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Hi
I have a problem with a potterton Statesman system boiler. Riello R40 G5. I'm getting lock out after about 15 sec. Motor runs, oil to pump. Although slow bleeding through pump bleeder. No pressure on gauge at all.
Previous plumber has changed pump solenoid.. Im suspecting pump or broken drive coupling to start with... I ve got downloaded potterton statesman manuals but they do not have any details of boiler setup..Pressure setting, nozzle size, CO2, temps per kw output sizes etc. It says refer to burner manual? I usually use these to get the correct manufactures settings and nozzle. Does any one have these or know where to get them.
If Im getting about 20volts between white and black at control box is that a knackered motor. Even though it sound fine.?
 
Thanks all for the advice.. Replaced siezed pump and drive coupling...With no help from Baxi and unable to get through to Riello. I took an educated guess. .60/60 /W nozzle preset air buy burner burn with help of combustion view glass. Small adjustment to air to get slight grey on smoke test. Then combustion test to 11.5% Co2.
Seems to still be running so hope all OK
 
Glad the advice helped you. :)

I avoided answering at the time, probably because it read to me it was a diy person at their own boiler due to the pressure comment tbh.
No pressure at Riello pump, despite oil to it = pump gone, simple as that.

What Kw is the boiler and what approx heat requirement is the house? A 0.6 nozzle is fairly small and typical of a boiler of about 21kw output.
The smoke test should normally be zero on that burner.
The CO2 is about right, although perhaps stay down nearer to 11%.
Are you using wet testing kit, - or an analyser?
 
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Thanks for the reply. No I'm not diy. Just always found M I to help with set up. The house is an old cottage hard to gauge exact heat loss requirements without doing a load of measuring and inslation checks
Old Boiler is 21-25kw so presume been ok at that. Also then presume set to mid range of 23kw. Used kane annalyser to fine tune. Retested smoke after and 0 spot. I went back next day to retest ( bit unsure) and same results. It was the burner with the air duct fixed to centre of metal burner box. Pain in ares to get in and out. Previous two plumbers had left unrepairable, screws missing etc.
My first vue was new boiler but looking at new regulations would mean moving boiler to other side of house., flue through roof, pipework... not something i could arrainge before Christmas..
 
Exess air was 37% Do you think it might start sooting up or be ok at 11.5% co 2
Landlord says he'll replace boiler after holidays, but as it is running we all know that will never happen..
 
Exess air was 37% Do you think it might start sooting up or be ok at 11.5% co 2
Landlord says he'll replace boiler after holidays, but as it is running we all know that will never happen..

Your excess air reading is good. I will pm you
 

Not supposed to have advice on gas advice on this forum and oil work is not much different.
The OP is using an analyser, so he only needs specific professional advice.
I like to help most people, but some knowledge is best kept away from diyers.
 
Not supposed to have advice on gas advice on this forum and oil work is not much different.
The OP is using an analyser, so he only needs specific professional advice.
I like to help most people, but some knowledge is best kept away from diyers.

I understand what you are saying, but not all DIY's are muppets that will try to adjust anything and everything because they have a tool in their hand, IMO there can be no harm in giving general advice on adjustment to bring a burner into the correct range according to the Flue Gas Analysis, but then I believe that knowledge is useless if its not shared.
 
Going back to the original post, shouldn't there be 50volts between the white and black from the motor to operate the solenoid?
 
I understand what you are saying, but not all DIY's are muppets that will try to adjust anything and everything because they have a tool in their hand, IMO there can be no harm in giving general advice on adjustment to bring a burner into the correct range according to the Flue Gas Analysis, but then I believe that knowledge is useless if its not shared.

But it is useless information unless you own and can use an analyser.
And dangerous if you are just messing with boilers without a clue.
 
I agree, but your statement was still illogical. Unshared knowledge can be very useful indeed, to those that have it.
The purpose of the forum is not to educate the DIYer.
A little knowledge can be very dangerous and it is the responsibility of those that hold it whether, or not, they share it.
 
Another one who has watched over the shoulder of somebody for 5 minutes and now think they're an expert.

3 boilers this week where 'somebody' had obviously fiddled but supposedly 'nobody' had.

By all means do your training, buy your analyser, smoke pump etc. Then crack on.

After all its a forum, I decide what info and to whom I will share.

Obviously gladly share with a fellow pro, but away from the prying eyes of the have a go heroes who know everything about nothing.
 
Strange how the word professional has been diluted to mean anyone who works in a specific area and not someone who is degree qualified and is a member of a professional institute for their area of expertise.
 
Strange how the word professional has been diluted to mean anyone who works in a specific area and not someone who is degree qualified and is a member of a professional institute for their area of expertise.

Look up a dictionary of the actual definition of the word ‘professional’. We are using it in the correct meaning.

It means someone engaged or qualified in a profession.
So an unqualified person who is in a regular job is a professional in that field.
Doesn’t matter if they are a window cleaner, or in a job requiring a much higher level of education, like a heating engineer, still all professionals.
 
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