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Discuss 1st Boiler you fitted in the Plumbing Forum area at UKPlumbersForums.co.uk.

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  1. Rob Foster

    Rob Foster Top Contributor!!

    We must all remember our 1st fit. Mine was a ELM Le Blanc 4.20, 2nd was a 3.? Le Blanc with only french instructions and we connected the mains water up to the gas feed - spreads asked why water was wizzing out pipe thro wall ! 4.20 was a combi with no diverter valve - 2 circuits around heater, dhw and Chw
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2018
  2. ShaunCorbs

    ShaunCorbs S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Main multi point and a Worcester boiler
     
  3. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Baxi solo 2 for me.
     
  4. chris watkins

    chris watkins Plumber Top Contributor!!

    Ideal Concord W RS, one of the first cast iron, wall hung, Room Sealed natural draft balanced flue boilers.
    You had to have mussels to lift them on the wall on your own.

    It was still going strong nearly 30 years later when house was modernised.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2018
  5. Ted808

    Ted808 Plumber GSR

    Went back to the first GLOW WORM i fitted last week- open vented system- at the time PF and new rads except one. Trouble was F+E had a thing!? growing on top like a squid about 1/2" thick - an orangey brown, thick enough to pick up and then it ripped and slipped back into the deep dark depths! Never seen that before has anyone else?

    IMG_20180815_095359131.jpg
     
  6. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Has anyone tipped inhibitor straight into the F&E?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. Ted808

    Ted808 Plumber GSR

    Maybe - he did add some rads after I'd been there, and I told him about if he drains down etc... You thinking it's globbed inhibitor in f+e?
     
  8. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Yes mate, maybe.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  9. Chalked

    Chalked Plumber GSR

    Probably,Thorn Apollo. But could have been a Dunsley coal back boiler.
     
  10. Sue66

    Sue66 GSR

    Ideal logic plus 35kw.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  11. quality

    quality Plumber GSR

    Ideal classic for me but Ive only been registered for gas 20 years
     
  12. Rob Foster

    Rob Foster Top Contributor!!

    When I started ANYBODY could fit gas , then corgi came in and eventually was made essential and we all had to pass tests, then ACOPs, then ACTS, it goes oooooooooooooooon and on a licence to print money INMHO
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  13. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    I wish:D:D
     
  14. sammathias

    sammathias Plumber GSR

    Ravenheap CSI 85.
     
  15. CHRISX

    CHRISX Active Member


    Hello Ted808,

    It was probably because the F&E Tank did NOT have any Corrosion Inhibitor poured in after filling the Heating system that the `Bacterial slime` built up on top of the water.

    When Inhibitor is put into an Open Vented Heating system a small amount is supposed to be poured into the F&E Tank after the system is full up to prevent the build up of Bacteria / `Slime` in the Tank.

    That used to be printed on Fernox and Sentinel Corrosion Inhibitor containers - I have not needed to read any of them for about the last 40 Years.

    However - as we know a newly filled Heating system will need venting for at least another couple of days and dependant on the size of the system and how much Air has to be released / water filled from the F&E Tank during that period that small amount of Inhibitor can be diluted enough to make it ineffective / not able to prevent Bacterial / `Slime` build up.

    So ideally the small amount of Inhibitor should be added to the F&E Tank after ALL of the Air has been vented from the system which will probably not be by the Heating Engineer / Installer so not practical.

    There will be some evaporation of water from the F&E Tank which over a period of time will also cause the dilution of the Inhibitor in the Tank and cause it to not be able to prevent Bacterial build up.

    In my opinion Heating systems with F&E Tanks should have Corrosion Inhibitor added to the Tank at least every 5 years - better still - have the system drained, refilled and chemically cleaned and then drained and refilled with new Corrosion Inhibitor about every 5 years.

    Having a Heating system that was filled and Corrosion Inhibitor added 10 - 15 or 20 years ago and expecting the Inhibitor to still be protecting the system after all that time is a `false expectation`.

    Something else regarding the dosage of systems that is often misunderstood / not fully explained by the Corrosion Inhibitor manufacturers is the `treats up to 10 Radiators` / 100 Litres system capacity specification - they mean 10 x SINGLE PANEL Radiators.

    So if we do not want to actually calculate the water capacity of each system I would always recommend 2 x Containers of Corrosion Inhibitor for the `average` House or Flat with 10 or 12 Radiators.

    What You have encountered regarding your description of `being able to pick it up ` ! is quite extreme in my experience - although not unheard of.

    Regards,

    Chris
     
    • Like Like x 2
    • Informative Informative x 1
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2018
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