Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

stevie t said:

Always carry a tub of plumbers mait in your van it comes in v handy at times. For example when changing a syphon on a close coupling toilet you notice the spongey flange that sits between the cisterin and the pan is shot to bits its easier to make one up with your plumbers mait than leave the job and run back to the plumbers merchants for a new flange. You can never go wrong extra PTFE either. Better lookin at it than for it!

All work guaranteed till cheque clears... lol

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stevie t said:

If you need to replace a gasket on a boiler, say around the burner, cos the old one disentegrates once removed (which happens) and your supplier wont have them for a day or 2 go to your nearest garage/car workshop and buy a sheet of gasket fibre and make your own using the old one as a template. It does the same job! Same applies to oil fire burner gaskets.

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stevie t said:

If you need to replace a gasket on a boiler, say around the burner, cos the old one disentegrates once removed (which happens) and your supplier wont have them for a day or 2 go to your nearest garage/car workshop and buy a sheet of gasket fibre and make your own using the old one as a template. It does the same job! Same applies to oil fire burner gaskets.

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GQuigley67 said:

have done this type of thing before on plumbing, wouldnt entertain it though on boilers

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stevie t said:

Pipe splicers are handy for cutting copper pipe however if theres water in the pipework theres no going back. Alternatively a hacksaw slightly cuts into the pipe at first. When in doubt use a hacksaw!

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stevie t said:

Pipe splicers are handy for cutting copper pipe however if theres water in the pipework theres no going back. Alternatively a hacksaw slightly cuts into the pipe at first. When in doubt use a hacksaw!

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WHPES said:

Even better drill a small hole in it and if its still full screw a self tapping screw in wrapped with PTFE to stop the water.

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tweakyboy said:

Or just put a small slice in the pipe with a hacksaw and if there is still water in it wrap some insulation tape around the pipe. Saves fiddling about with a screw and no doubt you will end up loosing it in the insulation!

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system3 said:

When using a flexi bath overflow tube for a combined waste and overflow that is going to be way out of reach, say on a double ended bath and in the centre of the bath at the back wall, for extra security, fix it with a jubilee clip. Never comes off and gives peace of mind.

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WHPES said:

Tutorial - How to remove an immersion element which has been stuck in with jointing compound:

Time - Approx 1/2 hour from draining.

1, drain to below level of element

2, remove all cover, thermostat, wires etc

3, make a saw cut across top with hacksaw as in the first picture, down to the gasket but be careful not to cut through the gasket or you will damage the face which the gasket seals onto. Make another saw cut at about 45 degrees to the first.

4, with a 3mm drill, drill a series of holes across the face of the element joining the saw cuts and going round the thermostat hole and element terminals.

5, use a 5mm drill to enlarge the holes so that a continuous gap is created across the face.

6, next we need to cut through the vertical sides of the element cap where the threaded section is (first picture). Work a hacksaw blade along the gaps to clear out and parts between the drill holes. Next cut into the threaded part, being careful not to cut beyond the thread or you will cut deep into the cylinder thread and risk damaging the cylinder.

7. with a pair of grips, try to pry out the 45 degree segment. Once you have cut through enough thread you should be able to remove this (second picture). Once removed, you should be able to squash the remaining sides of the element top together to free from the cylinder and unscrew.

8, With a wire brush and miniature screwdriver, clean out the threads on the cylinder and clean any jointing compound from the mating face.

View attachment 2100View attachment 2101

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Phil said:

Siphon swap, seized wingnuts?

If the wingnuts can't be turned with grips then I've found the best way is to take a paint scraper or other thin implement and heat the end with your blowlamp until its hot enough to melt plastic and then slide it in and cut through the siphon tail.

Cistern's off in 2 seconds which will leave part of the siphon and the close couple bracket still attached, however the bolts can now be attacked with access from the top which is much much easier.

Depending on how tight the bolts have been done up etc you may need to carefuly play about with a chisel/lever to open up the gap between the bottom of the cistern and the close couple bracket in order to expose the tail. Also works with hacksaw blade, whether heated or not.

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system3 said:

Use a cutting of white 15mm Speedfit pipe as a spacer on pipe clips that need fixed further out from the wall. Works really well on the pipe clips for 32mm and 40mm waste pipe where a spacer isn't available to buy. Using longer screws going through two 75mm pieces of Speedfit pipe top and bottom of the pipe clip on the waste pipe I was fitting outside today, I was able to clear a gas pipe without using extra bends.
For copper pipe I use the Talon ones.

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