Search the forum,

Discuss Cast Iron style rads on 10mm in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.

Bibbs118

Gas Engineer
Messages
141
Hi,

A customer wants cast iron style rads throughout, 9 or 10 in total but currently has 10mm pipe .

Is there any problems installing this type of rad on mircobore? I'm worried about the water content being much higher and it not circulating?

Anyone else installed these on mircobore?

Cheers
 
Best go for the alu style

Cast iron I would do in 15mm
 
Typically are they not a high water content beast? If so, I don't know how you'd get sufficient flow...
 
Defo not if it's plastic
 
Surely the water flow required is related to OUTPUT, not water content? Agree that a CI rad will contain a lot of water and take a long time to heat up, but a 2kW rad requires a set amount of water, regardless of the water content, otherwise the system won't be balanced properly. So I'd argue that the fact that the radiator is cast iron is largely irrelevant.
 
Surely the water flow required is related to OUTPUT, not water content? Agree that a CI rad will contain a lot of water and take a long time to heat up, but a 2kW rad requires a set amount of water, regardless of the water content, otherwise the system won't be balanced properly. So I'd argue that the fact that the radiator is cast iron is largely irrelevant.

Just come to this thread and above ^ was also my first thoughts.
I think a cast iron rad fed by 10mm will take a very long time to reach full heat because it has large water volume, but will maintain output once reached and then rad will hold heat longer once off.
Personally I would go with steel cast iron lookalike rads.
 
Hmm. Output can only be maintained if more energy is input than can be output. The larger the mass of water, the more sensible energy it contains. If the rad dissipates more energy than the volume of water can supply then it simply cannot do its job and complaints ensue - even tho you've told them.

You would normally slow down flow to improve heat transfer but doing that means you may not move enough mass through in a 10mm system bearing in mind 10mm is the external dia not internal. Other factors mean its usable bore is probably more like 7mm max. This means warm one side cooler the other.

I'm with Harvest on this one. 12mm copper borderline, 15mm copper to make certain. :eek:
 
I don't know, all I know is I see loads of microbore and unless it full of magnatight it works, I don't like it but it works.

And my view on flow is to restrict down as much as possible on the lock shield, so the hot water in rad has time to give off it's heat.

Not really my area tho.

Nb . Bungalow, 22mm circuit in the loft with microbore tee offs, not on a manifold.
 
I don't know, all I know is I see loads of microbore and unless it full of magnatight it works, I don't like it but it works.

And my view on flow is to restrict down as much as possible on the lock shield, so the hot water in rad has time to give off it's heat.

Not really my area tho.

Nb . Bungalow, 22mm circuit in the loft with microbore tee offs, not on a manifold.
Change the dogs legs to 15mm in the loft and run them in the corner of the room in trunking under the floor and up into the rad.
 
Cast iron, or that style, will look stupid with 10mm pipes anyhow. I wouldn't do it unless with a total repipe.
People want luxury look with poor pipework supply.
Bit like putting a Ferrari body on a Sinclair C5.


I know, but it's all dropping down from the loft, might be happy to pay for chiselling in, I've not asked, and I've no idea how long that would take???
 
I know, but it's all dropping down from the loft, might be happy to pay for chiselling in, I've not asked, and I've no idea how long that would take???

Take ages even using a wall chaser. I have done that when piping to ordinary rads, but the lack of movement in the pipes to the rad valves is then a problem.
 
For a chase normally allow an hour
 
Take ages even using a wall chaser. I have done that when piping to ordinary rads, but the lack of movement in the pipes to the rad valves is then a problem.

How long per rad to chisel out and put copper in???, bungalow and I'll have ex BG installer with me, (I'm a service and repair guy, so slow on pipework, Just slow all round really)
 
What, with a machine?

How much does a machine cost? And how many cutters will I go thru?

Yes a wall chaser and extraction unit you can hire them for about 100 all in and none
 
That's what the customer mentioned, it's probably the best compromise, but pipes coming out of the skirting still looks a bit **** I think.

Ffs, installing is hard!!!
I wouldn’t do it. But it’s an option. I would chase the wall or floor. Wall is the easiest option.
 
It depends on the size/surface area of the radiator and the delta T.

They will govern the required water flow rate/speed/volume required.

That will determine the size/bore of pipe required.

There are other things to consider when designing a system such as frictional resistances through pipe work, pump sizes, water noise etc but I am presuming that all that is correct and you are just changing the radiators.

I agree with other comments about the aesthetics.

Those type of rads were not really seen (in real life), with 10 mm pipes sticking out of walls.

Customers!!
Fashion!!
 
It depends on the size/surface area of the radiator and the delta T.

They will govern the required water flow rate/speed/volume required.

That will determine the size/bore of pipe required.

There are other things to consider when designing a system such as frictional resistances through pipe work, pump sizes, water noise etc but I am presuming that all that is correct and you are just changing the radiators.

I agree with other comments about the aesthetics.

Those type of rads were not really seen (in real life), with 10 mm pipes sticking out of walls.

Customers!!
Fashion!!


Ffs, customer just rang after I put in my ball park quote, rads to expensive going with white panel ones.
 
I think I hired a chaser for ÂŁ40. But I had my own vacuum.
Agree 2kW is probably too much on 10mm - in any case, 2 kW was a figure plucked out of the air, not an actual figure relating to the OP's question.
 
The only thing 10mm should be used for is oil line every time I come across it I remove it
Then you are in disagreement with the Copper Development Association which states:

Where
the chosen diameter is too large, so
that the velocity is less then 0.5 m/s,
then sludge can settle in the piping.

and in some cases would therefore prefer to see 10mm used to get sufficient velocity.

Of course, you are allowed to be in disagreement, though.
 
Then you are in disagreement with the Copper Development Association which states:

Where
the chosen diameter is too large, so
that the velocity is less then 0.5 m/s,
then sludge can settle in the piping.

and in some cases would therefore prefer to see 10mm used to get sufficient velocity.

Of course, you are allowed to be in disagreement, though.

I agree.
There is no need to over size pipework and no excuse for under sizing it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to Cast Iron style rads on 10mm in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

OFFICIAL SPONSORS

OFFICIAL SPONSORS

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock