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Use loctite 55 on your threads mate with bit of gas paste ,

like simon says i use bit of paste to aid the seal gas paste on gas but each to their own
 
thought you had a commercial guy in helping you thought they would know what to get do mate
 
Yes a couple of commercial guys doing the job tomorrow. I just had to purchase all materials for it
 
Am getting quite a bit of commercial work now. Mostly due to churches passing my name on.

For the 2 for the day Ā£500. Which I think is reasonable. then Ā£90 for nitrogen to purge system. It is a bigger job than I realised really. Plaque heaters with pilots that need to be re-lit and that requires scaffold. Will remember next time though to add more to my quote.
 
remeber commercial means Ā£Ā£Ā£Ā£Ā£Ā£'s

am getting offered fair bit so looking at booking my tickets as getting fed up subbing it
 
Use loctite 55 on your threads mate with bit of gas paste ,

like simon says i use bit of paste to aid the seal gas paste on gas but each to their own

It's very late, I'm quite old and I have quaffed getting on for a litre of the red stuff but without
resorting to the regulations I am fairly sure that you can only use one or the other on gas threads
but not both.
 
The fm companies have the good stuff signed up. Most of what is left is the dross with the odd good one here and there It depends what you are being offered. The money isn't really any better you're just not knocking your pan in to make it.
 
It's very late, I'm quite old and I have quaffed getting on for a litre of the red stuff but without
resorting to the regulations I am fairly sure that you can only use one or the other on gas threads
but not both.

Thats what i'd say too. And, only hemp on joints 3" and over which is now all welded anyway!
 
As far as I am aware you dont need to paste loctite but not read anything saying either but then never seen nothing on pack olives saying same I do it because always have
 
Well, that was an interesting day. After all that effort sourcing pipe and materials I turn up to the job excited to get started. As soon as the commercial guy turns up, he looks at existing pipe and mine and says, that's too big. This is inch and a quarter and I have inch and a half. Luckily the pipe has play on it and he has fittings on the van.

Then off to look at the meter, the meter does not have a purge point on it. And, there is no chance we can purge job just by air, so need to use nitrogen, but no place to connect it to.

Then were off looking for another plan. Go upstairs and he spots plaque heaters with no ventilation. Says, that's not good. So we ask to look at cp12 of the commercial type. Plaque heaters not listed on it.

So we find an iso valve at kitchen which is inch and a quarter reducing down to 28mm. He says that is your best option. So that gets tee'd into and another valve and test point put in.

I am wondering, from this iso we put in, could I bump the diameter upto 32mm if I needed? As we all know gas compresses.

Oh the joys of being a plumb bum.
 
The guy said he would never be able to get all the air out without nitrogen. Something to do with all the plaque heaters and nightmare runs of pipework
 
Every riser in the country is galvanised

And LPG has to be in galvo, not wrought. Because of the moisture content of the decompressed gas.

Thats what i'd say too. And, only hemp on joints 3" and over which is now all welded anyway!

oooo hemp! no no no! Anything up to 1" with any pressure can be screwed or welded, Up to 2" and 500mbar can be screwed, anything over 2" or over 500mbar welded only.

I've just corrected Tamz! I'm going to that special corner of hell reserved for people that dare do that!

purge commercial pipes with air??
5-15% explosive ratio ?
isnt that dodgy?

Aye. indirect purge through a stack! doddle!

Mind you, I don't do any calculations, I connect the compressor and give it stacks!
 
oooo hemp! no no no! Anything up to 1" with any pressure can be screwed or welded, Up to 2" and 500mbar can be screwed, anything over 2" or over 500mbar welded only.

I've just corrected Tamz! I'm going to that special corner of hell reserved for people that dare do that!

I was taught to use a bit hemp on gas joints over 2". I never doubted it as it came from older smarter heads than me but that is out the window now anyway as everything over 2 is welded has been for the past 7 or 8 years
Point taken tho :wink: :lol:
 
No really if you have a compressor (a real one).

I agree, I would prefer to use O2 free nitrogen but I don't always have a large enough bottle with me. But I always have the compressor!
 
