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Discuss What best to replace this collection of fittings? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Help!

I have uploaded a photo of fittings that have been weeping, for a long time, beneath a sink in my daughters (recently moved in) house. The hot water had to be turned off because of big leak under floor. The pic shows tails from the mixer tap, beneath which is a stop valve, with no nuts to undo, then a compression fitting? Then a flex coupling, beneath that and not shown on the photo the flex coupling has a stop valve and compression fitting onto 15mm copper pipe.

This needs to be connected to new pipework 15 mm copper that diverts around the underfloor leak.

Suggestions please!
73803852-C96F-4989-800F-A929259F1772.jpeg
 
The stop valves (isolation valves) from the tap are pushfit.
Isolate the water elsewhere, open the tap to drop the pressure, press in the grey / black plastic rings on the valve and pull off.
 
The stop valves (isolation valves) from the tap are pushfit.
Isolate the water elsewhere, open the tap to drop the pressure, press in the grey / black plastic rings on the valve and pull off.
Brilliant, I thought that I might have to do. That .. I didn’t want to go in with brute force! I can then see if I can unscrew the copper tail so I can extend it.
 
Brilliant, I thought that I might have to do. That .. I didn’t want to go in with brute force! I can then see if I can unscrew the copper tail so I can extend it.

You could just join straight onto the copper tails so to avoid damaging them.
If you clean the copper tails ends you could use a couple of brass compression connectors if you wanted. If taps are replaced in the future, the tails will be renewed anyway
 
You could just join straight onto the copper tails so to avoid damaging them.
If you clean the copper tails ends you could use a couple of brass compression connectors if you wanted. If taps are replaced in the future, the tails will be renewed anyway
Thanks, That sounds the easiest way forward, that’s where an isolation valve could go.
 
Thanks, That sounds the easiest way forward, that’s where an isolation valve could go.

Really too high if fitted on those cut tails. I would fit the isolating valves lower down on the actual pipework.
You want the isolators to be permanent positioned and copper pipes rising from them. This gives plenty of easy options in future when replacing sink or tap.
Use full flow isolating valves
 
Remove the flexy hoses and use copper with iso valves then run copper pipe up from them to the tap (solder your copper connections)
 

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