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Macerator advice for newbie

Discuss Macerator advice for newbie in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Lucy387

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18
Hi there,

I’m having a new bathroom installed and the awkward shape of room means that the best option is to move the toilet and fit a macerator.

I have chosen for a corner toilet as it’s the best space-saving option, but would appreciate some words of advice and wisdom when it comes to the macerator.

There is very little space behind the corner toilet to accommodate a macerator and I am struggling to find a macerator with suitable dimensions.
Can I place the macerator long-ways against the wall and run a flexible pipe from the spigot to the macerator? It would be about 1ft/
1 1/2ft long.
Or does the macerator need to be directly attached to the toilet spigot?

Advice gratefully received! I am not a plumber, just a home-owner who is trying to learn the most basic of basics! ☺️
 
rpm said:
Any make & model in mind Lucy?
Click to expand...

Well, I haven't decided on one yet as it all depends on whether I am restricted to having it behind the toilet or not. But I was initially looking at the SaniAccess 2
SANIACCESS 2 – SANIFLO

But it won't fit behind the toilet so if I can't add a flexible hose, then I will need to find a more compact one. It is for my main bathroom so will get a fair amount of usage.

@CBW1982 suggested this one which could be a good option.
Uniflo-Flush Hide Away Macerator Pump 22mm discharge
 
If it’s going to get a lot of use I would think seriously about a different layout or getting 4” soil to it.
Have you had a decent bathroom designer look at your options?
A macerator is really for for when NO other options are available , as I sure ( most) people on here would agree.
 
Lucy387 said:
Hi there,

I’m having a new bathroom installed and the awkward shape of room means that the best option is to move the toilet and fit a macerator.

I have chosen for a corner toilet as it’s the best space-saving option, but would appreciate some words of advice and wisdom when it comes to the macerator.

There is very little space behind the corner toilet to accommodate a macerator and I am struggling to find a macerator with suitable dimensions.
Can I place the macerator long-ways against the wall and run a flexible pipe from the spigot to the macerator? It would be about 1ft/
1 1/2ft long.
Or does the macerator need to be directly attached to the toilet spigot?

Advice gratefully received! I am not a plumber, just a home-owner who is trying to learn the most basic of basics! ☺️
Click to expand...

Just had a thought in relation to what Ben-gee said, what is your current set-up? Any photos? Maybe we can suggest to help you based on that?
 
Wow, really kind of you all, thanks.
Well, I would love to get a bathroom designer, but am on a very tight budget (first home etc) and all the quotes I received were way above my price range.
So I've had some advice from the bathroom fitter, who said that the main problem is the distance that I want to move the toilet. He said that I wouldn't get the fall on the soil pipe and that a macerator would be the best option.
I have attached a drawing (not to scale but dimensions of the room included).
I have the new bath suite, so am fairly fixed on the smaller, deeper tub and corner toilet.
Would also have to be an internal soil pipe otherwise it would run across the front of my house. Plumber said there would be room for it, the only issue is creating the fall.

Bathroom.jpg
 
I’m just inquisitive, why all the moving? Any reason why (I’ve attached amended drawing) toilet can’t go where I’ve highlighted blue, the soaking tub/shower go where green,and sink in one of the yellows?

B2DEC297-01BC-4610-BAC8-FC4D55920545.jpeg
 
CBW1982 said:
I’m just inquisitive, why all the moving? Any reason why (I’ve attached amended drawing) toilet can’t go where I’ve highlighted blue, the soaking tub/shower go where green,and sink in one of the yellows?

View attachment 38969
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, the tub is too wide to go there. It would leave me with barely a foot at the side to walk through to reach the toilet. It’s bad enough now with a 680mm wide bath. Soaking tub is 900 x 1150. Opted for a shorter, deeper bath so it could go in the alcove where the existing toilet is.

CE8C2B49-C8A7-4B2E-BB81-91BDE169D16A.jpeg
 
Which way do your joists run and are any of the walls of the bathroom outside wallS
 
Lucy387 said:
Unfortunately, the tub is too wide to go there. It would leave me with barely a foot at the side to walk through to reach the toilet. It’s bad enough now with a 680mm wide bath. Soaking tub is 900 x 1150. Opted for a shorter, deeper bath so it could go in the alcove where the existing toilet is.

View attachment 38975
Click to expand...

Would that boxing in have to go when new bath installed? If not, why not run soil pipe through that? I don’t see how fall is much of an issue.
 
