Search the forum,

Compression joint leak hassle.

Discuss Compression joint leak hassle. in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
Yes you need to excavate and expose it.

I can't see any lead pipe in your picture but then again it's not very clear.

Can you get all the water out to enact a soldered fitting? Otherwise I'd cut back and use a new compression fitting?
 
Thanks
Here is a new photo.
Will it definitely be a lead pipe?
I have blown out the water in the pipe.[DLMURL]http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/images/attach/jpg.gif[/DLMURL]

scock 002.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What you have showing is definitely copper (lead is a grey colour) though I can't say what's buried in the floor.

You should be OK soldering onto it if you can get it cleaned up and a fitting on.

If it were me I would chisel more cement out and try demounting the 22mm straight connector from the 22mm pipe buried in the cement and remaking the section above.
 
Last edited:
Thanks.

It's about what's hidden that I was making the query.

Yes, OK soldering, if, I can find my torch.

Are saying there will be a threaded joint below ground?
Or, I am better off soldering further back at the 22mm.?
 
You seem determined to do this yourself although I think you should call in somebody who knows what they are doing.
You have a 22mm or even old 3/4 yorkshire solder straight reducing to 15mm or 1/2 inch. Imperial sizes depend on when it was originally fitted. You will have to check which it is.
Get a hammer and cold chisel and cut back concrete around the pipe to expose the existing solder joint. Once exposed you can apply heat and sweat off the old solder joint. Thoroughly clean the pipe and refit a new 22mm straight with a 15mm reducer and length of copper pipe long enough so you don't get the same problem in the future.
Cheers
Jack
 
I think hes had more than enough advice now boys its time for him to go away and mess it up and then pay a proper plumber to fix it --------YOU CAN LEAD A HORSE TO THE WATER BUT YOU CANT MAKE HIM DRINK IT
I rest my case
 
Hi,
Thanks for such an informative answer.
I am a pensioner on a part-time wage and a veteran DIY type.
I can't locate my bottle to torch hose now.
Do you mean resolder the old fitting?
I am now considering a leadloc compression joint.
Maybe even cut the lead if I can't find an alternative.
What is the 'hemp' all about?
There seems to be tar or pitch involved too.
Does this reveal the age & thus the diameter?
You say '3/4'. Is that inches or a type?
Hey, thanks again for all the help here.[DLMURL]http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/images/attach/jpg.gifhttp://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/images/attach/jpg.gif[/DLMURL]
measured up....lead 27mm lower copper pipe1/2" wet side input pipe 15mm.
Could the old 1/2" pipe have been the reason why I couldn't get a water tight seal all along. I have lots of olives but didn't recognise the possible diameter disparity issues & maybe used a 15mm or even the wrong stopcock!.
Hey, once again,thanks again for all the help

main (Medium).jpg


lead2 014 (Medium).jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
No offence mate but with the last post your obviously way out of your depth. Get a pro to do it.
 
Well if he can't afford it, he can't afford it. If it's a case of choosing between getting this paid for or eating and paying your rates I can understand why he wants to do it himself..

You didn't really get the jist of most of my points axzed but these things aren't so easy to explain, we're plumbers not writers. Whereabouts are you? If you're anywhere near me I'll give you a hand for free.
 
Where do you get the idea about lead pipe from? All I can see from the picture is what looks like some 3/4" (or may be 22mm) copper pipe coming out of the ground, wrapped in Denso Tape, then a 3/4" straight connector with a 3/4" x 1/2" reducer fitted, then 15mm or 1/2" pipe sticking out.

If it were me I would attempt to desolder the 3/4" or 22mm coupling, clean the pipe end, use a 3/4" x 22mm or 22mm straight depending on what the bottom pipe is, with a 22x15 reducer and about 6 inches of 15mm pipe and solder the whole lot up.
 
