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Discuss Waterfall tap: seal between basin and tap leaking in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi!

As part of a refurbishment I had a new basin and single Plaza waterfall tap from Victorian Plumbing.

The seal between the base of the tap and the top of the basin is ineffective and is prone to leakage in certain circumstances.

I've given up trying to get the plumber back to resolve. He's big on promises but bad on delivery.

That being the case I thought I'd sort it out myself but Victorian Plumbing can't supply a copy of fitting instructions. They claim they don't have any!

Before starting I'd like to know what I'm letting myself in for.

Grateful for any help, advice and guidance that forum members are willing to give.

Thanking you all in anticipation.
 
Basin as in bathroom not kitchen sink yes?
Certain circumstances? Can you elaborate on this please.
 
Basin as in bathroom not kitchen sink yes?
Certain circumstances? Can you elaborate on this please.
It's a bathroom pedestal hand basin.

Certain circumstances: When tap is not turned off properly the water dribbles along the underside of the spout. Water then runs down onto porcelain. The water then surrounds the joint between base of tap and top surface of basin. It then runs through this joint and drips under the basin onto the floor. Difficult to describe in words.

Hope that helps.
 
I had to modify a tap to get it to fit a bidet. Both tap and bidet were supplied by the customer and purchased from the same company you used. Could it be a problem with the product rather than your plumber's competence?
Did you supply the materials or did your plumber? If you supplied the materials and they are impossible to install well, then you can't really blame your plumber. As they say, you cannot make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.
Your description makes sense to me. In other words, you need to seal the tap to the porcelain with silicone sealant or something like Plumber's Gold. Easier to do a good job of this if you can take the tap right off and start again...
 
A smear of LSX sealant (It`s clear not coloured) would do the job.
 
Just wondering here, but is the hole ok for the base of tap to seal?
 
Knowing the quality products ( joke )supplied from Victorian plumbing as I do , I would not go back .
I refuse to any of their products .

To try and help you.. you need to check the seal is there and working on the bottom of the tap ( you will have to remove it )
If its ok then put a straight edge across the basin hole , if it is mile off , about the only thing you can do is use some good quality silicone and seal under the tap before replacing it .
Good luck
 
...then you can't really blame your plumber. As they say, you cannot make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.
.
Not so much calling the plumber's skill into question just the fact that he failed to honour his undertakings that he would pop round to have a look. Thank you for your advice about how the problem may be resolved.
 
To try and help you.. you need to check the seal is there and working on the bottom of the tap ( you will have to remove it )
If its ok then put a straight edge across the basin hole , if it is mile off , about the only thing you can do is use some good quality silicone and seal under the tap before replacing it .
Good luck
Thanks for the tip regarding the use of a straight edge. Much appreciated.
 
Thanks for all the great advice and guidance. Now I'll have to figure out how to get the tap off. It appears to be held in place by two very long studs locked against a metal plate by two nuts on each stud.
Does this sound about right?
It seems to be very difficult nigh impossible to access these.
Would the tap had been fitted before the basin was installed and is not intended to be accessed subsequently?
 
The tap would usually be fitted then the basin put into place
There are special tools to help changing taps in place though

It does sounds like more internet junk and the plumber getting blamed
 
When you say a smear I take it you mean remove the tap and apply to base? Thx you.
Under the base of the tap will be a rubber washer or rubber O ring this is the area to apply a smear of the LSX too, any excessive LSX can be wiped off with a wet cloth.
 
Still wondering if the base of the tap covers all of the hole well enough, time will tell.
 
Guys, would you isolate the water and remove the tap flexi`s to give more room first or is that opening another can of worms?

Ehup pal , probably easier for the OP , unless theres a lot of slack in the flexis .
 
Guys, would you isolate the water and remove the tap flexi`s to give more room first or is that opening another can of worms?
Well, I like to do the flexis up last as easier to access the nuts first, but I like to do the flexis first as then I know they are tightened sufficiently. 6 on one...
 
There are special tools to help changing taps in place though

I didn't know that.

Can you point me in the direction of where I could find out more or the appropriate search term. Once again thank you for your ongoing help.

It does sounds like more internet junk

The tap was purchased from Victorian Plumbing. As was the pedestal bathroom basin.

...and the plumber getting blamed

More than happy with work done by plumber. He also installed a new central heating system plus other bits and pieces.

My issue was that he promised to come back and have look but despite many follow-up calls he's failed to follow through.

It looked a simple job hence I thought I'd have a go myself after receiving the help and guidance from forum members.
 
This is a picture of the same tap but used on a small cloakroom basin. (Not my house.)

You can see clearly how the tap is fixed to the basin which is very useful for me.

I wonder if anyone can tell me the size of the nuts?

IMG_0805.JPG
 
Feedback

I bought a set of MONUMENT TOOLS MONOBLOC SPANNER SET as recommended.

Just the job and well made.

It proves once again that having the right tools can make all the difference.

The nuts on the tap were 9mm.

I had a bit of a problem with getting the tommy bar in to turn the box spanner but got round this by using a ring spanner on the other end. A 14mm ring-key worked just fine.
spanners_1.jpg spanner_2.jpg


Sadly the tap washer nuts were corroded on to the studs so they can out in their entirety.
studs.jpg
Not the end of the world.

To get access I needed to remove one tail which was straight forward enough.

Once I had lifted the tap off the sink the cause of the problem was clear.
hole.JPG
The tap needed to be pushed back about 5mm so that the sealing ring was properly located on porcelain of the basin.

I decided to use the grease approach this time to help make the seal. (I figured if this didn’t work I can go back and use silicon.)

So I used Vaseline as the grease.

I clean the O-ring, base of the tap, and top of the basin.
underside.jpg

Drew a line withe pencil to indicate the revised location of the tap. I then applied Vaseline to the O-ring and base of the tap and reassembled everything.

Job done.

Leak cured and thank you to all the forum members who helped me withe their comments and advice.
 
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