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Hi all, I hope you can put my mind at ease please!

I have an unvented system at home and recently the gauge pressure reading has been above 3psi if I haven’t been home all day, up to 3.5. Previously it always stayed at or below 3psi. I was told before it shouldn’t go above 3.

Having checked the pressure valves they state 6psi though so was I told incorrect information? I’ve attached some pics.

Thanks in advance,
Dan

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Hi all, I hope you can put my mind at ease please!

I have an unvented system at home and recently the gauge pressure reading has been above 3psi if I haven’t been home all day, up to 3.5. Previously it always stayed at or below 3psi. I was told before it shouldn’t go above 3.

Having checked the pressure valves they state 6psi though so was I told incorrect information? I’ve attached some pics.

Thanks in advance,
Dan

View attachment 33685

View attachment 33686

View attachment 33687

This one shows the piping too!

48EE667A-DFCF-43A7-9740-C7C15066962C.jpeg
 
normally 3-3.5 bar (depending on what the prv is set to) is normal the water board could of upped your pressure
 
Thanks! By the valves though is it safe to go up to 6psi / when should I worry and call a plumber?
 
Thanks! By the valves though is it safe to go up to 6psi / when should I worry and call a plumber?

should stay around 3-3.5 bar, any time you see water coming through the black plastic tundish (follow the pipes from the red safety valves you should see a black thing) then you would need to call a g3 plumber

when was the last time you had the cylinder serviced?
 
Thanks. Yep I’ve seen that before and had to have some bits done to it (can’t remember what) but that was about 9 months ago.

Out of curiosity why is it between 3-3.5 If the red valves have 6psi or 7psi on them?

Thanks for your help!
 
The pressure relief valves are at bar pressure opening.
They are higher than operating pressure, so not to open at normal pressures, but will open at the higher pressures which are getting near units safety limit. There is also a heat limit release there.
There could be a fault causing slight increase of pressure and due to lack of proper service
Get your G3 service person to explain it to you while they service it now
 
Ah thanks.

So based on what I’ve sent it looks okay as long as it doesn’t go above 3.5? The tundish is fine.

Thanks!
 
Actually I now have doubt about that install. But I could be wrong, as photos don’t show it all.
Does the pipe with the stopcock drop down and connect to bottom of cylinder ?
 
I can’t download the video files on Apple, but maybe someone else will take a look at what the stopcock does
 
A few things I have noticed.
The stopcock I think should not be installed between the cylinder and the combination valve due to the relief valve would be isolated.
Also, -
The balanced cold could have been taken from combination balanced connection, rather than appearing to be taken after the combination valve
Also, -
Discharge pipes and tundish - where are they? Tundish must be within 600mm of cylinder temperature and pressure relief valve. And tundish must be visible. Maybe it is just not in photo
Shaun might clarify if I am correct
 
Thanks! That all sounds bad? I’m not that upskilled in plumbing to know what that means.

The tundish is the other side of the boiler connected to this valve (see pics).

Should I be worried? Can I assume it’s ok if the pressure isn’t above 3.5?

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P.s. there are 2 stopcocks. See first pic. That’s the main one - then one further down

Yea, the stopcock installed higher is fine, but the lower stopcock should not be installed at all, in my opinion.
As to the pipes to the tundish, - distance is too long.
If you have a decent G3 qualified plumber, then get them to look at everything including all my points
 
thanks. Is it ‘bad’ or not ideal? Should I spend money getting it sorted or is it just not designed that well?

As for the pressure - is 3.5 ok or is that also worrying?

Thanks for your help!
 
3.5 bar is ok if that is the only fault.
But you need the rest of things sorted, so get them looked at by a G3 unvented qualified plumber who will tell you what has to be modified. I suggest you send all the above photos to them, so that they can come prepared to fix it on one visit.
Overheat is the real danger of unvented units, but other issues though they may not require everything to be shut off for safety, they are still safety faults and any G3 plumber or knowledgable building inspector will want them fixed.
Nothing too difficult though
 
Thank you!

I live in a conversion and all the apartments (24 of them) have the same setup. Are they bad enough to be worrying? If so should I tell other neighbours?
 
I am feeling confused about some unvented regs, but as far as I recall, what I said on 2 points is correct, so best you get a second opinion.
Unfortunately there so far hasn’t been someone on here to confirm.
No valve should be installed between combination valve and cylinder.
Discharge pipe (called D1) from cylinder to the tundish has to be a maximum of 600mm
 
the d1 is more of a problem than the stop tap but both needs addressing
 
Thanks Shaun.

Is it something dangerous or poorly designed? Trying to understand if it’s something all my neighbours need to do too and whether it’s somethibg terribly dangerous or just not ideal?
 
lets put it this way its not to regs
 
Are they new regs? The conversion was done 11 years ago. Just wondering if it’s sonething I should raise as an issue through the agent who manages the building as there’s a mixture of owned and rented apartments ?
 
The unnecessary lower stopcock, if turned off, would remove the function of the pressure relief valve, so daft.
The D1 pipe might not take the volume of water in an overheat or overpressure situation, because it is much longer than 600mm.
All just theoretical risks, but rules are there for good reasons
 
Are they new regs? The conversion was done 11 years ago. Just wondering if it’s sonething I should raise as an issue through the agent who manages the building as there’s a mixture of owned and rented apartments ?

Actually the rules were, if anything, slightly more stringent 11 years ago.
The D1 maximum measurement has been previously 500mm
 
My advice get a G3 Engineer in expansion vessel shows signs of leakage and the pipework could do tidying up as best said the lower stopcock should not be there . cheers kop
 
That lower stopcock may act as a non-return valve even when not fully closed. It's probably not actually working as a non-return and probably is allowing expansion water to move back up the system but I really don't like "probably" when it comes to unvented cylinders and their safety devices.
 
Thanks all. The old leakage is from years back - nothing is leaking now. I’ll ask a G3 engineer to take a look (when I can afford it). For now the tundish is clear so hoping nothing needs doing this second.
 
Random question again. Sorry! Keen to get this looked at soon and as the G3 engineers I’ve had before haven’t picked up on any of this (the long G1 and the additional stopcock) I’m wondering where I’m best to find a decent trustworthy engineer? I’m based in Hertfordshire (Ware/Hertford). Thanks.
 
You could also post on the Find a plumber, tiler.....section of this forum, on the find a plumber part. Worth a try.
Or ask around your area who folk think is a decent and experienced plumber. Although take all recommendations as not guaranteed, because only a plumber knows how good the standard of plumbing work really is.
The pipework that is too long is termed the D1 pipe. (It is short for Discharge 1 pipe)
 
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Why is there no expansion vessel connected to composite valve? Also discharge pipework is non-compliant with regs. Get a GOOD G3 plumber in to check over and service :)
 
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