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Hey guys!

Came here to get advice about building a new shower and changing my current F&E heating system to accommodate this. There have been some great advise (I am glad to be part of this forum and this great community) majority said to go for an unvented hot cylinder.

I've had few plumbers looking at the job and quoting. Quotes range from £1,500-£3,000 all in all (Removing the current F&E water tanks and getting 200L unvented cylinder in West London)
1) Is this reasonable?

All 3 plumbers quoted with a Megaflo cylinder. Which I know is a market leader, but it costs 40%-50% than some cylinders and I'm not sold by.

I have been doing some research and ended up with
Kingspan Flomaster (FN150ERP)
Kingspan Ultrasteel (AUI150) and
Telford Tempest (TSMI150)

I know Telford have 30 years warranty (2 years on parts) and is made of high grade of stainless steel
Kingspan 10/25 and has 'Duplex' stainless steel

I know there are a lot of professionals on this forum.

2) What are you experiences with these cylinders? Would you guys recommend either or something completely different?

We are planning to stay in the property for about 10 years and move else where after the retirement.

Thank you for any advice in advance!
Lumen
 
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Hi lumen, what type of boiler do you have or would you consider when installing a new system with an unvented cylinder?
 
Its a long time ago now , but I used to work for the now Kingspan, they used to be known as “Range cylinders “ .
Their cylinders are very good, in the hundreds I used to go out to fix under warrenty , 99% of the faults were caused by the muppets that installed them .
I wouldn’t hesitate to fit one in my house .
 
Gledhill or joule
 
OSO all the way for me.
Never ever had a prob & honest impartial pre-sale advice to the the point of non-supply if not thought truly beneficial or performance considered borderline
 
OSO all the way for me.
Never ever had a prob & honest impartial pre-sale advice to the the point of non-supply if not thought truly beneficial or performance considered borderline

I installed one just before crimbo, slightly impressed.... but not cheap
 
Vaillant uniSTORE for me as well as Vaillant System boiler. I wouldn’t want to mix the brands though but that’s down to budget and preference.

Where are you based on london
 
Personally I wouldn't fit mega flo. You're not getting anything extra for the extra money.

All your estimates from g3 qualified people?

Hi Simon,
Those are exactly my thoughts, I'd usually go for a top of the range, but in this case, it seems that it's not worth 40%-50% more.
Yes, all the plumbers that came and quoted are G3 qualified. I know you need a G3 certificate to work with pressurised systems, so I'd expect them to leave a certificate after install, as otherwise it doesn't pass inspection and will cause issues when it comes to selling the house.
 
Interesting poll results, thank you everyone for contributing!
So nobody here, would even consider Telford :D
Interesting... Glad I've asked now.
 
Hi Simon,
Those are exactly my thoughts, I'd usually go for a top of the range, but in this case, it seems that it's not worth 40%-50% more.
Yes, all the plumbers that came and quoted are G3 qualified. I know you need a G3 certificate to work with pressurised systems, so I'd expect them to leave a certificate after install, as otherwise it doesn't pass inspection and will cause issues when it comes to selling the house.
Building control certificate takes 4-6 weeks!
 
Hi Simon,
Those are exactly my thoughts, I'd usually go for a top of the range, but in this case, it seems that it's not worth 40%-50% more.
Yes, all the plumbers that came and quoted are G3 qualified. I know you need a G3 certificate to work with pressurised systems, so I'd expect them to leave a certificate after install, as otherwise it doesn't pass inspection and will cause issues when it comes to selling the house.
Building control certificate takes 4-6 weeks! Benchmark certificate should be completed on completion
 
Building control certificate takes 4-6 weeks! Benchmark certificate should be completed on completion

Thanks for heads up Jase. I will ask for benchmark certificate on completion. Do I need to get building control certificate after the job is complete or just before selling the house?
 
Gledhill or joule
Yep, Gledhill for me all day long
Hi chaps,
I'm settling in for either the
Joule Cyclone Standard (TCEMVI-0150LFB)
or Gledhill ES (SESINPIN150) or Gledhill Stainless Lite Plus (PLUIN150)
Do you chaps know what's the biggest difference between Gledhill ES and Gledhill Stainless Lite Plus?
Both of these are B rated and second is slight lighter, but there's about 25% £100 difference in price.
What is the price difference due?
 
Prob thinner go for the thicker one
 
Shaun, pardon my ignorance, but thicker in terms of wall/insulation thickness or overall diameter?

Prob thicker insulation and ss
 
Hey guys, here’s the final update on the post 3 weeks after instal.

I went for Joule cylinder in the end. The install took one day, but that involve me preparing everything a week before and running the 22mm waste pipe along the plumber installing the cylinder.

Only thing I’m planning changing in this set up is adding an automatic by pass, but that’s for a next bank holiday weekend, I’ve got clockroom to do first.

Building regs certificte came through the post yesterday, so all seems good. Many thanks for all who contributed and advised, I’d get you a beer each if I could ;)

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Don’t know how you have a cert as it’s not a good install

3 port valve istalled wrong should be a 3 port and a 2 port (safety) or two 2 ports eg s plan

Plus a few more niggling things

Filter on the flow
Not enough tundishs
 
Interring, I might have to follow up with the installer about the 3 port valve.
I wanted to change that to an S-plan, but installer said that changing the valves and pipes would take the install into two days work territory and add about £50-100 plus the cost of parts for this job. So it seemed like it wasn’t worth it to me.

I’ve also noticed that filter was installed on a flow, not return, but he said that there isn’t any space to put in on return in this clockroom and boiler downstairs installed about 15-20cm from the ceiling, so can’t go there either.

As for tundish, the what’s wrong with it? As the bend is 38cm below the tundish.
 
It requires the extra port valve or an s plan so no option to fit without you should of been made aware of this

As for extra they normally supply a two port valve with the cylinder so no excuse

Would want a few more install one on each of the safety’s but not a requirement that’s why it’s in the niggle cat :)

Your main safety issue is the port valves
 
How did he manage to get Bulding Regulations Notification certificate? As I have it in the post with his company name on it.

Guess he lied on it
 
Hmmmm I’d still be dubious. The valves thing is unventeds 101. Does someone at his company hold the qualification but not him??
 
Hey guys!

Came here to get advice about building a new shower and changing my current F&E heating system to accommodate this. There have been some great advise (I am glad to be part of this forum and this great community) majority said to go for an unvented hot cylinder.

I've had few plumbers looking at the job and quoting. Quotes range from £1,500-£3,000 all in all (Removing the current F&E water tanks and getting 200L unvented cylinder in West London)
1) Is this reasonable?

All 3 plumbers quoted with a Megaflo cylinder. Which I know is a market leader, but it costs 40%-50% than some cylinders and I'm not sold by.

I have been doing some research and ended up with
Kingspan Flomaster (FN150ERP)
Kingspan Ultrasteel (AUI150) and
Telford Tempest (TSMI150)

I know Telford have 30 years warranty (2 years on parts) and is made of high grade of stainless steel
Kingspan 10/25 and has 'Duplex' stainless steel

I know there are a lot of professionals on this forum.

2) What are you experiences with these cylinders? Would you guys recommend either or something completely different?

We are planning to stay in the property for about 10 years and move else where after the retirement.

Thank you for any advice in advance!
Lumen
You say remove the current F/E tank, but why do that if your boiler setup is OK? You could just swap your HW cylinder for unvented and leave the primary circuit as is.
 
Bit late to the party but....

Apart from personal preference, all manufacturers give 20/25 years on a vessel and 1 year on components.

Surely after that, the only thing important would be the r value (insulation)?

So, if 2 cylinders are the same price and with the same warranties, the only thing that would set them apart from each other, would be how long itjt keeps the water warm for?
 

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