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longshanks

I fitted a Draton HTS 3 stat to my system about 5-6 years ago although it works I think I may have connected it wrongly. I have just discovered that if I turn the stat down to low the C/H will not run. My question is were do the terminals on the stat connect to within the wiring box? At the moment I am connected common terminal from the stat to the programmer H/W on, the satisfied terminal to programmer hot off/ two way valve, and the Call terminal to the 2 way valve and boiler.
Can anyone make head nor tale of this or better still tell me were each wire goes for the thermostat.
regards.
 
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I fitted a Draton HTS 3 stat to my system about 5-6 years ago although it works I think I may have connected it wrongly. I have just discovered that if I turn the stat down to low the C/H will not run. My question is were do the terminals on the stat connect to within the wiring box? At the moment I am connected common terminal from the stat to the programmer H/W on, the satisfied terminal to programmer hot off/ two way valve, and the Call terminal to the 2 way valve and boiler.
By 2-way valve do you mean a mid position valve, i.e the valve pipework is in the form of a T with the pump connected to the bottom, the cylinder to one side and the heating to the other?

If so, the correct wiring for the HW stat is:

Common to Programmer HW ON
Call to boiler switched live
Sat to valve Grey wire

There should also be wires from Programmer HW OFF to valve Grey wire and from valve Orange to boiler Switched Live.
 
Many thanks for your reply.
yes the valve is a Tower Val 322mp mid position valve. The wiring is :-Stat com to yellow wire (programmer) water on.
stat sat to programmer yellow/green, valve grey.
stat call to valve orange and boiler white.
I think this is the same as your example. I am not sure that Call is on the right terminal in the wiring box
my boiler is a potterton Prima C open flue using a Towerchron QE2 programmer.
 
The wiring is :-Stat com to yellow wire (programmer) water on.
stat sat to programmer yellow/green, valve grey.
stat call to valve orange and boiler white.
I think this is the same as your example. I am not sure that Call is on the right terminal in the wiring box
my boiler is a potterton Prima C open flue using a Towerchron QE2 programmer.
How have you checked these cables connect as stated? On paper they all look correct.

The boiler white wire should connect to the SwL (middle) terminal on the boiler.

Do you have a multimeter, if so you can check the voltages on the terminals as follows:

Notes

The terminal nos assume the standard Y Plan wiring.

The pump will not be connected as shown. This is because you have pump overrun. It will either be connected directly to the boiler or to a spare terminal which then connects to the pump terminal on the boiler

Carry out tests in sequence given.

CH Only Test (Port A open)

Turn Power OFF at main connection for the system (turning CH and HW OFF at programmer is not sufficient) This resets the valve to rest position
Disconnect white valve wire from terminal T5 and grey wire from terminal T7.
Connect white and grey wires to permanent Live (T1)
Turn Power ON
Valve should move over so port A is open and boiler light (check by feeling that only the pipe from port A gets hot)

If the valve does not move, Switch S1 is not moving over.
If the valve moves but the boiler does not light, switch S2 is not moving over. (check 240V on orange)


HW Only Test (Port B open)

Power OFF (valve returns to rest position)
Turn HW stat to lowest
Disconnect grey and white from permanent Live (T1) and temporarily make safe (e.g connect to spare terminals in the wiring centre)
Disconnect cylinder stat Common from T6 and connect to permanent live (T1)
Power ON
Turn cylinder stat to max.
Boiler should light. (check by feeling that only the pipe from port B gets hot)
If it does not light, the cylinder thermostat is suspect (check for 240V at Common and Call terminals of cylinder stat and at terminal 8 ).

CH and HW Test (Ports A and B open)

Power OFF
Turn cylinder stat to lowest
Disconnect cylinder stat wire from permanent live (T1) and reconnect to original terminal (T6)
Disconnect white wire from temporary location and connect to permanent Live (T1)
Power ON
Valve should move to mid position
Turn Cylinder stat to max
Boiler should light (check that pipes from ports A and B both get hot).
If boiler does not light cylinder stat is faulty
Power OFF
Reconnect white and grey to original terminals (T5 and T7)
Turn HW OFF and CH ON
Set CH stat high
Turn Power ON
Valve should move to Port A open, boiler light and Port A get hot.
Turn CH OFF, so boiler goes out.
Boiler should go out but valve stay in CH only position
If boiler does not go out, check voltage on orange wire.
If orange has 240v, the actuator is faulty
If orange has 50-150v, there is a problem with the boiler


If these tests are passed, the problem is elsewhere.

Testing other components

Cylinder thermostat: disconnect wires from CALL (1) and SAT (2) terminals when checking, this prevents false readings due to back feed.

There should be 240V on Call (1) when stat is turned up and 240v on Sat (2) when stat is turned down

Room thermostat: disconnect wire from Switched Live when checking to prevent false readings due to back feed.

There should be 240v on Sw L (3) when stat is turned up and 0V when it is turned down.

Note: you may find that terminals 1 (live) and 3 (Sw Live) of the thermostat have been swapped over. This is not too important for modern digital thermostats but should be corrected if you have the older mechanical thermostat.

Programmer: Check voltages at CH ON, HW ON and HW OFF terminals when programmer set to appropriate positions. Also check the voltages when the timer is used to switch on/off.
 

