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Discuss Wood burner back boiler gravity circuit problem in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Dymock

Hello all,

I have a problem with the gravity circuit on a system with 16kw multi fuel burner with a back boiler. The existing plumbing is about 15 years old, roughly. House was vacant before buying and had an old inset stove that was falling apart, assume it worked fine as it was a housing association property with long-term tenants.

A plumber has installed a replacement stove, replaced the cylinder (apparently it has the wrong type of coil), added a heat leak radiator and relocated a section of 28mm pipe. Also added a control valve on the return, I think. There is also a central heating circuit with 8 rads, again prexisting.

When fired up the hot water doesn't go into the heat leak radiator or the cylinder, but vents periodically into the expansion tank in the attic then overflows out of the side of the house. This is quite a noisy process and seems to cycle as the pipes get really hot then go cold after the venting.

The plumber has checked everything he can think of and is now getting reluctant to undertake further work without something major being tried, saying we could try replacing the fire or moving the whole circuit and see if that helps. So far he has tried removing the control valve, checking the rise of the gravity circuit, "blown through" the cylinder and heatleak radiator and cut sections of pipe out to look for sludge.

The existing circuit has a short near horizontal run from the fire, then up to the ceiling and another horizontal run of about 4m to the heat leak radiator, then a couple more to the cylinder. Admittedly this doesn't sound ideal, but as the plumber noted it must have been OK before. The cylinder has a rise of a metre or so, then there is the hot water header tank above that then the expansion tank in the attic, about 4m above the heatleak.

Currently, my thoughts are (from reading around on the web) that it presumably has to be an airlock, blockage like sludge or a misconnection. The plumber says he doesn't think there is an airlock in the pipes having checked. He can't find sludge in the pipes either. Could there be a blockage in the stove? I assume it's just a simple tank, but could air or sludge cause the venting?

If the pipes are misconnected would it cause the system to purge heat like it does? Could a brand new cylinder be faulty and cause it?

Could it be simply too much resistance for the gravity circuit now we've added a heat leak radiator and put the correct type of cylinder in? Would reducing the horizontal runs fix it? I'm nervous of doing this without being fairly sure as it's expensive and not easy to do due to the layout of the house, but if this is most likely then it will need to be done I guess.

For info, the stove and heatleak radiator are 12 months old but in good condition.

Any help much appreciated as we have reached something of an impasse. Apologies for any missing detail, my plumbing knowledge is limited to simple jobs.
 
Does sound like an air lock. But gravity pipework should be installed in a continuous rise, so air should always clear.
What ,ale/ type of cylinder is installed! Pics would help. If it's got a coil which drops to the base of the cylinder, it will Hebert work. The heat leak pipework should rise to the rad from the primary pipework too. If not, again, it won't work.

How old was your plumber? The trouble is. Most under 35 year olds have never installed gravity pipework. So might not know it's oddities.
 
Does sound like an air lock. But gravity pipework should be installed in a continuous rise, so air should always clear.
What ,ale/ type of cylinder is installed! Pics would help. If it's got a coil which drops to the base of the cylinder, it will Hebert work. The heat leak pipework should rise to the rad from the primary pipework too. If not, again, it won't work.

How old was your plumber? The trouble is. Most under 35 year olds have never installed gravity pipework. So might not know it's oddities.
 
Exactly my first thoughts - wrong cylinder not suitable for Gravity, or Gravity pipework installed with no continuous slight rise.
Plumbers, particularily fairly young guys will often only be used to fully pumped systems that can be wrongly piped and still circulate because of the pump, but gravity pipework needs to be done very carefully.
Note that the return gravity pipe is just as critical to be installed properly as the flow! If you don't have a fall on return to the fire, then both the flow/return pipes cannot circulate
 
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Thanks for your responses so far, I'll try to get some photos/more details and post later on. Flow and return both follow the same route and he says he's happy with the rise/fall of both, buy as I said the old system has a fair amount of nearly horizontal to cross a floor. I'm assuming this worked ok previously though.

I'd guess the plumber is mid forties, his mate is younger though. I get the impression that normally he installs from scratch and isn't enjoying working on an existing circuit, but I may be being unfair.

I think the valve was something to do with preventing the boiler overheating, he thought it was the problem initially and tried turning it and removing it. I don't remember what it's called but I'll find the box and update with it.
 
