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Been meaning to upgrade my heating system for a few years but always had something came up and put it off untill now. Its a 2400sq ft dormer built to 2004 regs. Oil burner but now i want a duel system and going to install a back boiler stove. Wanting to know what solid fuel kw stove id need or how would i calculate it myself

My rads below are
800 single
1000 double
1000 single
1100 single
1800 double
1000 single
1300 double
1000 double
1300 single
1600 single
700 double
1400 double
700 double
 
Quickest way of working out your rad heat load is by a rad catalog quoting its output at whatever delta T

However from what you have said what you are proposing is not a DIY job , you could do with talking to a HETAS registered business
 
Quickest way of working out your rad heat load is by a rad catalog quoting its output at whatever delta T

However from what you have said what you are proposing is not a DIY job , you could do with talking to a HETAS registered business



I wouldnt dream of installing it myself. I know its a professional job and actually illegal to install one without being registered, I just need to know the exact kw so i can start pricing them online before get someone out.
 
You need to know if your radiators are single or double, if they are finned on neither panel, one panel, or both. You then need BOTH the height and width of the radiators to be able to get anywhere meaningful.

"P1 also known as Type 10, is a type of radiator with 1 radiator panel and no convection fins.

K1 also known as Type 11, is a type of radiator with 1 radiator panel and 1 set of convection fins.

P+ also known as Type 21, is a type of radiator with 2 radiator panels and 1 set of convection fins.

K2 also known as Type 22, is a type of radiator with 2 radiator panels and 2 sets of convection fins.

K3 also known as Type 33, is a type of radiator with 3 radiator panels and 3 sets of convection fins."

I don't know the designation for a type of radiator with 2 radiator panels and no convector fins!

To be frank though, I don't see what you are hoping to achieve by calculating this yourself. If you supply the spec to a contractor and it doesn't work, the contractor takes no responsibility. If you were DIYing and putting it through Building Control, then I'd understand, but, as it is, you may as well let the professional do the calculations, if s/he is going to do the rest of the work.
 
Im sure i posted a reply with workings out for your rads given that they where all 600mm high. Its seems to have been deleted?
 
Given thst all your rads are 600mm high then it would me
12,358watts or 12.5kw +allowance for hot water.
 
You need to know if your radiators are single or double, if they are finned on neither panel, one panel, or both. You then need BOTH the height and width of the radiators to be able to get anywhere meaningful.

"P1 also known as Type 10, is a type of radiator with 1 radiator panel and no convection fins.

K1 also known as Type 11, is a type of radiator with 1 radiator panel and 1 set of convection fins.

P+ also known as Type 21, is a type of radiator with 2 radiator panels and 1 set of convection fins.

K2 also known as Type 22, is a type of radiator with 2 radiator panels and 2 sets of convection fins.

K3 also known as Type 33, is a type of radiator with 3 radiator panels and 3 sets of convection fins."

I don't know the designation for a type of radiator with 2 radiator panels and no convector fins!

To be frank though, I don't see what you are hoping to achieve by calculating this yourself. If you supply the spec to a contractor and it doesn't work, the contractor takes no responsibility. If you were DIYing and putting it through Building Control, then I'd understand, but, as it is, you may as well let the professional do the calculations, if s/he is going to do the rest of the work.




Ive been getting conflicting opinions on the back boiler stoves. Some saying you also need oil if you want the rads pumping hot for a house that size so im kind of in 2 minds to get one now. I have a few k to spend and was hoping to install one that would deal with most my heating needs during winter but like i said, im in 2 minds to get one now. Even someone we know installed a 25k stove and its not heating all the rads as she hoped for. Think theres one bedroom that doesnt even get heat to it
 
In practice, solid fuel installations are less easy to get away with imperfections in design than the other varieties. I'm not an expert on wet solid fuel heating systems yet, but I have an interest and a few thoughts.

At the Centre for Alternative Technology, they have an HDG log batch boiler. While it modulates to some degree, their engineering department decided it would run more efficiently if run flat out and dumping its heat into a large thermal store. Apparently it is 90-something percent efficient. The designer of the installation there said he felt that buffer tanks, or heat accumulators (i.e. thermal stores) were a solution to (nearly) every problem.

More primitive stoves (compared with computerised log batch boilers) generally do not tend to allow the heat output to be varied. The presence of a water chamber next to the firebox means that the fire only really burns well at high outputs otherwise it is difficult to achieve the right temperature for efficient and clean combustion.

So if the stove has enough heat for all the radiators, it may not work so well when some of the radiators are starting to shut down on their TRVs. Conversely, a system that has the stove sized for not running all the radiators at once might actually be more practical if you aren't actually hoping to heat every room at once.

To put things into perspective, I once lived in a house with a 13kW output gas boiler. Although there were about 7kW of radiators in total, the house was not heated to the design temperature of the system, nor was the weather often at the design outdoor temperature (-1°C). Also, most of the radiators were oversized to allow for a faster warm-up in the morning or for when I got home after work. Once the house was up to temperature, the use of zone valves and thermostats meant that 1kW was probably the typical requirement for space heating during the day, with a 3kW peak requirement in the early morning when the system first fired for the day. I think the design constant heating requirement for that house at design temperatures was around 5.5kW. The design on that system was a compromise dictated (largely) by budget, but also a need to fulfill both my specific requirements and the probable requirements of future occupants.

Back to your house, I reckon you have the space for a thermal store and a log batch boiler?
 
In practice, solid fuel installations are less easy to get away with imperfections in design than the other varieties. I'm not an expert on wet solid fuel heating systems yet, but I have an interest and a few thoughts.

At the Centre for Alternative Technology, they have an HDG log batch boiler. While it modulates to some degree, their engineering department decided it would run more efficiently if run flat out and dumping its heat into a large thermal store. Apparently it is 90-something percent efficient. The designer of the installation there said he felt that buffer tanks, or heat accumulators (i.e. thermal stores) were a solution to (nearly) every problem.

More primitive stoves (compared with computerised log batch boilers) generally do not tend to allow the heat output to be varied. The presence of a water chamber next to the firebox means that the fire only really burns well at high outputs otherwise it is difficult to achieve the right temperature for efficient and clean combustion.

So if the stove has enough heat for all the radiators, it may not work so well when some of the radiators are starting to shut down on their TRVs. Conversely, a system that has the stove sized for not running all the radiators at once might actually be more practical if you aren't actually hoping to heat every room at once.

To put things into perspective, I once lived in a house with a 13kW output gas boiler. Although there were about 7kW of radiators in total, the house was not heated to the design temperature of the system, nor was the weather often at the design outdoor temperature (-1°C). Also, most of the radiators were oversized to allow for a faster warm-up in the morning or for when I got home after work. Once the house was up to temperature, the use of zone valves and thermostats meant that 1kW was probably the typical requirement for space heating during the day, with a 3kW peak requirement in the early morning when the system first fired for the day. I think the design constant heating requirement for that house at design temperatures was around 5.5kW. The design on that system was a compromise dictated (largely) by budget, but also a need to fulfill both my specific requirements and the probable requirements of future occupants.

Back to your house, I reckon you have the space for a thermal store and a log batch boiler?



YEs, same here about not knowing much about them. Ideally i should have plumbed the house for a back boiler stove and all needed was to connect to 2 pipes. My house is also done in plastic however the plumber i know mentioned that aslong as i plumb the stove to the twin coil cylinder in copper, itll be ok.

Even though the house is big, i wouldnt have room for a log batch boiler.
 
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