There is space behind the boxing in and the pipe would fit behind the bath.
The plumber said that the only issue was creating enough fall so he asked me to find a toilet with a high outlet. When I couldn’t find one, he said I’d need to have a macerator.
So in your opinion, can I get away with having a normal toilet and running the soil pipe internally along the wall and boxing it in? It would run for about 2 1/2 metres, including around two corners, from the toilet to the soil stack. Are you saying that the fall isn’t a problem?

Thanks again for your advice!
 
I just said I couldn’t see the fall being a problem, obviously wouldn’t know without being able to see it for myself. If you were to contact a supplier or look up on google, a high outlet toilet, you would probably find one. In my opinion, I would always try gravity systems first (less cost and complications generally).
 
Personally I'd look at a 900 square shower in the alcove - no bath. Build the end wall out to 900mm which would then leave room for a soil pipe from the wc mounted where the bath end is. The sink could go along the LH wall. By using a Novellini bifold door (they fold ALL the way back) access to the shower is full and free.
 
If budget is tight then be sure to factor in the cost of calling a plumber out whenever someone even gives the saniflo a dirty look and it gets blocked... (many plumbers won't touch them when they're blocked - which is understandable) :eek:
 
Back to my first point, you just need a decent designer or experienced bathroom fitter to help you. It really is possible to sort this without a macerator.
Whereabouts are you?
 
WC1 said:
If budget is tight then be sure to factor in the cost of calling a plumber out whenever someone even gives the saniflo a dirty look and it gets blocked... (many plumbers won't touch them when they're blocked - which is understandable) :eek:
Click to expand...
Now you're scaremongering the op! Depending on which make and model, possibly the hardness of local water, the installation and not asking it to deal with items it wasn't designed for it could last 15yrs without trouble.
 
So is there a way of having the layout I want and having the toilet plumbed in without a macerator?

The current problem is that the new loo and the existing outlet are the same height so the plumber said it wouldn’t create any fall. He said to find a toilet with a high outlet (at least 220mm), but I couldn’t find one despite asking the local suppliers, so then he said a macerator would be my best option.
But what if a new hole is made into the soil stack, say 2 or 3 inches lower than it currently is, and running an internal soil pipe to it? That would give me a fall of 2 or 3 inches across 2.5m. Would that be possible?
 
Lucy387 said:
So is there a way of having the layout I want and having the toilet plumbed in without a macerator?

The current problem is that the new loo and the existing outlet are the same height so the plumber said it wouldn’t create any fall. He said to find a toilet with a high outlet (at least 220mm), but I couldn’t find one despite asking the local suppliers, so then he said a macerator would be my best option.
But what if a new hole is made into the soil stack, say 2 or 3 inches lower than it currently is, and running an internal soil pipe to it? That would give me a fall of 2 or 3 inches across 2.5m. Would that be possible?
Click to expand...

It would be possible, but obviously need to repair old hole then. Your plumber has probably already done this, but have you measured the floor to centre of existing soil pipe and toilet and your new one?
 
It really is simple to sort.
1) raise the pan outlet height.
Or
2) lower the soil connection height.

1) is achieved by building a plinth.
In your case I would raise the whole floor from half way along the corridor part. One step should suffice , the wc and basin would be on this raised floor - it would also have the effect on making it easier to get into the bath.

2) yes this can be done, obviously we can’t see how in your case but trust me it can. That’s why I keep saying you need a decent experienced set of eyes on the job.

I have just lowered the branch on a soil stack by 1 1/2 “ to give s proper fall on a lavatory. The lady has lived there for 35 years, had this lavatory changed three times and it’s never flushed properly. She can’t believe how it is now , and all for the sake of a days labour.
 
Hi @rpm sorry if it came across as just scaremongering ,was meant to be advisory. Op stated they were could not afford professional advise which may help them avoid a sani. My point was that this is possibly a false economy. As for sani blocking easily, you are correct they only usually block when badly installed or abused. I find it often takes several "incidents" before the message hits home and people stop putting tampons, qtips, wet wipes etc down the loo and this is a cost to be factored in. Anyway, "onwards and upwards" as they say (saniflo related humour):D
 
Most plumbing components go wrong at some point. Electro mechanical devices usually the
worst. Gravity is free and rarely goes wrong. I would re design your bathroom along these principles...Complicated is easy...simple is hard. Especially when your macerator jams up when the blades go blunt or the lecky goes off. These units are meant for supplementary bogs not the main one..install at your peril. Also purchase a good pair of gauntlets and nose pegs to clear the thing out when it does go LALA. Rob Foster aka centralheatking
 
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