Search the forum,

Gas valve for hob behind cupboard.

Discuss Gas valve for hob behind cupboard. in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

M

Matt0029

Gas Engineer
Messages
1,136
When installing a gas hob the required isolation valve usually falls behind the cooker. That is removed by unscrewing 4 screws. I'm wondering if its seen acceptable by most to use a compression gas isolation valve in such a position. . Thanks
 
It’s not an end user valve, they would shut off the ECV in an emergency.
Fine to use a compression valve.

I was told this on a gas safe inspection
 
Fine behind the oven
 
These Hob installation instructions also say that the isolation valve should be accessible. This is the same pic that I posted in the other thread.

9932732C-A36B-407A-B032-043A0664887F.jpeg
 
But what would take longer, removing 4 screws or emptying 3 drawers full of pans and pottery or food tins/boxes? For as long as mans been installing integrated units, a gas cock has been behind a under worktop oven... gas or electric.
Like you said, it’s for servicing for a gas safe engineer.
 
How do we define 'accessible'?

That's all it needs to be to be able to use compression on Gas.

It is up to the on site Engineers discretion to define that, in that particular situation.

It's not always easy to make your mind up though, lol.
 
Last Plumber said:
How do we define 'accessible'?

That's all it needs to be to be able to use compression on Gas.

It is up to the on site Engineers discretion to define that, in that particular situation.

It's not always easy to make your mind up though, lol.
Click to expand...
I'd define something accessible if you can get it easily by using basic hand tools. A screwdriver to remove 4 screws and pull an oven out would be accessible in my opinion.
 
Harvest Fields said:
So then why doesn’t that count for flues in voids why can they not be screwed. Why do they have to be proper hatches?
Click to expand...

I’d imagine that a customer allowing internal decoration to be damaged from removing screw or even finding screws under wallpaper, would be very difficult. Where as purpose built hatches are easily accessible and hard to wall paper over o_O
 
Harvest Fields said:
So then why doesn’t that count for flues in voids why can they not be screwed. Why do they have to be proper hatches?
Click to expand...
Dont hatches only apply to flues that are inaccessible? That would again come down the engineer, if I came to a flue where the boxing could easily be removed by taking out a few screws I wouldn't class that flue as inaccessible.
 
bogrodder said:
I’d imagine that a customer allowing internal decoration to be damaged from removing screw or even finding screws under wallpaper, would be very difficult. Where as purpose built hatches are easily accessible and hard to wall paper over o_O
Click to expand...
But you could damage the oven or cupboard by removing the oven? Six of one and half a dozen of the other me thinks.
 
Craig Watson said:
Dont hatches only apply to flues that are inaccessible? That would again come down the engineer, if I came to a flue where the boxing could easily be removed by taking out a few screws I wouldn't class that flue as inaccessible.
Click to expand...

Lol, you tell Mrs Smith down the road, that you want to remove her 2 month old painted and caulked boxing.

You’ll get a quick feckoffski....
 
bogrodder said:
The scenario is ‘ the boxing has screws in it too’ covered in lovely fresh two month old paint, but to remove the panels, would require cutting the caulk and damaging the painted screw heads
Click to expand...
Instead of a brand be £700 electric oven she has just had fitted and you need to remove it to get to the gas tap for the hob.
 
bogrodder said:
The scenario is ‘ the boxing has screws in it too’ covered in lovely fresh two month old paint, but to remove the panels, would require cutting the caulk and damaging the painted screw heads
Click to expand...
But again this all comes down to the engineer, there is nothing concrete saying access hatches have to be used, if you can remove the boxing in a reasonable amount of time and without damaging any decor then I wouldn't personally say an access hatch is required.
 
Harvest Fields said:
Instead of a brand be £700 electric oven she has just had fitted and you need to remove it to get to the gas tap for the hob.
Click to expand...

Yep, I get what you mean HF. But really, how many times do you isolate the gas cock to work on it? I bet you turn off the ECV to stop the gas.
I all honesty, they’re just another item waiting to leak, when the grease dries up.... waste of time and money
 
I think that behind an inbuilt cooker is accessible.
I would use a compression Gas cock in that position.
These ovens are easily removed normally and by one man too.
I can have one out in less than two minutes but if it is a worry, put the Gas cock behind the next cupboard and drill a hole in that so it is visible.
When all is said and done the connection to the hob provided by manufacturers is a face joint with a fibre washer on one side and a male taper thread the other side. I know I have seen more leaking joints up there than leaking Gas cocks. Again, Engineers discretion.
At the end of the day there is no list of what is accessible or not.
It is the same for sparks. They can use joint boxes as long as they are accessible. Most of those are beneath carpets and floor boards with no clue of where they are. At least with a hob you can suspect that there is something to isolate it somewhere behind one of the cupboards.
 

Reply to Gas valve for hob behind cupboard. in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

N
Question about gas supply
Im fitting a kitchen in my own house . When removing the gas oven on a bayonet fitting and turned the gas hob off and removed a four burner gas hob. Ive noticed that the oven supply 15mm and the hob supply is 15mm but once the cupboard is out i can see the hob supply is 10mm in the wall. Which...
Replies
5
Views
540
richard978
R
D
Gas hob supply isolation options
Hi, I’m changing my kitchen and swapping from a gas hob to an electric induction hob. Rest assured, I have no intention of doing any work at all on the gas supply, I just have a question. Assuming we might want to go back to gas at some point in the future, it may be worth leaving an easy...
Replies
1
Views
764
ShaunCorbs
ShaunCorbs
PappyChef
LPG Jet for 1950s Cannon Gas grill
Our House is now fully Heat Pumped, insulated and we have had the Gas Meter Removed. We have a 1950s foldaway Cannon Gas Grill which is on the wall above the AEG Induction hob with 1 Gas burner. It worked very well on Natural gas. We have had the local gas co. install an LPG supply using...
Replies
3
Views
356
Sparkgap
Sparkgap
P
Installing a tigerloop combi-3 in new heating oil supply installation.
I’m replacing my single skin plastic oil tank with a new bunded oil tank. I’m going to replace the single 10mm pvc covered oil pipe too, so to keep the number of compression joints to a minimum, I’d like to fit an external tigerloop combi 3 de-aerator (the one that incorporates an isolation...
Replies
3
Views
434
PembrokeYeo
P
B
Noise from 8-Bar filling valve (Megaflo)
In our sealed Megalo system, when hot water tap is used (say in bathroom shower) the megaflo is taking in some fresh water, I guess to compensate for the water used. The incoming water go via a pressure relief valve [most likely its this one: Heatrae Sadia 8 Bar Pressure Relief Valve -...
Replies
4
Views
336
BenH
B
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock