Discuss Warmflow 50/70 oil burner boiler wont fire in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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spowy

My warmflow 50/70 oil fuelled central heaeting boiler wont fire keeps going to lockout after 12 secs.
The burner unit is the rdb1 and have done the usual checks.
Have checked i'm getting fuel and have bled the fuel at the pump,fitted a pressure gauge at the pump and i'm getting 100psi when i press the lockout button.
The thermostats are ok and im getting 240v,i have cleaned the photocell and checked the solenoid and all appear ok.
When the lockout button is pressed and the burner is running through its cycle I'm getting a spark and the fuel is coming through the nozzle but the burner just wont ignite.
Could this be a fuel problem is there anything else it can be any help will be very much appreceaited.
Regards Chris
 
Sounds like the photocell to me. If you set your meter to ohms, turn off power and connect to terminals 1 and 2 whoud be -500 ohms to 20k ohms in light. In dark should be over 500k ohms.

Fingers crossed I've got the right one. If not, then I bet it's the solenoid. If not then I'll have to think of something else!!!
 
Thanks for the reply I will double check the photocell the rsistances looked ok though, the solenoid resistance was about 98.6 ohms does that sound about right.
 
According to my notes thar's fine. Also 27 vdc for 5 seconds after 12 second pre-ignition.

Trying to work out rest of notes now ... !!!

Says under solenoid coil satronic
Check for 240v after pre-ignition period
No volts - replace control box
240v insert screwdriver and run burner and check magnestism - resistance through coil should be 2100 ohms. If screwdriver magnetises replace solenoid stem or fuel pump.

Is this of any help? Losing me I'm afraid!!!
 
I think it makes sense :) will try these checks in the morning thanks for your fast replies
 
Right I checked the photocell again resistance when its in the light is 2.1K ohms and when its in the dark its open circuit.

Solenoid resistance is 98.7 ohms and when i checked the coil magnetism resistance with the burner doing its 12 sec purge the resisantce was 1200 ohms the the screwdriver was magnetised to the solenoid so looking like the solenoid and stem what do you think.

Cheers Chris
 
Must admit I'm getting stuck - probably why you came here in the first place!! There are one or two others who do oil here so hopefully they'll pick this thread up. Trouble is this is bang on the end of the 12 second pre-ignition stage and start of ignition.

My next try would be to test for a vacuum on the pump and if this is okay. Is the resistance 1200 ohms or 2100? My notes ask to expect 2100. If vacuum and solenoid okay I'd guess the stem.

Notes say:

Check for 240volts after pre ignition
no volts - replace control box
240 insert screwdriver and check for magnetism. Reading 2100 ohms +/- 10%. If faulty replace coil. If screwdriver magnetises replace stem or fuel pump.*

* This is why I suggest a vacuum test on the pump. You've pressure going in but if no vacuum then I'd say it's pump but if vacuum I'd go for the stem.

I'm really fumbling now!!!
 
100psi is only about 6.9bar. You should be getting 8 bar, assuming of course you have your pressure gauge on the pressure outlet.
 
Hi thanks again for the replies,
the solenoid was defo 1200 ohms was maybe thinking of replacing the solenoid and seeing if that makes a difference, the pressure gauge was on the outlet so now maybe thinking it could be the pump will try the vacum test later.
 
I wonder if it's worth changing both the solenoid and pump as the problem seems to be one of these. Could be when you change one the problem will shift to the other. Easy for me to say though as it's not my money. But hope you get it sorted easily and soon.
 
If you carry spare pumps its always easiest to try a new one and see rather than spend ages doing diagnostic tests.

Many pumps come with a new solenoid anyway.

If not the pump then could be the control box.
 
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