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G M

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Hey folks,

I have a Nest thermostat which I would like to use the hot water function. The problem I am having is that when I select hot water, the Honeywell valve won't open. It has never actually worked since the system was installed about 6 months ago. I just left the valve open, but now we are approaching the hotter weather, I would very much like the option to just heat the water on demand rather than the entire house.

My electrician was out yesterday and did spot a dead cable in the Nest control box. He replaced this cable and tested all the other ones, so I don't think this is an electrical issue. I am leaning towards a DOA Honeywell valve. I was thinking of just buying a replacement motor to see if that worked as it seems an awful lot of hassle to get the whole valve replaced. I will likely have to get the entire system drained and pay a plumber to come out and fix it.
Before I try a new motor, is there any default setting on the valve, or on the thermostat that I am overlooking? I am using a Warmflow unvented heating system. Thanks all!

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Which generation nest do you have? 2nd or 3rd? 2nd gen doesn’t support hot water unless the old programmer is left in situ. The 2nd gen only replaces the thermostat.
 
Also. Did we not instruct you about this before? Sound very familiar.
 
Which generation nest do you have? 2nd or 3rd? 2nd gen doesn’t support hot water unless the old programmer is left in situ. The 2nd gen only replaces the thermostat.
It's a third gen Nest and it definitely does support hot water. Thanks.
 
Also. Did we not instruct you about this before? Sound very familiar.
Haha good memory! The last post was that I couldn't get any hot water at all. Opening the valve sorted that. Secondly, my plumber advised at the time to get the wiring checked. I only did that recently because I was in no rush to get the hot water working without the heat. Now that the wiring has been checked and fixed, the valve still won't open.
 
Need a new plumber and Electritian.
Both can determine if your problem is electric, or mechanical.
 
Haha good memory! The last post was that I couldn't get any hot water at all. Opening the valve sorted that. Secondly, my plumber advised at the time to get the wiring checked. I only did that recently because I was in no rush to get the hot water working without the heat. Now that the wiring has been checked and fixed, the valve still won't open.
If the nest is putting power to the valve and the valve isn’t opening then it is a new valve I’m afraid and I know you have disliked the post above but Chalked is right. Either of the 2 professionals you have had in so far should have been able to test what the faulty component was. He wasn’t being mean. Just trying to save you money in the long run.
 
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If the nest is putting power to the valve and the valve isn’t opening then it is a new valve I’m afraid and I know you have disliked the post above but Chalked is right. Either of the 2 professionals you have had in so far should have been able to test what the faulty component was. He wasn’t being mean. Just trying to save you money in the long run.

Thanks. I've ordered a new valve anyway.

I've removed my 'disagree' vote. I've known my electrician for years and I've no reason to doubt his competency. The plumber was just a rushed job which I'm disappointed with, so he's maybe half right.

I'll let you know how the new valve turns out. Thanks!
 
Sorry but did no one check if there was power going to the valve motor itself with their multimeter ?
Yeah they did. I checked with my electrician today. I just thought of something. When I switch the hot water on, should the oil boiler not ignite at least? It isn't doing anything. The oil boiler only comes on if I switch the heat on. This is all very confusing. Thanks for the help!
 
Yeah they did. I checked with my electrician today. I just thought of something. When I switch the hot water on, should the oil boiler not ignite at least? It isn't doing anything. The oil boiler only comes on if I switch the heat on. This is all very confusing. Thanks for the help!
Nope
 
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Yeah they did. I checked with my electrician today. I just thought of something. When I switch the hot water on, should the oil boiler not ignite at least? It isn't doing anything. The oil boiler only comes on if I switch the heat on. This is all very confusing. Thanks for the help!
The boiler will only fire when at least one of your valves drive open and trigger the microswitch it looks like your HW valve is not doing that.
 
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Do you have any hot water at all or does it run cold ?
 
Might be the valve could be how it's wired to the unvented cylinder
 
The MAN position doesn't trigger the switch, the motor has to power it fully open for that to happen.

That's stupid Draytons do that's the point of manual on the valves
 
Its much easier to put the lever in MAN than taking the actuator off surely.

Don't know about Honeywells but Drayton one push there off take less than a couple if seconds
 
Don't know about Honeywells but Drayton one push there off take less than a couple if seconds[/QUOT
Holding the valve in the MAN position will not fire the boiler but your water will get hot when your heating is on.
This is the only way I can get hot water - when the valve is in the manual position. The problem is, it obviously switches the heating on as well. I would like the water/heat to work independently but I can't get the hot water to work in the auto position. I can hear a clicking sound from the Nest control box but the valve does nothing.
 
This is the only way I can get hot water - when the valve is in the manual position. The problem is, it obviously switches the heating on as well. I would like the water/heat to work independently but I can't get the hot water to work in the auto position. I can hear a clicking sound from the Nest control box but the valve does nothing.
If your electrican confirmed that 240v is going to the motor but the valve is not driving open then you can change the complete actuator without having to drain down.
 
I’m not being funny, as had been previously mentioned. A heating eng or electrician (who actually knows central heating wiring....) should be able to give you a definitive answer in less than 5 minutes.... I know you know and trust your electrician dearly, but if they do not understand central heating wiring, or have much experience working on, then how do they know what to test for? That doesn’t have any bearing on them as an electrician, this is control wiring, electricians I know, trust dearly and work with on projects week in week out, don’t like to touch control wiring...!

Something is either not wired right, or is not functioning correctly, both of which will be very evident when checked...

Stu
 
Honeywell valves don't operate the end switch in manual mode Shaun. It needs the motor to get the extra distance. ( or a conveniently placed screwdriver.

ta will remember the hack :D
 
This is the only way I can get hot water - when the valve is in the manual position. The problem is, it obviously switches the heating on as well. I would like the water/heat to work independently but I can't get the hot water to work in the auto position. I can hear a clicking sound from the Nest control box but the valve does nothing.

GM, you have got completely the wrong idea ref the valve operation. So does, it seems,your Sparks and your plumber.
The valve motor will turn when energised. It will close the m/switch, which (being permanently at 240V) sends the power to the boiler. Manually opening WILL NOT close the MS, but leaves the valve open. When your heating is fired, the HW will get hot. I assume that is what is actually happening.

As has been said, it is basic. I guarantee that I would find the fault inside 5 minutes. I cannot see where you have confirmed there is 240V at the valve motor. Is there 240V at the MS? If there is 240V at the MS, has this been tested across L&N?
 
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