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Discuss 3 port motorised valve wiring question. in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Good evening everyone,
Question 1
I have just replaced my 3 port motorised valve head and wired it in.
When looking at my chocolate block connector the orange and grey wires are in different places than the diagram on the instructions shows.
As you look at the terminal block for all the wiring, there are 10 segmants to the chocolate block.
My wiring shows no 8 on the choc block a grey wire and no 7 on the choc bloc a orange wire.
On the instructions,no 8 shows orange and no 7 shows grey.
Could someone please tell me which is correct.

Question 2
Could the above wiring problem affect my heating programmer as I now can't have just hot water without having the heating on aswell.
Before I wired in the new valve I was getting heating on with water aswell.
The programmer seems now to be working the other way round.
The programmer is a Honeywell ST699.

Thanks everyone.
Dal
 
Grey is HW off and orange is to connect to boiler live. Without seeing your wiring centre I couldn’t see what’s what.
 
Good evening everyone,
Question 1
I have just replaced my 3 port motorised valve head and wired it in.
When looking at my chocolate block connector the orange and grey wires are in different places than the diagram on the instructions shows.
As you look at the terminal block for all the wiring, there are 10 segmants to the chocolate block.
My wiring shows no 8 on the choc block a grey wire and no 7 on the choc bloc a orange wire.
On the instructions,no 8 shows orange and no 7 shows grey.
Could someone please tell me which is correct.

Question 2
Could the above wiring problem affect my heating programmer as I now can't have just hot water without having the heating on aswell.
Before I wired in the new valve I was getting heating on with water aswell.
The programmer seems now to be working the other way round.
The programmer is a Honeywell ST699.

Thanks everyone.
Dal

What make is the motorised head?
 
Banico are kind of a Honeywellreplica.
if memory serves I am pretty sure that their heads are interchangeable. Have had a problem with a few of them failing in a short space of time
 
Banico are kind of a Honeywellreplica.
if memory serves I am pretty sure that their heads are interchangeable. Have had a problem with a few of them failing in a short space of time
Thanks Riley.
I have replaced the head and wired up exactly as the wires came out.
I used to put the heating on at the programmer and always have to put the water on aswell otherwise the boiler would not fire up.
Since changing the valve and wiring it in I have to put the heating on and the water which means that when summer comes the rads will be on.
Cheers Dal
 
Good evening everyone,
Question 1
I have just replaced my 3 port motorised valve head and wired it in.
When looking at my chocolate block connector the orange and grey wires are in different places than the diagram on the instructions shows.
As you look at the terminal block for all the wiring, there are 10 segmants to the chocolate block.
My wiring shows no 8 on the choc block a grey wire and no 7 on the choc bloc a orange wire.
On the instructions,no 8 shows orange and no 7 shows grey.
Could someone please tell me which is correct.

Question 2
Could the above wiring problem affect my heating programmer as I now can't have just hot water without having the heating on aswell.
Before I wired in the new valve I was getting heating on with water aswell.
The programmer seems now to be working the other way round.
The programmer is a Honeywell ST699.

Thanks everyone.
Dal

Have a look here, doesn’t mention which numbers:
https://www.banicocontrols.com/uploads/media/instruction_954311.pdf
 
It’s impossible to say if your wiring is correct, even with a picture really, as you need to trace wiring back from the programmer/stats.

When changing a motorised valve, did you put one wire in at a time, in place of the old valves wires ? Or did you take them all out and the put all the new ones in...?

As if it worked before it developed a fault, then it should work nownwith a replacement? I would guess you’ve wired it in wrong.

Stu.
 
Thanks CBW.
What I think I need to do is check in the choc block what other wires the orange and grey wires are connected to.
Thanks for your time much appreciated
Dal

No worries, happy to help. I think you may have a programmer wiring issue as well. I could be wrong but you said in your question 2 and reply to Riley that you have always had to put hot water on also?

Thanks Riley.
I have replaced the head and wired up exactly as the wires came out.
I used to put the heating on at the programmer and always have to put the water on aswell otherwise the boiler would not fire up.
Since changing the valve and wiring it in I have to put the heating on and the water which means that when summer comes the rads will be on.
Cheers Dal
 
It’s impossible to say if your wiring is correct, even with a picture really, as you need to trace wiring back from the programmer/stats.

When changing a motorised valve, did you put one wire in at a time, in place of the old valves wires ? Or did you take them all out and the put all the new ones in...?

As if it worked before it developed a fault, then it should work nownwith a replacement? I would guess you’ve wired it in wrong.

Stu.
Thanks for your reply Stu.
I took a picture on my phone and done a diagram as wanted to make sure I done it properly.
It's just funny looking at a few wiring diagrams for the banico and honeywell valves the orange and grey wires are in different numbers on the choc block.
Cheers Dal
 
No worries, happy to help. I think you may have a programmer wiring issue as well. I could be wrong but you said in your question 2 and reply to Riley that you have always had to put hot water on also?

Out of interest, why did you replace the head?
 
Out of interest, why did you replace the head?
I replaced the head as was getting problems with heating not coming on or water on with no heating.I then put the lever down to man/open and it worked so changed the head.Had checked the valve spindle and that moved from left to right ok.
Cheers Dal
 
If the programmer was set to gravity then when you select CH you would get HW as well, you can confirm this by turning on CH at programmer and seeing if HW light lights up as well. If that’s not it then something has been wired up wrong from the start but like I and others have said it’s almost impossible for us to see exactly what’s going on without being there
 
The reason why we say to trace the wiring is, the valves have the same colour to action. But who knows how/why/who wired it in originally, nothing is to say they followed the standard Honeywell Y plan wiring schedule, could be any manner of choc block order arangement.

