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armyash

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
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In the middle of an ensuite upgrade. Have fitted the wall boards instead of tiles.

Room will need decorating afterwards. We have cut/knocked the coving out in the shower area so we can fit the boards to the ceiling.

Customer is not having the ceiling skimmed or anything, said they will just be painting it.

I know they are going to moan about the coving need making good. Obviously we will be scraping the lumps out won't leave it as it but I can still see there being an issue.

What can we use to make it look presentable?

I did put in the quote that all decorating is down to customer and needs to be done when we are finished. - saves us putting up with customer coming in and scraping wall paper off while we're trying to fit the enclosure around them. But I can see their point if they argue we've messed their ceiling.

See photos.

Thanks

IMG_20190613_150603.jpg
 
That was the plan hammer but It would have sat too proud and would have stood out too much.

Hard to tell that from the photos but the boards were a lot thicker.
 
Screwfix do a fancy plastic stick on trunking called D line quarter trunking covers that i reckon
 
Screwfix do a fancy plastic stick on trunking called D line quarter trunking covers that i reckon

Will check it out thanks. Its of those where we could argue the toss but for the sake of not getting a bad name I want to sort it. Guy I'm working with reckons just clean it up and let them deal with it. My name on the job so doing it my way.
 
I know it doesn’t help now, but for next time. Fit up to the bottom square edge of the coving - sometimes that will be just fine as is. In a case like yours where the board sticks out proud- put another piece of edging trim along the top and mitre the corner of the trim. It looks really tidy this way.
That is a big ugly trim too, get the small square edge trim that just laps around 4/5 mil.
 
To get over that abortion I think I would remove the remains of the coving in that corner and attach some flat board / soffit on the appropriate width, attach it to the ceiling and butt it up to your boards.
 
TBH any decent decorator will be able to sort that

Remove the rest of the coving e
 
Remove the remains of the coving
You might be able to fill and paint to blend it in.

Or cut a few strips of plasterboard to follow the line of the coving and butt up to the shower panels
 
I know it doesn’t help now, but for next time. Fit up to the bottom square edge of the coving - sometimes that will be just fine as is. In a case like yours where the board sticks out proud- put another piece of edging trim along the top and mitre the corner of the trim. It looks really tidy this way.
That is a big ugly trim too, get the small square edge trim that just laps around 4/5 mil.

That is the small trim but we have had to flip it over and have the bigger face on show. Not clear from the photos but the other board meets the door frame and if we used it the way it's supposed to go won't get enough movement on it to hide any gaps where the door frame is a bit skew-iff. But yes looks a bit ugly.

Thanks for the advice on making good.
 
To get over that abortion I think I would remove the remains of the coving in that corner and attach some flat board / soffit on the appropriate width, attach it to the ceiling and butt it up to your boards.

The remainder of the coving in the corner is coming out first thing.
 
Ok.
Again for next time, you’re better off scribing the board to the architrave and then run a small bead of silicone. Where the board goes higher than the frame, usually 300 or so, just trim thus small section of edge - trust it looks neater.
 
The remainder of the coving in the corner is coming out first thing.
If it’s 12mm or 9mm off the ceiling you could try a handy board and add strips to blend it all in. Would need some white paint though to look acceptable
 
Evening Armyash, I do loads of wall panelling and normally finish on underside of coving and fit 'J' trim and caulk if necessary (see below not best pic). However in your situation I'd carefully remove rest of coving and stick a 25-30mm white PVC cloaking piece around (can buy 5m length from Eurocell or similar for £5).
ATB Jim
20190607_173718.jpg
 
tbh it looks worse than it is
 
Evening Armyash, I do loads of wall panelling and normally finish on underside of coving and fit 'J' trim and caulk if necessary (see below not best pic). However in your situation I'd carefully remove rest of coving and stick a 25-30mm white PVC cloaking piece around (can buy 5m length from Eurocell or similar for £5).
ATB Jim
View attachment 39155

Thanks.
 
What’s the best way to sit the panels onto a tray or bath?
The trim some company’s sell looks a bit naff
 
What’s the best way to sit the panels onto a tray or bath?
The trim some company’s sell looks a bit naff

This one the boards are floor to ceiling and the tray up to the boards. Got one next week and the tray is going in first. I think we are going to just cut the boards to fit and sit them on tray and seal up.
 
Method is this.

Fit tray/bath as normal and seal it to the wall.

Sit board on three 1 mm packers, leave these until adhesive dry, then remove and silicone up. Pump the 3mm gap full and finish with a smoothing tool ( I use the 8mm chamfer which gives approx 5 mm coverage).
The reason for three 1 mm packers and not a single 3 mm packer is so you don’t break a piece of the laminate face off when you remove them.
Slide out the middle one of the three, then press down and the others should come out easily- yes I learnt this the hard way , got away with superglue and custard never knew! But I could see I may not be lucky next time so developed the above method.

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!
If you are in a hurry then leave the packers in, cut them flush with the board with sharp chisel and then just press them back a few mil so they’re hidden by silicone ( you shouldn’t have to do this and I would really advise against siliconing the same day as fixing the boards.)
 
Method is this.

Fit tray/bath as normal and seal it to the wall.

Sit board on three 1 mm packers, leave these until adhesive dry, then remove and silicone up. Pump the 3mm gap full and finish with a smoothing tool ( I use the 8mm chamfer which gives approx 5 mm coverage).
The reason for three 1 mm packers and not a single 3 mm packer is so you don’t break a piece of the laminate face off when you remove them.
Slide out the middle one of the three, then press down and the others should come out easily- yes I learnt this the hard way , got away with superglue and custard never knew! But I could see I may not be lucky next time so developed the above method.

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!
If you are in a hurry then leave the packers in, cut them flush with the board with sharp chisel and then just press them back a few mil so they’re hidden by silicone ( you shouldn’t have to do this and I would really advise against siliconing the same day as fixing the boards.)

Quality info. Will use that on the bathroom next week.

What do you use to stick the boards with?
 
Tray up to boards is not good, that’s only for showrooms!

First time I've fitted these boards. Bloke I'm doing the job with has done a lot more than me so have followed his lead on that. Wrongly possibly.
 
Geocel the works, or stixall are the two I use depending on availability.
Dow Corning 785 in the tongue groove joints.
I don’t use the internal corners, nice tight scribe and plane, then thin bead silicone .
All cut with handsaw and plane up to line.
 
Sticks like **** I use when I have to do the panels
 
Plasterer I know said he will skim the whole ceiling for £160 if the coving is taken down.

Might be better off doing that.
 
To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!

If ceiling is bad you mearsure every 50mm, wow must be a cabinet maker....:D
 
Method is this.

Fit tray/bath as normal and seal it to the wall.

Sit board on three 1 mm packers, leave these until adhesive dry, then remove and silicone up. Pump the 3mm gap full and finish with a smoothing tool ( I use the 8mm chamfer which gives approx 5 mm coverage).
The reason for three 1 mm packers and not a single 3 mm packer is so you don’t break a piece of the laminate face off when you remove them.
Slide out the middle one of the three, then press down and the others should come out easily- yes I learnt this the hard way , got away with superglue and custard never knew! But I could see I may not be lucky next time so developed the above method.

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!
If you are in a hurry then leave the packers in, cut them flush with the board with sharp chisel and then just press them back a few mil so they’re hidden by silicone ( you shouldn’t have to do this and I would really advise against siliconing the same day as fixing the boards.)

Platerer's need re=educating, straight edge's, derby's, get it flat man!!
 
It would be better to leave it slightly proud of the coving in my opion. I just did one I cad the ceiling In plastic from eurocell as Ben gee's recommendation add j trim to finish it if you just want to do the shower area stick up with silicone and staple the tounge before fixing another board . Cheers Kop

IMG_20190523_175535.jpg


IMG_20190523_175510.jpg


IMG_20190528_152748.jpg
 
Last edited:
It would be better to leave it slightly proud of the coving in my opion. I just did one I cad the ceiling In plastic from eurocell as Ben gee's recommendation add j trim to finish it if you just want to do the shower area stick up with silicone and staple the tounge before fixing another board . Cheers Kop

View attachment 39162

View attachment 39163

View attachment 39164
Looks really tidy KOP, what is height of top edge of shower tray 120mm?
Cheers Jim
 

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