Rule of thumb for convection was, any horizontal pipework not exceeding 1/2 length of vertical pipework. Flow should enter top of coil and also top of heat leak, No valve should impede gravity circulation and horizontal pipework should have positive rise so as not to trap air at elbows.Better to have vertical pipe from boiler and horizontal at ceiling and certainly vertical pipe within 1 metre of boiler.
 
It wouldn't take too much of a slight alteration to the pipework to wrongly alter it.
For example, if the gravity return pipe at the old cylinder was lowered slightly from original position when the new cylinder was being installed, could stop circulation. Only an inch of a drop could mean a pipe is then below the level it is further away. Pipes need clipped or supported well at frequent places
Also the return connection on some fires vary.
Would be good to see plenty of pictures of the stove and as much as possible of the gravity pipes. Something is serious amiss if gravity from a fire won't work!
 
IMG_20170115_161940.jpgIMG_20170115_161949.jpgIMG_20170115_162031.jpgIMG_20170115_162024.jpg

Hopefully these photos will help. So the pipes are 28mm for the gravity circuit and 22mm for the CH circuit. The system is mostly unchanged from the previous installation. The pipes run asking from the fire about 2.5m at a slight rise, then turn up to go through the ceiling. They come up in the corner of the photo that shows the floor then track along and across the floor. The gravity radiator comes off the corner nearest to the camera in that photo. The white plastic joints are where the control valve thing was. The old cylinder looked similar, pipes in roughly the same place but was about 50cm taller.

Definitely more horizontal pipe than vertical though, so breaks that rule of thumb.

The fire is a Stratford ecoboiler 16kw.
 
Get them plastic fittings out. ffs. bin the guy you have and get a new one.

Why is there a tprv valve on a vented cylinder?

Needs sorting to operate 1. safely and 2. effectively.
 
Get them plastic fittings out. ffs. bin the guy you have and get a new one.

Why is there a tprv valve on a vented cylinder?

Needs sorting to operate 1. safely and 2. effectively.
 
Every time I try to view full size images all I get is a "You don't have permission to view this" message
 
Do the returns connect near the boiler with an injector tee? I would be checking there for a blockage if all else fails.
 
I think the plastic fittings are just a temporary thing to see if the valve was the cause. I don't think there is an injector tee as the fire has 4 connection points, 2 for each circuit? Forgive my ignorance if I'm wrong but I assume it doesn't need one unless it only has 2 connections?
 
I think the plastic fittings are just a temporary thing to see if the valve was the cause. I don't think there is an injector tee as the fire has 4 connection points, 2 for each circuit? Forgive my ignorance if I'm wrong but I assume it doesn't need one unless it only has 2 connections?

No, that assumption is wrong. Injector tee is used on 4 pipe connections to fires.
Basically it is 4 pipes (the 2 gravity for cylinder & the 2 pumped for rads) joining to the fire using only 3 of the 4 connections of the fire.
Injector tee is used for to draw the gravity circuit and to the correct direction while pump is pumping the water to rads. Injects the pumped water through centre of tee, drawing gravity return.
It is a requirement of lots of stoves, - so check the MIs
 
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From memory (I'll check when I get chance) the installation manual says you can use 3 or 4 connections. Is there a benefit to using the injector tee and only 3 connections? Would it help the gravity circuit? The original stove didn't have one, it also had 4 connections.
 
From memory (I'll check when I get chance) the installation manual says you can use 3 or 4 connections. Is there a benefit to using the injector tee and only 3 connections? Would it help the gravity circuit? The original stove didn't have one, it also had 4 connections.

It will not help the gravity circuit, to work solely on gravity if an injector tee 3 pipe to 4 pipe is used, nor is its purpose.
But it will help the gravity circuit to keep circulating and prevent reverse circulation in the gravity pipes if an injector tee is used.
Your gravity circuit should therefore be capable of circulating normally when pump isn't on, even if no injector tee is fitted.
 
From memory (I'll check when I get chance) the installation manual says you can use 3 or 4 connections. Is there a benefit to using the injector tee and only 3 connections? Would it help the gravity circuit? The original stove didn't have one, it also had 4 connections.

It will not help the gravity circuit, when fire working solely on gravity if an injector tee 3 pipe to 4 pipe is used, nor is its purpose.
But it will help the gravity circuit to keep circulating and prevent reverse circulation in the gravity pipes if an injector tee is used.
When the pumped 2 pipe circuit pumps water it tends to rob the 2 gravity pipes of circulation and reverse the gravity circulation on 4 pipes linked directly to fire type installs.
Your gravity circuit should therefore be capable of circulating normally when pump isn't on, even if no injector tee is fitted.
 
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