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Discuss Bathroom radiator hot on both hot water and central heating... in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi all,

Could someone with a little more experience than me please confirm my understanding, as I have not seen many of these in the field.

I have heard that some systems, particularly older systems, tee in the bathroom rad into the primary circuit. Is this done simply by teeing into the primary flow after the pump, but before zones, as per the image? In addition to this, is the return piped correctly, as per the image? If so, I am guessing the bathroom rad is simply acting as a large by-pass valve...

Thanks in advance...

2018-05-29_06-16-20.jpg
 
Yeah I've seen it done like that I thought it was very strange because it could short circuit heating in my opinion...brum
 
Correct
 
Correct, sometimes called “summer heat” you will normally find a gate valve as a balancing valve so not to completely bypass the system.

Personally I think it is a great idea, as towel rads in bathrooms are able to dry towels all year! I’m not talking an 1800x600, mind.
Then a separate panel rad to heat the room in winter.

Generally only in bigger bathrooms.

Last year we did a large project and 3 of the bathrooms had this set up. Very nice job indeed

4E1E3CCF-4850-44D9-8ED4-B4C8DB8579B7.jpeg


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Bathroom slightly spoiled by white pushfit connector under WC cistern IMO. Picky or what lol? But very nice, and I do have a soft spot for panelling.
Re. the original question, yes, sounds about right. If that's how it's plumbed, with the return tees and flow tees not in the same order, then there is a risk of gravity circulation up the central heating return pipe, depending on the precise layout of the pipework (symptom would be a slight warmth in CH radiators). But if it works, then it's fine.
I think having the bathroom radiator on its own circuit as you have is a very good idea: in spring and autumn it can very often be too cold for the bathroom when the rest of the house is at a perfectly acceptable temperature.
 
Bathroom slightly spoiled by white pushfit connector under WC cistern IMO. Picky or what lol? .

Yes , lol . Those pushfit connectors are the dogs pal , far better than a fibre washer that could last one week or twenty years .
 
I never normally allow any pushfit to be seen, but those connectors are far too handy much easier to future maintenance!
 
You can get them in chrome can't you ?

And only problem I can see is you need to remove the chrome plating
 
You can get them in chrome can't you ?

And only problem I can see is you need to remove the chrome plating

Yeah chrome ones would have been a better shout, but il take that one :)

How do you know it’s not? ;)

Abrasive strip the last 18-20mm and nothing shows
 
I think you must have removed the chrome from the last bit, as I'm told that it really won't work at all if you don't.
 
I have tried it, then been able to slide the fitting off with out pushing the locking collar in....
 
Yeah, thought as much, but thank you for confirming. I'd never tried it as I had been told it wouldn't work/had read technical literature (and, probably, because I've never had occasion to put speedfit onto chrome). A bathroom installer, not trained as a plumber told me it wouldn't work, and I assumed that he'd found out the hard way.
 
Yes , lol . Those pushfit connectors are the dogs pal , far better than a fibre washer that could last one week or twenty years .
Or fifty? When I wasn't qualified or working as a plumber, I reused a tap connector onto a new-secondhand FOV in a house I had lived in for 21 years. Unaware that the red bit was replaceable, I left the original washer in place. The washer was already at least 20 years old, and had, quite possibly, been in place since the house was built 49 years prior (in 1962) to my re-using the part. Or would you assume that the washer MUST have been replaced at some point? I'm assuming it may have sprung a trace weep at some point and then furred up.

The tap connector was originally connected to a BRE Garston type valve (an early incarnation of the Part 2). Sadly, the cistern was asbestos cement and, not wanting to disturb fibres, the original FOV was disposed of with the cistern itself.

Epilogue: the house was sold 3 years later, still with the secondhand washer in place and no evidence of leakage.
 
Yeah, thought as much, but thank you for confirming. I'd never tried it as I had been told it wouldn't work/had read technical literature (and, probably, because I've never had occasion to put speedfit onto chrome). A bathroom installer, not trained as a plumber told me it wouldn't work, and I assumed that he'd found out the hard way.

1 of the 3 lengths of chrome tube did this. The other bit ok, it was a test to see how they held. Needless to say the one slip was enough to persuade me!!!
 
I have tried it, then been able to slide the fitting off with out pushing the locking collar in..

I found that out the hard way when I was a 2nd year apprentice on my first shower replacement job. I piped up an exposed shower valve with nice neat chrome copper drops from the loft and used a couple of Tectite elbows up there without realising I needed to file away the plating. Already nervous as it was one of my first unsupervised jobs, I turned the supplies back on and they both blew off immediately. Water damage fortunately limited to the ceiling above the shower enclosure.

I was very grateful they went immediately instead of later that night at least. Lesson learned the hard way, as always.
 
I would guess it’s down to the playing being harder than copper so the teeth can’t dig in.
 
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