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Isolating valves - why the big difference in price?

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GrumpyGrampa

GrumpyGrampa

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I'm not a plumber. I know the answer may well be "quality" but can you professionals explain why? I attach links to two 15 mm isolating valves from Screwfix. I've used ones from the 10 pack often enough but they occasionally "weep" when turned on/off.

The pack of 10 costs £9.79 and a pack of 2 costs £4.49 - works out at £.97 each or £2.25 each!

10 pack link - Isolating Valve 15mm 10 Pack

2 pack link - Isolating Valve 15mm 2 Pack

I think I'll use the isolating valve with handle in the future - what do you think?

Isolating valve with lever - £ 2.29 each

Isolating Valve with Handle 15mm
 
All three are cheap low quality valves
Get a ball valve if you want better
 
The difference in price is because some are appauling.
Others are complete rubbish and the rest should be put in a skip.

They all either leak or seize up just when you need to use them.

The Speedfit plastic ones are just as bad.

I do commercial maintenance so see hundreds of these.
 
The first two are the same just your buying in bulk that's why there's a price difference (also bigger profit for screwfix as your more likely to go with the two pack)
 
Thanks guys...what I thought. In your opinion, what should I use, say to the feed of a sink tap or toilet cistern (assume not to use flexi)
 
Full bore ISO valve
 
Yes or go to your local plumbing merchants eg city plumbing prob will be cheaper
 
Pegler Tee Ball Valve Red 15mm
These are what I asked my plumber to use. I prefer these with handles as it's amazing how much water can leak while you're looking for a screwdriver.
I believe they should be operated occasionally to prevent seizure.
They get good reviews on S'fix online.
 
GrumpyGrampa said:
I'm not a plumber. I know the answer may well be "quality" but can you professionals explain why? I attach links to two 15 mm isolating valves from Screwfix. I've used ones from the 10 pack often enough but they occasionally "weep" when turned on/off.
Click to expand...

I find these valves OK, it is critical NOT to grip/clamp the slotted 1/4 turn when fitting them (when holding them when tightening compression nut), if you do this can cause them to weep/leak at the 1/4 turn.
 
You are correct of course KOP, but WRAS approval is PURELY to do with the materials used. The badly designed carp can be WRAS approved too. WRAS in NO WAY warrants fitness for purpose. Further, for approval for the cheap valve referred to earlier, it would only be the o-ring and any other NON METALLIC parts that would be tested. If brass is used it can still contain bucket load of lead because we are so far behind the rest of the world in that respect its a joke.
HTH
 
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