Stu.
 
If the programmer was set to gravity then when you select CH you would get HW as well, you can confirm this by turning on CH at programmer and seeing if HW light lights up as well. If that’s not it then something has been wired up wrong from the start but like I and others have said it’s almost impossible for us to see exactly what’s going on without being there
If the programmer was set to gravity then when you select CH you would get HW as well, you can confirm this by turning on CH at programmer and seeing if HW light lights up as well. If that’s not it then something has been wired up wrong from the start but like I and others have said it’s almost impossible for us to see exactly what’s going on without being there
Thanks SJB.
I will have a look at the wiring to see if I can sort it out.
If not need to find a good heating engineer in Essex to sort it out.
Thanks Dal
 
The reason why we say to trace the wiring is, the valves have the same colour to action. But who knows how/why/who wired it in originally, nothing is to say they followed the standard Honeywell Y plan wiring schedule, could be any manner of choc block order arangement.

Stu.
Thanks Stu for your time.
Much appreciated.
 
If the programmer was set to gravity you can sort that out yourself by taking programmer off the wall and look at the back to see if a switch or plug is in the gravity position and not pumped. If that’s not it then like we said it’s wited up wrong somewhere, possibly programmer.
 
If the programmer was set to gravity you can sort that out yourself by taking programmer off the wall and look at the back to see if a switch or plug is in the gravity position and not pumped. If that’s not it then like we said it’s wited up wrong somewhere, possibly programmer.
Thanks SJB for all your help.I will take it off and have a look.
Cheers Dal.
 
If the programmer was set to gravity you can sort that out yourself by taking programmer off the wall and look at the back to see if a switch or plug is in the gravity position and not pumped. If that’s not it then like we said it’s wited up wrong somewhere, possibly programmer.

It’s a fair point mate, but his problem seems the other way to what you’d expect if the programmer was on gravity, also it was working fine before? My moneys on incorrect wiring of the valve.

But as above, double check your programmer isn’t on gravity, as mentioned. ie turn everything to off. Switch on the heating and see if the lights/selector show in for hot water also..

Stu.
 
I think he said it’s always been like this? As you know if it was set to gravity then selecting CH would bring on HW. I’m still a bit unsure of his problem as he’s said a couple things. Is he only getting HW when CH is on?
 
If that is the case then like you say that’s the opposite of what I’d expect from programmer set to gravity and it’s wired up wrong somewhere else
 
The other possibility is is the programmer is set up correctly but there’s a problem with cylinder stat or call from cylinder stat stat to boiler live, maybe a lose wire? Yes CBW this really needs a competent engineer as there’s only so much we can do from a screen on a phone or computer lol
 
The other possibility is is the programmer is set up correctly but there’s a problem with cylinder stat or call from cylinder stat stat to boiler live, maybe a lose wire? Yes CBW this really needs a competent engineer as there’s only so much we can do from a screen on a phone or computer lol
Thanks everyone.
I will try and make explaining a little simpler.
Before I fitted the new Valve head,when sliding the CH on it would not fire the boiler up so I had to slide the HW along to ignite the boiler.
Now after changing the valve head.
I slide the HW to on and it does not fire the boiler the same as it used to.I then slide the CH switch along and it fires the boiler.
This is what makes me think the problem is with the valve wiring as I have not touched the programmer,
Cheers Dal
 
Thanks everyone.
I will try and make explaining a little simpler.
Before I fitted the new Valve head,when sliding the CH on it would not fire the boiler up so I had to slide the HW along to ignite the boiler.
Now after changing the valve head.
I slide the HW to on and it does not fire the boiler the same as it used to.I then slide the CH switch along and it fires the boiler.
This is what makes me think the problem is with the valve wiring as I have not touched the programmer,
Cheers Dal

Ok Dal, let’s try and break this down: at any point were you able to have separate heating, separate hot water or both (mid position)? Obviously you have a wiring fault,but could have always been like that including the programmer. If you are like me and stubborn until it’s fixed then providing you can work safely maybe check this out:

Y Plan central heating system
 
Ok Dal, let’s try and break this down: at any point were you able to have separate heating, separate hot water or both (mid position)? Obviously you have a wiring fault,but could have always been like that including the programmer. If you are like me and stubborn until it’s fixed then providing you can work safely maybe check this out:

Y Plan central heating system
Thanks CBW.I could have seperate water,but when ever I put the heat on the water would have to be on to start the boiler.
 
I’m not familiar with these corgi branded valves unfortunately. I was under the impression that the levers are for system filling and not a switch to bring on boiler? As CBW has linked, check that out. Also like he said have you ever had independent control?
In the wiring centre how many wires are in the connector with the orange boiler live?
 
I’m not familiar with these corgi branded valves unfortunately. I was under the impression that the levers are for system filling and not a switch to bring on boiler? As CBW has linked, check that out. Also like he said have you ever had independent control?
In the wiring centre how many wires are in the connector with the orange boiler live?
Thanks SJB.I am going to have a good look at the wiring and report back to you all with what I find.
Thsnk you all for your time.Much appreciated.
 

Reply to 3 port motorised valve wiring question. in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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