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I have seen a great big list, but to be practical I have a ford connect! i have no room for my usual gas + installation gear as it is so only want around 10nozzles? a control box or 2?, d some flexes, servicing stuff mainly
 
I have had a few boiler repairs lately (oil) and would like to carry some spares , (not a lot !!!!) stuff like nozzles , the odd control box , flexi hoses etc. just basic stuff so when I get a repair or service job that I can try the obvious first as such before ordering more expensive parts. I have a kane 250 analyser oil kit model so have the smoke pump + gauges as I went gas safe registered firs as could not afford oftec too at the time. but am thinking of joining now, so any recommendations of a few stock I could carry, don't want to spend more than around £100ish quid , I that enough?. a few recommendations of most popular parts around.
thanks

my stock of nozzles is over £400 + vat!!, spare photo cells, capacitors,control boxes, AAVs, flexis, filters, electrodes, fire valve tester, fire valves, bearings for motors, wicks,vapour shells, soon a spare new burner (not wasting time on 2nds again), suction pump, tank transfer pump, solenoids, valve stems,ceramic insulation boards, rope seals, assorted flared fittings, coil of 10mm cu, list is endless and around £4000 plus at present.

If you spent £100, stick to vapourising range cookers, £20 on wicks and £100 on a new oil valve.

It is not cheap putting a van stock together for oil, but if you are wanting to get customer confidence the ability to pull a part out of the van is essential, especially if your in a rural area.
 
well im currently going to a property first to check what nozzle and flexi hose is needed before I can book a service in. it would be nice to have a small selection of stuff like that on me, obviously I can build my stock up , would be daft just to spend 4000 on hwos or wherever in one go!
 
.50/55/60/65/75/85 80 EH. they are the most common. And a .60 60 W.
You will do 99.9% of flexs with just 2:
1/4 male angled to 1/4 female straight
1/4 make angled to 3/8 female straight
Outside of that, the list is loooong.
 
Coils.
Danfoss state their operating range is 1.8 - 2.2 KOhms (across the 2 facing terminals).
If you suspect the coil is your intermittent problem, check the resistance when its been running for 10/15 mins - if the resistance is increasing, ie up to 2.5 or 2.6 then bingo its about to give up the ghost.
 
When swapping out a 996 Mectron oil pump, whip the screws off the solenoid stem plate and store in a nozzle pot - same as blast tube screws :)
 
Atkinson Tanktops - Worth checking that the lowest threaded joint is sealed properly from the factory (sits inside the tank, just above the hose barb & contains the nrv ball).

I have had 2 recently which were allowing air into the oil lines, causing the boiler to lock out and generally misbehave.
Both had air / vac leaks on this joint. Worth splitting it and putting a bit of oil seal on there.

Annoyingly they would prime nicely with the hand pump and run for an hour on the oil in the lines and tigerloop which makes for a boring cold day waiting to prove the repair.
 
Electrical testing.
Coils:
BFP coils should read between 1.8 - 2.4 KOhms
3 wire Mectron coils should read 1.4 Ohms across brown/blue and 1.47 Ohms across black/blue
RDB coils should read between 90 - 100 Ohms

Capacitors:
You can test the caps on any meter with the capacitance icon --l (-- BUT make sure there is no live to the wires. This will simply give you the read out in Uf

Transformers:
No ignition? You can test if the transformer is firing by wiring the live onto the motor live. If it fires on start up then its the control box thats faulty. Or more simply, if its an EBI, take the plug out and check for 240v - if you get it but no spark then its the transformer.
EBIs are '33%' which means they must only run for 1 minute in 3 otherwise they will cook. The later EBI4 are much hardier. If you get a really annoying boiler that cooks the EBIs then you can get a 100% unit which can run forever but obviously you are better off finding the cause rather than compromising.
Blown EBIs are usually as a result of a dodgy flame/ photocell/ control box that keeps asking it to come on.

Control Box
The control box gets its 50v power from the motor via the white wire - worth checking if you are having some strange faults.
 
Put these in your phone:

Danfoss Technical 01932 350655 (very helpful)
Riello Technical 01480 432144 option 5 then 4. Often a voicemail but Graham will call you back quickly, he's great.
Worcester 0844 892 3366 option 2 then 1. Open until 8pm.
Grant 01380 736920. Ask for technical, usually busy - tell her if you are on site and they will call back quicker.
 
Right, after 6 months worth of servicing and record keeping, here is my list of most common nozzles. This may help you if you are, like me, mostly domestic. From now on I have decided to deplete my range of Ws and just use ES instead.
 

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A piece of 5mm flat bar bent at 90 degrees can scrape almost anywhere in the combustion chamber. Drilling a hole in one end for a 8mm bolt makes a great leverage tool for getting out those pesky wb camray baffles.
 
I am currently on the Oftec-50 and am grateful for tips like this as to what to take on a job.
 
Coils.
Danfoss state their operating range is 1.8 - 2.2 KOhms (across the 2 facing terminals).
If you suspect the coil is your intermittent problem, check the resistance when its been running for 10/15 mins - if the resistance is increasing, ie up to 2.5 or 2.6 then bingo its about to give up the ghost.

Maybe a very silly question.......but......do you test this while it's still energised and connected to power?!!

I imagine the figures you posted above (RDB Coil 90 - 100 Ohms) is with the coil disconnected?
 
all resistance test is done on an electrically isolated (DE-energised) circuit
 
So the post I quoted from Bunker where he said to test the coil after it's been running 10-15 minutes, to see if the resistance is climbing, that is also with it de energised?!
 
Probably he meant to say test it isolated when its was warm after it has been in use
 
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