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Discuss Half inch or 15mm pipe fittings question in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi folks

Need some help ASAP please. I cannot fully turn of the mains inside my property due to very old stopcock under kitchen sink.

Property has two stop cocks internally (house is 1930's build) with the first being made of lead on one side of stop valve and copper coming out of the other side (this stopcock is hidden under floor boards) Then there's a 2nd internal stopcock under kitchen sink which won't turn off properly but needs replacing regardless.

House is on communal stop tap in the street so would turn off five houses.

I want to cut into the copper pipe between the two stop cocks but cannot tell whether its half inch or 15mm

Question is:

1) If it's 1/2 inch copper how can I tell?
2) What would be the best method to connect to new 15mm copper - push fit or end feed solder?
3) If end feed, do I need special end feed couplings or just use 15mm?

Thanks very much all.

Martyn
 
1. 15mm pipe is almost exactly 15mm in diameter, 1/2" is a little larger in diameter. The best way to measure diameter is with a set of vernier calipers, but if you don't have these, then measure the circumference and divide by "pi" which is generally accepted as 3.14159. To measure the circumference wrap a strip of paper round the pipe with one edge in line. Cut the paper with a sharp knife (not cutting the copper), and measure the strip which was wrapped round the pipe. If it measures 47.1 mm the pipe is metric, if a bit more its 1/2"
2. I'd always prefer a soldered connection. However, the pipe must be completely dry to solder it, and if you can't turn off the under floor stop valve, you'll have to turn off the one in the street. If you are confident with soldering, go for it, otherwise consider a compression fitting, provided it is in an accessible place.
3. Not sure I understand the question. If you are replacing the above floor stop valve why not just turn the water off, undo the nuts on the above floor valve, remove it and replace it. Provided the old and new valves are the same length you shouldn't need to alter the pipe work.
 
I sympathise with your predicament... I learned about this the hard way when I didn't know much about what's available. You can't hammer a 15mm connector on to a 1/2" pipe and expect the solder to run, is the lesson you quickly learn. You can get adaptors for 15mm to half inch pipe, both in soldered and compression form. Why not just buy a couple so that you're prepared for the worst-case scenario? If you don't use them you can take them back for a refund in many retail outlets.
 
See if your water supplier will replace your lead main
 
Unless you are very confident, and if the water board won't do the work for you, then I'd suggest a plumber in to fit a new stopcock to the existing internal pipe. If you have to turn off five houses for half an hour, that'll have to be done. Give the neighbours warning and get the water board involved if they insist on being obstructive.

Using the external stopcock to allow maintenance to the internal one is, I would suggest, its intended purpose.
 
1. 15mm pipe is almost exactly 15mm in diameter, 1/2" is a little larger in diameter. The best way to measure diameter is with a set of vernier calipers, but if you don't have these, then measure the circumference and divide by "pi" which is generally accepted as 3.14159. To measure the circumference wrap a strip of paper round the pipe with one edge in line. Cut the paper with a sharp knife (not cutting the copper), and measure the strip which was wrapped round the pipe. If it measures 47.1 mm the pipe is metric, if a bit more its 1/2"
2. I'd always prefer a soldered connection. However, the pipe must be completely dry to solder it, and if you can't turn off the under floor stop valve, you'll have to turn off the one in the street. If you are confident with soldering, go for it, otherwise consider a compression fitting, provided it is in an accessible place.
3. Not sure I understand the question. If you are replacing the above floor stop valve why not just turn the water off, undo the nuts on the above floor valve, remove it and replace it. Provided the old and new valves are the same length you shouldn't need to alter the pipe work.

Thanks very much mate. I'll go with the compression fitting if too wet. Will a 15mm compression coupler be okay to use on half inch pipe?
 
Thank you all for your replies. I am happy to fit the stop valve as have had plumbing experience however just wanted to know if it's OK to use a 15mm coupler on 1/2 inch pipe?

I am also buying an end feed solder straight coupler which is 1/2 inch to 15mm just in case it is dry.
 
You should be fine might need to use a bit of sand paper to take any paint / high spots off etc

Try the olive first if that fits your golden
 
You should be fine might need to use a bit of sand paper to take any paint / high spots off etc

Try the olive first if that fits your golden

Thanks mate. I'll use a copper 15mm olive. So basically if the 15mm olive goes over the pipe it's all OK yeah? Should I use PTFE around the olive as belt and braces?
 
Thanks mate. I'll use a copper 15mm olive. So basically if the 15mm olive goes over the pipe it's all OK yeah? Should I use PTFE around the olive as belt and braces?

No you can use some jointing compound if you want to

And correct

Now depending on how cheap your fittings are you might need to use a round file on the nut
 
OK mate thanks again. What brand should I buy so that I don't have to file down?

Buy a conex brass connector. Expensive, but worth it.
They are good quality and the body of the fitting is a slacker fit on the pipe, so very suitable for the 1/2” pipe, plus the brass conex nuts are slack on pipe, unlike the nasty standard cheap fittings
 
Buy a conex brass connector. Expensive, but worth it.
They are good quality and the body of the fitting is a slacker fit on the pipe, so very suitable for the 1/2” pipe, plus the brass conex nuts are slack on pipe, unlike the nasty standard cheap fittings

Bless ya mate and thanks very much. Learning all time!
 
My water supplier did the rising main conversion from lead to copper some years ago... Can you believe they chopped off the lead pipe outside the house then used a lead-lok connector to attach the plastic incomer to the lead pipe... So I still have a short length of lead just outside my house. Apparently the pipe had been converted to copper on the INside of the building, jointed a couple of inches above floor level. I suppose the plumber thought that for quickness' sake it wouldn't matter that the pipe through the wall was left as lead.
 
My water supplier did the rising main conversion from lead to copper some years ago... Can you believe they chopped off the lead pipe outside the house then used a lead-lok connector to attach the plastic incomer to the lead pipe... So I still have a short length of lead just outside my house. Apparently the pipe had been converted to copper on the INside of the building, jointed a couple of inches above floor level. I suppose the plumber thought that for quickness' sake it wouldn't matter that the pipe through the wall was left as lead.

Yep normal for the waterboard
 
From a lil bit of experience on copper,,,, 1/2" - 15mm you can join, 1" - 28mm you can join (need to do a bit of filing, sanding, tapping etc :) sometimes ;):p:D)...........
3/4" - 22mm forget it, buy some 3/4" olives and some 3/4" - 22mm end feed or solder ring couplings, just don't allow it to slide when soldering :p.
 
Just as well the OP's working with 15mm then.

To be fair, most of my local merchants don't have 15mm-1/2" transition couplings, but I buy them mail order because I cannot be bothered to risk the chance that I'll find a half inch pipe somewhere I can't easily sand down, and having the right part somehow feels much more professional anyway.
 
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