Hopefully not gas by look of inner pipework and not to many gas pipes leak water,although possible I know but not in the amounts here :)

I am sticking to the post I gave a week ago :eek:

Think a little irish jig will help put job in perspective

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bv0GVf_sSpo]YouTube - Flump's Irish Jig[/ame]

If you can not sort out by now defiantly time to call some one in and do not give the old 'can not afford it',it is not going to cost a arm and leg :(
 
Hi,
I am sending this from the Intensive Despair Unit of UCL Hospital.
Turns out it was a Toxic Waste overflow from a CERTAIN PLUMBERS FORUM and I am now fighting for my life after being covered in bile, venom and putrid indignation!
The only antidote was a shot of H20TITE that has magical recuperation properties and cannot be praised highly enough.http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=462&stc=1&d=1269117647
 

Attachments

  • endof 002 (Medium).jpg
    endof 002 (Medium).jpg
    89.2 KB · Views: 75
axzed said:
Hi,
I am sending this from the Intensive Despair Unit of UCL Hospital.
Turns out it was a Toxic Waste overflow from a CERTAIN PLUMBERS FORUM and I am now fighting for my life after being covered in bile, venom and putrid indignation!
The only antidote was a shot of H20TITE that has magical recuperation properties and cannot be praised highly enough.http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=462&stc=1&d=1269117647
Click to expand...



haha, congrats and get over yourself :)
 
Only joking.

Job done!

Water Tight - THANK YOU for your charitable offer and your deductive and sympathetic disposition.

I did feel a mercenary bias was motivating a few
posts.

I believe trade secrets and closed shops that hold 'have a goers' to ransom are antisocial. If someone earns the equivalent hourly rate, they can trade, no

problem. If you haven't the means, are handy and find it's not rocket science, you may have little option other than have a go.

If the job demands expensive tools, serious knowledge or could be a liability to others, then it is a different issue.

I have plumbed in bathrooms, WCs, showers (when it was permissible) and utilities. I have re fretted and fixed guitars, repaired lots of electrical gear, changed car engines, fitted odd double glazing and so I thought a leaking stopcock was no big deal until I was thwarted by a problem that would not normally arise I guess it was fatigued/old/brittle cracked pipe that was the issue. So, I needed to analyse how joints actually sealed. I originally asked only a couple of questions & these were not specifically addressed such that I could eliminate them as possibly being the problem.
I knew nothing aboutall the mains to stopcock options

Thanks to all who offered help, info and advice.

I ask, what do you say now to all those that salted the forum with unfounded worst case scenarios seemingly motivated by a penchant for open cast mining and pursuing funds for the brotherhood.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
axzed said:
Only joking.


I ask, what do you say now to all those that salted the forum with unfounded worst case scenarios seemingly motivated by a penchant for open cast mining and pursuing funds for the brotherhood.
Click to expand...


lol its been fixed what ? couple of hours, dont blow ya trumpet yet me old pal lol....

seriously though, you were on about lead connections and all sorts... when all it needed was de-sweating new piece of pipe and re-soldering? like most of us said lead locks can be tempremental when fitted incorrectly so advised proffesional as you were saying it was definatly lead... when there was no sign of this of your pics so lads told you to dig deeper.... think a lot were unconvinced of your ability due to the content of your posts - but congrats matey job well done - saved you what 40-60 quid.... not sure how much youve valued the last so many days trying to fix it, but you seem happy enough so good on ya :)
 
looks like stopcock is the wrong way round to me !!!


only kidding,well done,have 1/2 a bottle of stout to celebrate :p:)
 
Observations thus - in your original photos, despite your assurances to the contrary, you have fitted the stopcock backwards. Any "old salt" can immediately see the offset on the body and know its wrong, compare it to your last pic which is clearly the other way round. Secondly, you go to all the trouble of fixing it and then re-fit an old stopcock (quote- dug out an old one, unseized it .....). Thirdly, when you originally changed the stopcock was it not patently obvious the type of joint you were dealing with re: olive/flange/washer. This thread degenerated into a ridiculous discussion mainly because you didn't have a clue what you were talking about.

I wouldn't rely on getting any more advice on this forum if I were you matey.
 
Should now also have a drain off above stop tap.
 
' dont blow ya trumpet' Actually, it's got a stuck valve - see Brass & Spittle Forum.
'I wouldn't rely on getting any more advice on this forum if I were you matey'.
Looks like the 'toxic overflow' is still leaking!
That's not nice now is it? You sound offended and that was never my intent.
I couldn't initially expose the olive/union to determine whatever it was until I later realised it may be the problem to focus on & as I said, my eyesight is impaired.
In desperation, I reversed the stopcock to see if the other side would make a non leaking joint. ('assurances to the contrary' Did I?)
're-fit an old stopcock' It was the most expedient option - I didn't stock a new one. It can easily be changed later.
'This thread degenerated into a ridiculous discussion mainly because you didn't have a clue what you were talking about.' See my answer, Yep, I did not kinow whether union or olive & my question was never addressed.
Time -I spent ages searching for my torch & eventually made a hose plus I had other agendas, including work.
'saved you what 40-60 quid'.. If I have further problems, I will hold you to that as a firm quote.
'drain off above stop tap' ......I have a garden hose tap (with anti back syphon) that will suffice.
'oh ffs i find this stuff tedious' ..........wait till you see the film - Brad Pitt plays me.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Not offended at all, just think your a bit of a smart a**e and that definately wont go down well with any pro's that I know.
 
Apologies if I inadvertantly upset anyone.


smart a*se
  1. (idiomatic) One who is particularly flippant or insolent or tends to make snide remarks or jokes.
smart a*se ......Not really, nor rude, personal and certainly not disdainful if not slightly contemptuously judgemental, especially of of those from whom I was seemingly extended the friendly offer of help.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Brilliant.

Did he ever make a mountain out of a molehill. Finally after he's stopped banging on about the mystery invisible lead pipe, he fixed it but put in an old stopcock, and fitted it in reverse.

Genius. Can't remember who offered their help for free, but bless you.
 
New posts
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to Compression joint leak hassle. in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

B
Brass tap body is leaking.
I have attached an image of the brass body within a tap. Having replaced a cartridge which has cured a leaking tap, I can see that there is a small leak from the brass body which can be unscrewed. Is there a seal behind the body? Thanks.
Replies
2
Views
279
Bp89
B
W
Outdoor Tap at Porch
Hi, basic question, any insight much appreciated. Looking to have an outdoor tap in my front porch fed from 15mm pex coming up from suspended floor. Pic 1 is inside porch, pex temporarily clipped to give an idea of pipe placement (ignore shoddy blockwork of booted cowboy builder!), Pic 2 is...
Replies
6
Views
216
Dave Moore
D
A
copper vs pushfit pipes
Copper pipes, I think its fair to say, is not what it used to be, the copper is getting thin while the cost is going up. Meanwhile, plastic Pushfit seems to be getting better and better, cost and convenience was always better, but now the quality is to, have we reached a stage where plastic will...
Replies
2
Views
226
Chuck
C
dreikher
Hole in copper pipe, solder under floor, T coupling & protection
I was stupid enough not to check the position of the pipes under the tiles when installing a toilet and drilled right through the center of a 16 mm copper water pipe. I exposed the pipe by removing a ~30cm section of the plastic sleeve and a ~10 cm section of the pipe around the hole. Several...
Replies
0
Views
166
dreikher
dreikher
D
Covering shallow sewer pipe under concrete Patio
Hello all, I’m replacing a concrete paving slab patio in the back yard. The original patio used 50mm deep concrete slabs on hardcore & sand. I’m planning to pour a 100mm deep concrete patio on 100mm hardcore. In order to achieve the same final height to line up with the rest of the patio, I...
Replies
6
Views
203
DIwhYdidIstartThis
D
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock