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This post just for interest/comment so please only read if you have spare time.
Following on from previous post soldering the elbow connection in the wall:
Loo Cold Feed and Overflow Rework / Soldering Precuations (Part 2)
. . . completed the 2nd fix plumbing as follows:
Note the felt lagging at left hand side to push on to pipe in the wall space.
Apologies I changed intended design day before, so didn't have time to post a sketch for advice first.
Questions:
1. What is best simpler design ? (Note very little space to LHS of loo - about six inch from pan edge to wall, thinking about future maintenance)
3. The extra brass straight compression is because I don't have professional hand/arm strength, so put a spanner on that and hold down with my foot, when changing the iso valve to RHS to make sure I don't put rotational force on the soldered elbow in the wall
I should buy Pegler isolation valves which have better flats on them (Don't have sufficient hand strength to use grips well)
Any comments, picture of your best design/parts would be educational for future.
Now onto the overflow plumbing, once I've stained the panel.
Many thanks all,
Roy
Following on from previous post soldering the elbow connection in the wall:
Loo Cold Feed and Overflow Rework / Soldering Precuations (Part 2)
. . . completed the 2nd fix plumbing as follows:
Note the felt lagging at left hand side to push on to pipe in the wall space.
Apologies I changed intended design day before, so didn't have time to post a sketch for advice first.
Questions:
1. What is best simpler design ? (Note very little space to LHS of loo - about six inch from pan edge to wall, thinking about future maintenance)
My thoughts: Simpler design might be (from the soldered elbow in wall) - all in one long hose with built in isolation valve. You just drop the hose off the loo if ever need to drain. What put me off is:
a) If have to change hose in future would have to fit blind by lying on side with arms above head. No space in room for a helper to make sure hose properly pushed on before doing up the compression at the end of the copper (Hmmm - unless could get hose with BSP both ends).
b) I'm not sure of reliability of longer hoses (Would need ~2 foot). A longer hose will move around more. I'm happy with standard 12 inch, bending by not more than about 90deg.
2. Munsen pipe supports are traditional type. I like them as a DIYer because you can change them easily later e.g. if bashed from wall (Slow to fit but maintainable). I note I've no support on the RHS to stop pipes shifting that way so may fit rubber edged wood block (Because the wood panel as a slight warp, and may continue to move, which will not be an issue with current munsen arrangement. I didn't intend the Munsen to LHS of drain valve, put added during assembly when I though things a bit wobbly before doing up the compresions.a) If have to change hose in future would have to fit blind by lying on side with arms above head. No space in room for a helper to make sure hose properly pushed on before doing up the compression at the end of the copper (Hmmm - unless could get hose with BSP both ends).
b) I'm not sure of reliability of longer hoses (Would need ~2 foot). A longer hose will move around more. I'm happy with standard 12 inch, bending by not more than about 90deg.
3. The extra brass straight compression is because I don't have professional hand/arm strength, so put a spanner on that and hold down with my foot, when changing the iso valve to RHS to make sure I don't put rotational force on the soldered elbow in the wall
I should buy Pegler isolation valves which have better flats on them (Don't have sufficient hand strength to use grips well)
Any comments, picture of your best design/parts would be educational for future.
Now onto the overflow plumbing, once I've stained the panel.
Many thanks all,
Roy
