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Discuss identifying and replacing a radiator in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi all..

First post is usually somebody needing something.. apologies this is the same. Hopefully I can help someone on here with computer technology.

I am quite handy around most things and am not frightened to even to some soldering if I have to. But a straight swap is going to be less trouble?

I have a conventional central heated radiator in the bathroom.. It is corroded at the bottom seam and I want to replace it before it goes (on holiday.. Eeeek!)
nut.jpg side.jpg top.jpg

I can't see a name on the radiator but the vent nut says stelrad on it but I don't have enough experience to know if this just happens to be any vent nut fitted... Do you think it is is a stelrad? (can you still buy them.) If i bought a different make would they have their fittings in a different place?

Also I 'think' I can drain it via what looks like a vertical tube by the locking off valve?

I seem to have 10mm microbore copper piping.. will the fittings in the photo fit any radiator I buy or do you buy a radiator that takes my 10mm fittings..

So many questions.. sorry
 
Just measure the height and with of the radiator (not including the valves or pipes)
You have a type 21 panel.
Should be numerous stockists for what you want
 
Just measure the height and with of the radiator (not including the valves or pipes)
You have a type 21 panel.
Should be numerous stockists for what you want


Wow that was quick!
Is this Stelrad you can get in most places or a compatible one?
in your experience will the fittings be in the same place?

Thanks for taking the time to reply. :)
 
If you can find the same brand of the radiator, you may not have to change the wall brackets.
If yiou change brands, you will definately have to change the wall brackets.
It's not a big job
 
10mm pipework will at least give you a little flexibility if required
 
10mm pipework will at least give you a little flexibility if required

Thanks for the reply.

I see from a quick search you can still buy Stelrad but they are branded softline and have covers around them.. I don't mind that if they have the same dimensions for the fittings.. easy is best even if a little more expensive, do you think?
 
I’d say far easier just to hang a new one than waste time hunting. There is no guarantee that the new rad has the same fittings as designs change
 
I’d say far easier just to hang a new one than waste time hunting. There is no guarantee that the new rad has the same fittings as designs change

Thanks. That's the impression I'm getting now.

Screwfix Kudox seem to be a good quality replacement. If I need to alter the microbore so be it.
Thanks
 
If you can get pretty much the same width then depending on where the pipework is coming from you should have movement in the pipe without too many headaches
 
Hi Chukka,

I've got similar issues with some of my rads (kitchen and bathroom of course) but not changed any yet, so thanks for your post.

I'd invest the time I think to learn to hang similar one that is readily available (because down the line you will prob have to do it at some point).

Make sure you have correct fitting drain key for the valve.

I guess you will find some free play in one of the pipes.

Now the bit that interests me. Assuming hanging bracket is a bit different, is there any clever way to get the new one in the right place ?

I'm thinking do a dummy mount on a piece of scrap board / surface, for both rads and play spot the difference in where the connections end up. Hopefully no big difference in offset from the wall (check that out).

I'd make sure you have bits and bobs to stop off the pipes, if you think it may take a day or two with time you have, and you need to run the heating for other rooms. (Then no pressure on you)

For the valve fittings three sizes involved:
a) You have 10mm pipe with compression fitting into the valve (Valve is prob 10mm but could be 15mm with an adapter)
b) The valve connection to the adapter is 15mm compression
c) The connection to the radiator is 1/2 inch BSP

Remember with BSP the 1/2 inch is the nominal internal diameter of the Male threaded part. Exact will depend on tube thickness.

Assume here your old rad is 1/2 BSP Females (check that and on one you buy). Which bits of the valve and adapter do you intend changing. (I would buy at least consider some spares even if on the day you decide not to use.)

Interesting question for the pros, which bit to undo first. Think I'd try the 15mm compression between the adapter and the valve. If you can get those undone and the rad off the wall, then unscrew the adapters from the rad outside. You can then clean up both ends of the adapter, unless corroded . . .

Of course try not to leave a trail of rusty water as you carry the rad outside. . .

(Sorry I'm not sure on this) One extra complication is whether BSP on the radiator is parallel or tapered. Following may help on understanding options:

How To Identify British Pipe Threads - V-Flow Solutions

Can't see a spec on the Kudox but if nobody knows here, you could ask a Q on the Screwfix Q&A, or buy it and see which (parallel, tapered) gives you best fit.

When redoing up the 15mm compression I'd use Fernox LSX sealer on that because not much room to get any PTFE tape in. Assume the rad BSP threaded should be done with PTFE although there seem to be alteernatives. (Anyone please correct me / advise best sealer there). For numbers of turns of PTFE tape if you choose that you will have to experiment (somewhere between 6 and 12 may be ?)

Very best of luck, and let us know how you get on,

Roy (DIYer)
 
Hmmm - I should have said the adapters that go into the radiators seem to be called "tails" . . .

I'm just looking at a spare one I've got here (from a rad valve I changed where I left the tail in place in the radiator).

Using an adjustable spanner (like one in my avatar photo) as a crude gauge on the outside of the tail adapter threads, it looks like a taper BSP to me, as it comes loose at the radiator end.

P.S. I use the same trick when buying copper pipe after a length I once had was found to be somewhat oval . . .
so didn't go into solder fittings. Course in a tight spot you can correct it in a vice . . .

Roy
 
Measuring is the trick it’s easy. Don’t over complicate things you need a radiator, two unions either 3/4” or 1/2” unless you are contemplating changing the radiator valves as well. Then all you need to do is measure out the various hanging points from the bottom of the radiator and Mark it up on the wall it really is that simple. Don’t worry about tapered threads etc if you buy a radiator valve it will fit your radiator. As a DIYEr PTFE may be your better option from a use perspective
 
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Measuring is the trick it’s easy. Don’t over complicate things you need a radiator, two unions either 3/4” or 1/2” unless you are contemplating changing the radiator valves as well. Then all you need to do is measure out the various hanging points from the bottom of the radiator and Mark it up on the wall it really is that simple. Don’t worry about tapered threads etc if you buy a radiator valve it will fit your radiator. As a DIYEr PTFE may be your better option from a use perspective

Wow.. all of this information is great!

I was planning on comparing the rears of the two radiator when i got the old one off. It seems that the bracket positioning is going to be different anyway. I did think of taping the new brackets to the back or the new Rad.. then offering it up to the wall (with help so as to get the height right with the fittings to the copper piping) then whilst in that position, marking the wall around the brackets. Then I'll know the hanging position is right.

The microbore is coming out of the wall behind the radiator rather than up out of the floor.. bit of leeway there.

Any special tools to take off the old fittings? I have adjustable plumber pliers and metric ring spanners PTFE tape.. also a laser level from another job.. might help aligning the unions before marking out?

Thanks again for all of the help.
 
Plumb Center stock stelrad. Yours is either an elite ( no side or top panels) or a compact ( with side and top panels) measure height ( will be 450mm or 600mm) the length of the rad will be a whole number, like 600mm, 700mm etc. You have a K1 ( single with fins on the rear)
 
Wow.. all of this information is great!

I was planning on comparing the rears of the two radiator when i got the old one off. It seems that the bracket positioning is going to be different anyway. I did think of taping the new brackets to the back or the new Rad.. then offering it up to the wall (with help so as to get the height right with the fittings to the copper piping) then whilst in that position, marking the wall around the brackets. Then I'll know the hanging position is right.

The microbore is coming out of the wall behind the radiator rather than up out of the floor.. bit of leeway there.

Any special tools to take off the old fittings? I have adjustable plumber pliers and metric ring spanners PTFE tape.. also a laser level from another job.. might help aligning the unions before marking out?

Thanks again for all of the help.

If you have helper then you can probably use method Riley gives (Perhaps devise some support underneath so your helper does not get long arms)

Mark position of old unions(tails) and valves on the wall before taking all to bits.

Remove the unions(tails) from radiator outside once you have got the rad off. You could gently heat the old rad at the connections with blow torch to help get them out if and only if they are fast. If too hard then get some new unions with the rad (put a cost on your time).

Good luck.

Roy
 
If you try and get another stelrad then the brackets should be identical. Doesn't matter if you get an elite/ compact/ softline.

You cab get them from a lot but not all plumbers merchants, around me plumb center can get them and city plumbing stock them but plumbase don't.

You can fit any radiator the same size there but stelrad would save changing the brackets
 
If you try and get another stelrad then the brackets should be identical. Doesn't matter if you get an elite/ compact/ softline.

You cab get them from a lot but not all plumbers merchants, around me plumb center can get them and city plumbing stock them but plumbase don't.

You can fit any radiator the same size there but stelrad would save changing the brackets

That does make it easier to choose thanks.. I could go with Screwfix Kudox and get a new TRV thrown in free .. but not sure if the fitting will be 15mm.. i need 10mm. I have just found out that the existing TRV doesn't work properly; is either on or off. (why doesn't anyone tell you these things?) on the other hand i have seen TRVs offered as both 10/15mm I don't understand that.
 
That does make it easier to choose thanks.. I could go with Screwfix Kudox and get a new TRV thrown in free .. but not sure if the fitting will be 15mm.. i need 10mm. I have just found out that the existing TRV doesn't work properly; is either on or off. (why doesn't anyone tell you these things?) on the other hand i have seen TRVs offered as both 10/15mm I don't understand that.

Trvs are either on or off. No inbetween.
 
Trvs are either on or off. No inbetween.

Sorry I want clear.. The TRV will come on full heat whether it is on low or highest. Only frost turns it off.
Maybe I dont understand how they work properly. I thought if the room got really warm it would turn the radiator off? Always pleased to learn more :)
 
Ah got you ok then if only the frost setting turns it off then yes more than likely needs replacing.

I thought you were going to say that when you turn it down to 3 it still stays the same temperature.
 
Ah got you ok then if only the frost setting turns it off then yes more than likely needs replacing.

I thought you were going to say that when you turn it down to 3 it still stays the same temperature.

LOL.. I can see why you said that.

ps. I'm looking for a replacement TRV that has native 10mm fittings to the microbore.. I can find loads that are 15mm with 10mm reducers.. but then my current 10mm compression nut won't fit... you have to use the supplied 15mm type nut with them. the there is the need to cut off the olive (if you can) just to get the reducer kit installed... all of my rad piping is horizontal with 10mm elbows to the valve rather than straight up out of the floor.

Rather use a 10mm fitting.. any pointers/stockist/model?

Thanks again
 
10mm.JPG
I would like to have another native 10mm fitting rather than 15 with reducer.. the lower nut to the copper pipe is around 19mm whereas the upper nut into the rad is 25mm. I'm presuming a 15mm fitting even with a reducer is going to have the larger nut than is currently on the system?
 

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