Camray 5 external problem

[highlandbob]

I have a Camray 5 90BE external oil boiler which recently went off, I had a look and it needed thebreset switch pressing underneath the control panel then was ok for a week or so then went off again
This time reset was ok but no power getting through
I found the fuse on the circuit board was blown and the pump was dead so replaced both and it fired up ok and heats the water but doesn’t switch to radiators unless I push the manual lever on the actuator and lock it off then the pump comes on and the rads heat up
I looked at the valve and it was sticky so replaced it but no different so thought it must be the actuator just got a new one and fitted it today but no change
Anyone know what this could be ? The boiler fires and heats the hot water normally but the rads don’t come on unless I manually move the actuator lever , programmer is set to 24 hours as normal and stat set high up with normal light on

 

[SJB060685]

Are you sure you’re getting feed from programmer to room stat and back? The pump dying was probably why you had to reset the high limit stat as the heat wasn’t getting circulated away, changing that shouldn’t cause that issue again, unless there’s still air in system.

 

[highlandbob]

The limit stat only tripped once the first time, the next time it was the fuse on the circuit board blown but the limit stat was ok
Programmer is telling the boiler to fire and it heats the water but if you do nothing the boiler will just keep the water hot but no heat to the rads unless you move the actuator lever manually
It’s a bit of a head scratcher

 

[SJB060685]

I’m looking at the wiring flow chart for the boiler in question (I think) and really this needs an engineer close to you as this could be a number of things from programmer, to room stat, boiler stats and PCB.

 

[SJB060685]

Sorry I misread last comment, I was a bit pre occupied. Looking at this diagram I would suggest it’s one of the relays on the PCB

 

[highlandbob]

Pcb was what I was thinking but an expensive bit of kit I guess

 

[SJB060685]

If I’m looking at the right flow chart then what you’ve said is and more importantly isn’t happening suggests you have a problem with relay 1R2 and/or 2R2. This would explain why you’re having to do what you are. Replacing the PCB will sort this.

 

[SimonG]

Did you buy the right actuator? HSA 3CD?

 

[SJB060685]

That’s a possibility but my money is on the PCB lol

 

[highlandbob]

YesI bought the correct five wire cd actuator exactly the sand as the one I removed

 

[highlandbob]

Any chance it could be the room stat before I order a new pcb ? If so how do I bypass it ?
It’s a standard danfoss wall thermostat

 

[SJB060685]

If I’ve got right what you’re saying and I’m looking at the right flow chart then your roomstat is working properly and it’s one or both relays I already mentioned. The room stat is calling for heat and going through control stat but the relays are broken and not supplying feed to three port.

 

[SJB060685]

@highlandbob. Hi, did you link out the roomstat like in the image I showed you or did you just replace the PCB? Just wondering how you got on and if it’s fixed?

 

[highlandbob]

Picking up a new pcb on Monday so hopefully it will fix the problem

 

[SJB060685]

Ok. Well at least you have HW and CH, albeit manually for CH. let me know please

 

[highlandbob]

I got a new pcb and just fitted it but no change
A bit at a loss what to try next it’s had new valve and actuator and new pcb but still just heats the water and switches off doesn’t open the valve and circulate to the radiators unless you move the actuator lever lever manually if you do that the pump starts and the rads heat up but let go of the lever and it goes back and switches off the pump
How would I test the thermostat to make sure that is not faulty ?
It’s a Danfoss RET230VF2 wall stat

 

[SJB060685]

So with HW tank satisfied and burner off you turn on heating and what happens exactly? Does the burner come on?

 

[SJB060685]

If you expose the PCB and look for JP12 connector block and using a multimeter test for 230v at terminals 4 and 5. One is common, the other call

 

[highlandbob]

I got a new pcb and just fitted it but no change
A bit at a loss what to try next it’s had new valve and actuator and new pcb but still just heats the water and switches off doesn’t open the valve and circulate to the radiators unless you move the actuator lever lever manually if you do that the pump starts and the rads heat up but let go of the lever and it goes back and switches off the pump
How would I test the thermostat to make sure that is not faulty ?
It’s a Danfoss RET230VF2 wall stat

 

[highlandbob]

I think I might have found the problem after spending £20o on a valve, actuator and new pcb
I took the wall stat off to see if I could bypass it and noticed one of the lugs at the top that locate it to the backplate wasn’t in properly
The socket back box used to fit the backplate is further in at the right hand side so the lug on that side is hard against the wall
I pulled the backbox forward and located both lugs properly fitting the stat correctly
Now it’s working
The stat was taken off originally because no power was getting through which was found to be the pcb on board slow blow fuse so looks like all the time the problem was the wall stat being incorrectly fitted back although it was still showing lights on the front and looking like it was ok

 

[SJB060685]

That makes sense. If you follow the flow chart you’ll see the feed runs through rocker switch, through room stat, through control stat and linking off to diverter valve at same time which motors over. What was happening was there was no feed from room stat, so burner wasn’t igniting and diverter wasn’t motoring over, by manually moving the actuator you were switching end switch, which connected a permanent live to pump as well as opening up CH port, this in turn was circulating hot water already in system around radiators. I assumed you had tested room stat function some time ago when I posted screenshot, I didn’t take into account you were unsure how. You might be able to take PCB back and get a refund, however I would keep it as you might need it in the future.