Non standard tap gland +1 inch

[AlanG]

The attached image show a tap gland more than 1 inch in diameter.
Is it possibly American?

 

[AlanG]

I've attached an image of a comparison with a standard one.

 

[Welder]

Looks to me like a 3/4". You are simply comparing with a 1/2".

Are you a DIYer? If so, where do you live?

 

[snowhead]

What does the tap look like that it came out of.?

Photo would be good.

 

[S.P.S.]

Looks like 3/4. Could have a bushing on it, the thread looks a different (finer) gauge to bsp though? I’m sure there’s some other finer thread guage which I cannot for the life of me remember!

 

[AlanG]

What does the tap look like that it came out of.?

Photo would be good.

 

[AlanG]

Looks to me like a 3/4". You are simply comparing with a 1/2".

Are you a DIYer? If so, where do you live?

This is London. A local plumbing supplier has said it is non standard.

 

[Welder]

Sorry to be a pain, but can you take an image of the valve from the front pls? Would like to see if it is indeed sat in some form of carrier.
Take it from the front slightly off to the side. Try to focus on the widest part pls.

 

[Welder]

No it won't be American. The USA uses NPT thread which at 3/4 & 1/2" version are directly interchangable with BSP.

Just a 'blinding glimpse of the obvious' thought. Why are you not simply rebuilding the originals?

 

[AlanG]

Sorry to be a pain, but can you take an image of the valve from the front pls? Would like to see if it is indeed sat in some form of carrier.
Take it from the front slightly off to the side. Try to focus on the widest part pls.

 

[AlanG]

No it won't be American. The USA uses NPT thread which at 3/4 & 1/2" version are directly interchangable with BSP.

Just a 'blinding glimpse of the obvious' thought. Why are you not simply rebuilding the originals?

I suppose I could make an attempt at rebuilding.

 

[Best]

Clean all the parts well using something to scrub the brass and then use silicone grease suitable for drinking water on the works before you put it together.
Looks reasonable condition

 

[S.P.S.]

New O rings, washer, a good scotch bright and fill it with silicone grease and it will see that good as. Face the tap seating also.

 

[Best]

New O rings, washer, a good scotch bright and fill it with silicone grease and it will see that good as. Face the tap seating also.

I find though that the O rings are difficult to match

 

[Welder]

I suppose I could make an attempt at rebuilding.

View attachment 37619

Oh, thanks for the heads up David ...

New O rings, washer, a good scotch bright and fill it with silicone grease and it will see that good as. Face the tap seating also.

I dispair sometimes. DO NOT face the seat. Most are hard chrome plated and removing it ruins the whole tap. Modern taps seats are NOT designed to be re-cut.

Best. O-rings are simple to replace. See previous write ups from me on the subject.

 

[Best]

Best. O-rings are simple to replace. See previous write ups from me on the subject.

I don’t think I read that post of yours

 

[S.P.S.]

Oh, thanks for the heads up David .



I dispair sometimes. DO NOT face the seat. Most are hard chrome plated and removing it ruins the whole tap. Modern taps seats are NOT designed to be re-cut.

Best. O-rings are simple to replace. See previous write ups from me on the subject.

Interesting, never knew this! I was always taught to face up with every washer.
That said, I cannot recall ever seeing a chromed tap seat?? By the fact you can see bare brass at the bottom of most taps seats and throughout the whole internal tap area, I presumed no such coating was applied internally.
Plus, when do they cut the thread? Before or after coating? As again, usually you see bare brass threads. Not being smart here, just intrigued!

I will make sure I review this when I next have to rewasher!

Stu.

 

[Welder]

Interesting, never knew this! I was always taught to face up with every washer.
Stu.

Hi Stu.

It depends on the manufacturer. Hard chrome plating is not the same as bright chrome plating and is also rarely chrome coloured.
Back in the day, like eeeven older than me at 62, tap seats were deliberately raised up so they could be maintained. The valves used were also designed to accommodate that.

Actually they had that as part of their design because originally washers were leather. When the washer wore, inevitably the seat would be scored so it would need to be flattened again by re-seating.
Then, sorry I don't know when, rubber replaced washers. As far as I can estimate that would be around the early 1900s. In 1954 Alfred Moen invented the no drip tap because of leaking leather washers - but that was the USA!

Once production began to move to China in the 1970 & 80s, cost reigned supreme and they found that raising the seat up used more material so the practice of designing to repair was stopped - bloody accountants. Take a really old tap and you'll see a raised seat. Take a cr4p new tap and you'll often see a sunken seat. Manufacturers don't want taps being maintained they want 'em replaced.

Sorry I'm such a boring s0d

 

[S.P.S.]

It's not boring mate, it's interesting, I have never heard anything like this before, as this never gets mentioned in college, or in onsite training!
As I often explain to my apprentice, you are constantly learning in this job, anyone who knows it all, is a DIY "you tube engineer" by trade......

Stu.

 

[AlanG]

Thanks for all the advice.
A different supplier to the other we asked has called it an 'exotic', "a one inch spindle, not locally available". I'll do some more research