that the brand now has a few varieties for various uses.

Now there are many varieties of `Jointing Paste` and liquid sealants.

Good Luck with your Radiator valve joints.

Chris

Thanks, interesting to know. I've seen the sprinkler guys using a string with paste on their threads.

Which was the best method in your opinion?
 
Thanks, interesting to know. I've seen the sprinkler guys using a string with paste on their threads.

Which was the best method in your opinion?

Hello ABK,

The `Joint reinforcing cord`/ `String` is probably best for the larger bore pipe threads as it is very easy to wind into the thread and it saves the Installer from having to pull Hemp into strands.

I would recommend `Boss White / Hawk White & Hemp` for Small bore [up to 1.25"] Iron Pipework for water.

Chris
 
I use Loctite 55 and Jet paste, but most importantly I roughen the thread on the tails with a file before wrapping with the 55. This helps the string to stay on the thread when you screw it in.
Some tails and male fittings do come pre "roughened".
 
I was assuming the word string was referring to Loctite 55.
Am about to start the jobs this morning.


Hello Bogart,

Loctite seem to have the market `tied up` [excuse the unintended pun] with Loctite 55 now.

I have no idea who manufactured the `Joint reinforcing cord` that I mentioned in a previous message to You in the 1960`s & 1970`s or since / before Loctite 55 became available.

Just like Yarn and Hemp it just came with no manufacturers identification that I can remember from the Plumbers Merchant.

Hemp is also available in dispensers which allow a `strand` to be pulled out which is good for use on large bore threaded joints - it just saves having to pull strands of Hemp off the `Hank` [`Hank of Hemp`].

Good Luck with the Radiator tails.

Chris
 
Have tried Boss White with hemp and Loctite 55 both have made a good seal. I like the idea of Boss White with cast iron rads, like what it used to be! Think I will use Loctite55 on any other rad as I think is better than ptfe. One point I did note was that both of them seem to slip the thread a bit and bunch up but sealed so what?
 
Sounds like you may have applied the products to the thread in the wrong rotation.
 
Nope correct direction. Maybe I am just putting too much on the thread
Depends on what you mean by bunch up then I guess. Applied in the correct rotation the chosen product is compressed into the thread and any sealant is pushed outwards.
 
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Cross hatch the threads with a hack saw blade not too deep .5mm
 
I have marked the threads as shown on various videos including one from Loctite . Attached are 2 photos first one is of Loctite55 second one is Boss White and hemp.
PA312677.JPG
PA312678.JPG
 
Look I appreciate that you are diy however both are a mess and I'm not convinced that the products used were applied in the correct rotation.
 
loctite one is spot on

hemp looks to be a bit too much paste but doesnt matter

to clean them up carefully go round the thread as close to the rad as possible and cut the excess off with a hacksaw blade
 
loctite one is spot on

hemp looks to be a bit too much paste but doesnt matter

to clean them up carefully go round the thread as close to the rad as possible and cut the excess off with a hacksaw blade
Are you serious Shaun, would you be happy to put your name on the ptfe joint?
 
Look I appreciate that you are diy however both are a mess and I'm not convinced that the products used were applied in the correct rotation.
Well I do know my clockwise from my anticlockwise. A mess? If I exhibited them at the Tate Modern would be worth a fortune.
 
loctite one is spot on

hemp looks to be a bit too much paste but doesnt matter

to clean them up carefully go round the thread as close to the rad as possible and cut the excess off with a hacksaw blade

I was going to trim them off with a stanley knife when they have been in use a while.
 
Are you serious Shaun, would you be happy to put your name on the ptfe joint?

yes as thats how boss white and hemp goes

will give you an idea but he doesnt use enough hemp for my liking

 
yes as thats how boss white and hemp goes

will give you an idea but he doesnt use enough hemp for my liking

Cheers but don`t need a leason, done 1/8 bsp to 10 or 12" pipe joints over the years, only on the bigger stuff in places like Battersea power station would they be acceptable.
PS I did say the ptfe joint.
 

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