Trickling hot water bath tap.

[Jamie Tennant]

I

Are there filters on TMVs?

honestly wouldn’t know if they had filters on

 

[Jamie Tennant]

Temporarily remove the tmv; hook up the hot feed for the tmv directly to the hot tap (compression flexi should do it with no pipe work alterations), then if the tap behaves normally - replace the tmv ( although personally I’d just remove it)

Ok I’ll give this a try will I have to buy a flexi or will there be enough on it to connect?

 

[Ben-gee]

You’ll see when you get the bath panel off, I have a 900 long flexi for this type of testing - I’m sure you can easily get something to do it.

 

[Jamie Tennant]

Ok thanks I’ll have a look after work and I can leave the TMV off after wards if that’s the problem?

 

[Jamie Tennant]

Ok thanks I’ll have a look after work and I can leave the TMV off after wards if that’s the problem?

 

[Jamie Tennant]

This is what the underneath of the bath looks like

 

[Ben-gee]

Pushfit everything - what is wrong with these people, call themselves tradesmen....
Isolate both the hot and the cold valves.
The pipe entering the bottom of the tmv is the hot, connect this to the copper pipe going to the hot tap.
Disconnect one of the two elbows on the cold and cap off the pipe (I expect that tap mixes in the body and has no non-return valves).
Turn on the hot isolating valve BUT LEAVE the COLD OFF.
Test the hot tap.
If better flow, replace the TMV , whilst you are about it I would replace the two isolating valves with full bore valves.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Pushfit everything - what is wrong with these people, call themselves tradesmen..
Isolate both the hot and the cold valves.
The pipe entering the bottom of the tmv is the hot, connect this to the copper pipe going to the hot tap.
Disconnect one of the two elbows on the cold and cap off the pipe (I expect that tap mixes in the body and has no non-return valves).
Turn on the hot isolating valve BUT LEAVE the COLD OFF.
Test the hot tap.
If better flow, replace the TMV , whilst you are about it I would replace the two isolating valves with full bore valves.

New builds are covered in the stuff nowadays mate

 

[Ben-gee]

I hate it when you turn up to a job and there’s some pushfit you’re not familiar with and it needs a “special tool” to undo. But I suppose it can be quicker and that’s probably what they’re after.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I hate it when you turn up to a job and there’s some pushfit you’re not familiar with and it needs a “special tool” to undo. But I suppose it can be quicker and that’s probably what they’re after.

its called a hammer and grips

 

[Ben-gee]

Then post all the bits back to them saying “not really reusable, as your literature claims...”

 

[SimonG]

Good old RAF

 

[dan_the_plumber]

What about the flow out of the kitchen tap, has that dropped too?

 

[Jamie Tennant]

Pushfit everything - what is wrong with these people, call themselves tradesmen..
Isolate both the hot and the cold valves.
The pipe entering the bottom of the tmv is the hot, connect this to the copper pipe going to the hot tap.
Disconnect one of the two elbows on the cold and cap off the pipe (I expect that tap mixes in the body and has no non-return valves).
Turn on the hot isolating valve BUT LEAVE the COLD OFF.
Test the hot tap.
If better flow, replace the TMV , whilst you are about it I would replace the two isolating valves with full bore valves.

Thanks Ben I’ll give this a try tomorrow morning I’ve being away recently so I have not being able to check the forum.. is there any bits I’ll need to buy before I try and connect the copper pipe to the one going into the TMV? To make sure the I get it to fit? Elbows or something like that? Also best way to get push fits off?

 

[Jamie Tennant]

What about the flow out of the kitchen tap, has that dropped too?

No mate flow to every tap is the just normal only bath how tap has changed I’ve just came back from being away and it’s even worse now