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Many thanks for your help, I do have a multimeter I will follow your guide
 
I have been having trouble with my hot water. I have Y system an recently noticed that he boiler was nor firing up when I should do. I checked the programmer and both lights for CH and DHW were on. I turned up the room stat and the CH fired up ok, but nothing happened when I turned up the cylinder stat, even though I could feel the cylinder was cool, however sometimes the DHW does come on as programmed without a problem. The cylinder stat is an Iflo. I have multi meter and would like to test it, would I be right in thinking that if I turn the programmer to constant an turn up the cylinder stat, can place my meter on the Common and Call terminals of the stat and I should see a 240v reading, with zero on the Sat terminal. and Vice versa when I turn it down and place the meter on the Common and Sat terminals .
 
being your a farmer I am happy to say you need a plumber to come and fix it, as you get nice grants and we dont and need the money
 
Hi mr farmer. You get get an EEC grant to pay for this some how! And hello. Bet your actually just called farmer and hate the outdoors
 
Hey guys go easy on Mr Farmer, he wants hot water to wash off all that Mud and stinky sh%t ! Unless he`s all arable then he will still need DHW on all that sweat.
Lets help him if we can ?
My first check would be;- verify the M/V synchron motor is working.
Mr farmer are you sure you know how to test the stat circuit ? You need to connect onto a neutral with one probe, the other probe can then check voltage on the stat terminals as shown in the diagram above.
 
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Hey guys go easy on Mr Farmer, he wants hot water to wash off all that Mud and stinky sh%t ! Unless he`s all arable then he will still need DHW on all that sweat.
Lets help him if we can ?
My first check would be;- verify the M/V synchron motor is working.
Mr farmer are you sure you know how to test the stat circuit ? You need to connect onto a neutral with one probe, the other probe can then check voltage on the stat terminals as shown in the diagram above.

Many thanks for your help Efficiencyman, I appreciate your honest answer.

I m actually a hardworking farmer and would like to try and diagnose the problem I have with my hot water before I actually get a plumber in.

I am disappointed at the abuse I received and will not post again. I apologise for the intrusion as clearly an outsider is not welcome here.
 
I hope Mr Farmer`s reply is read by all those who have made those negative remarks will go on a guilt trip, repent from the abuse but post in a helpful manner and abide by the rules, all too often the pointless wit needs to be curtailed with humility and self control.
Shame that the talented guys on here are let down by the few, can`t they see how ridiculous their behaviour is, trying to be --- ? ? ?.
The short sighted insults, probably from some who have never done a hard days work in the conditions that Mr Farmer has to do in his employment, should learn what it`s like to earn to less than half what the average plumber earns for even less hours than an average farm worker.
Mods. I hope this is not considered off topic but rather a rebuke, to clean up this forum.
P.S. I`m aware how important it is for DIY`ers who need to be warned about safety in their actions.
 
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I hope Mr Farmer`s reply is read by all those who have made those negative remarks will go on a guilt trip, repent from the abuse but post in a helpful manner and abide by the rules, all too often the pointless wit needs to be curtailed with humility and self control.
Shame that the talented guys on here are let down by the few, can`t they see how ridiculous their behaviour is, trying to be --- ? ? ?.
The short sighted insults, probably from some who have never done a hard days work in the conditions that Mr Farmer has to do in his employment, should learn what it`s like to earn to less than half what the average plumber earns for even less hours than an average farm worker.
Mods. I hope this is not considered off topic but rather a rebuke, to clean up this forum.
P.S. I`m aware how important it is for DIY`ers who need to be warned about safety in their actions.
I tended to agree with you until Mr Farmers last post when he rather shot himself in the foot as it were (pun intended) No doubt he is hard working but not that hard that he can't afford time out to carry out some quite extensive research into his non functioning heating / hot water system so that he knows what is wrong before he calls a plumber, I don't think so.
 
I hope Mr Farmer`s reply is read by all those who have made those negative remarks will go on a guilt trip, repent from the abuse but post in a helpful manner and abide by the rules, all too often the pointless wit needs to be curtailed with humility and self control.
Shame that the talented guys on here are let down by the few, can`t they see how ridiculous their behaviour is, trying to be --- ? ? ?.
The short sighted insults, probably from some who have never done a hard days work in the conditions that Mr Farmer has to do in his employment, should learn what it`s like to earn to less than half what the average plumber earns for even less hours than an average farm worker.
Mods. I hope this is not considered off topic but rather a rebuke, to clean up this forum.
P.S. I`m aware how important it is for DIY`ers who need to be warned about safety in their actions.

I'm quite happy to speak from both sides of the fence having been raised in farming and trained in agriculture and now work in heating and plumbing and I for one would rather work in farming any day. The workload as a plumber is just as hard, if not more so and much less rewarding and although it may not be true for all farmers, the ones I grew up with and still know earn and live much better than any plumber I know. So no guilt trip from this poster at this time and it was tongue in cheek to someone who was probably never going to use a plumber until things went totally wrong. The only thing I dont do now is get up at 0445 to milk the cows, which was something I enjoyed doing, so much so I was relief milking for a local farmer 5 years ago, but am to busy to do now.
 
Totally agree lame, huge joy to be got from farming , have a similar background myself
 
Heath Row, used to be very agricultural before some idiot planted an airport on it :)
 
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