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I have a very old stopcock that will not shut off the flow I followed some advice to spay with WD and worked the valve..now is leaking and still won't shut off, can the valve be stripped back by unscrewing the square nut, and can a replacement be bought anywhere, I assume it would be easier to replace the innards than replace the assembly? it looks like the only 'threaded' part is the square nut, no evidence of a gland nut?

as you can see the feed pipe is lead, and although I have read up on using a Lead Loc coupling there is only about nine inches of pipe coming from the floor and it is half buried in the wall, also read that the lead pipe could be brittle and not advisable to bend away from the wall

to compound the issue the water board stopcock serves the whole terrace

I have a dripping lead pipe upstairs that needs to be sorted which I don't mind tackling but I obviously need to shut off the water and do not want to leave the whole terrace without water should it all go wrong
 
Any chance of a few pics ?
 
Any chance of a few pics ?

WOW thanks for the quick reply Shaun

valve.JPG
 
That is ancient! I wouldn't expect that stopcock to turn off or even be repairable.
Get a new water main brought in from outside, preferably completely over to the road main connection, but at least get any possibility of old lead pipe bursting inside prevented.
Some water authorities will replace from the road free
Lead is hazardous and best removed.
 
Do you know if the external stop tap works ?

If it does tell your neighbors the waters going off for an hour or two and is this ok

I would carfully dig / chop some off the wall out behind the pipe and the valve enough for two fingers (about an inch) before hand

And replace the stop tap like you say with a lead loc and new pipe

Lead wise your ok to move it slightly but not much
 
Did do a bit of googling about replacing main feed,,OUCH! looking for a quick fix till my financial advisor lets me near her purse, thanks for your feedback much appreciated
 
Thanks again Shaun, I will get the materials sorted first and then take the plunge...not literally I hope..:oops:
 
OK more googling for the lead loc reveals different fittings for different lead pipe the pipe is around 3/4" 22mm. What does the pound (as in weight) mean?
 
Looks like 1/2 9lb but best to get a few types like 7lb as well as you could return after if not used

Your best person to ask is @Best or @Last Plumber :D There of the older generation
 
If you're using 2 lead locs so essentially having a lead main going into some copper, then a brass stop tap, then more copper, then back onto lead you will get increased corrosion of the lead after the copper.
Meaning that your tap water will soon start to contain more lead.
If you're not getting the whole lot replaced then at least replace any lead after the conversion to copper.
 
Thanks for your help JC, sorry for the late reply just got in from work

I have pulled away the ceiling to expose the leak but will have to remove the skirting boards to get a full SP on the problem..meanwhile I have found another lead pipe under the leaking one? someone at work has said that it may be an old gas pipe due to it having a smaller branch pipe coming from it that appears to have been flattened out I will be knocking the damaged wall plaster back to hopefully reveal the end of the pipe

I have a couple of piccies here, do you think it may be gas?

gas1.JPG


gas2.JPG
 
Slightly more expensive and a little more bulky but I much prefer Philmac transition couplings to lead loc fittings when coming off lead pipe. And with the transition coupling you can go on into anything plastic or copper in any size 22mm or 15mm even 28mm. With the lead loc you usually have to go into 15mm then back into 22mm which isn't ideal.
 
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