It's a pain when you get soloinid valves etc that are bigger than 2" with screwed connections
 
I agree, I would prefer to use O2 free nitrogen but I don't always have a large enough bottle with me. But I always have the compressor!


Out of curiosity (I'm not commercial!) what are you pumping through with the compressor? Just air? I thought the whole point of commercial purging was that it had to be an inert gas because of the sheer volume of pipework and appliances - it's too big a risk if that amount of gas/air mixture hits the explosive ratio. Or have I totally misunderstood? I've not commercial gas training, this is just me figuring it out logically, by the way, so I am happy to be corrected! :)
 
Out of curiosity (I'm not commercial!) what are you pumping through with the compressor? Just air? I thought the whole point of commercial purging was that it had to be an inert gas because of the sheer volume of pipework and appliances - it's too big a risk if that amount of gas/air mixture hits the explosive ratio. Or have I totally misunderstood? I've not commercial gas training, this is just me figuring it out logically, by the way, so I am happy to be corrected! :)

No worries Mas, easiest way to learn is to ask.

It is just air but the difference is you're pumping it through at a greater volume and velocity minimising the risk of the explosive ratio being reached. My compressor is a 24ltr one and I usually leave it connected for about 5-10 minutes.

My purge stack is, or was (I have to make a new one, my old one was lent to a boy at work and is now in Scotland!), a 3.5m length of 1" pipe, welded at the bottom to an 8" blank flange with reinforcing. An equal tee 400mm up, a sample point (1"x1"x1/2" tee with union and lever valve) at 1.2m, and an elbow into a short stub cut off at 45deg to prevent rain ingress. It's in two pieces, joined in the middle with a 1" union.

Basically I connect my purge hose to it, compressor at the other end and let fly!
 
No worries Mas, easiest way to learn is to ask.

It is just air but the difference is you're pumping it through at a greater volume and velocity minimising the risk of the explosive ratio being reached. My compressor is a 24ltr one and I usually leave it connected for about 5-10 minutes.

My purge stack is, or was (I have to make a new one, my old one was lent to a boy at work and is now in Scotland!), a 3.5m length of 1" pipe, welded at the bottom to an 8" blank flange with reinforcing. An equal tee 400mm up, a sample point (1"x1"x1/2" tee with union and lever valve) at 1.2m, and an elbow into a short stub cut off at 45deg to prevent rain ingress. It's in two pieces, joined in the middle with a 1" union.

Basically I connect my purge hose to it, compressor at the other end and let fly!

And if the meter does not have a purge point on it? What would you do
 
And if the meter does not have a purge point on it? What would you do

Drill a hole in the pipe close to the meter

Remove the meter

Many options
 
Drill a hole in the pipe close to the meter

Remove the meter

Remove the meter, I think we suggested this option to him but have did no have fittings to connect.

Suggested cutting into the 3 inch but he said if we get spark then that is problem. What ever we suggested, it was a problem
 
Drill a hole in the pipe close to the meter

Remove the meter

Remove the meter, I think we suggested this option to him but have did no have fittings to connect.

Suggested cutting into the 3 inch but he said if we get spark then that is problem. What ever we suggested, it was a problem

I wouldn't like to suggest the way I would drill the pipe then.

I read through some of this post. And "picking up a 28mm pipe" somewhere in the system to purge screams out a dangerous engineer to me

Surely even to a muggle it's obvious that you have to purge from the start and vent at the end. Not from one branch to another. There will be dead legs

Atleast the op didnt hurt anyone
 
No, re read the post. We ended up taking a branch off a 28mm supply from kitchen which had a stopcock. So no need to purge. Just put a test point after stopcock and carry on from there.

Sorry if my post is unclear
 
No, re read the post. We ended up taking a branch off a 28mm supply from kitchen which had a stopcock. So no need to purge. Just put a test point after stopcock and carry on from there.

Sorry if my post is unclear

My appologies. I read it as that's where you put your purge on
 
Strictly speaking HP wasn't a muggle but I love the term for non gsr's!

That make trainees mudbloods?
 
Wild card here, does any one know how to create new thread on tap talk?
 
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