Discuss TOP TIP (oilies) in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Bunker

If I havnt said it before:

CHECK THE NOZZLE is what it says on the tin. Had it again today, a .1 in a .55 pot. No wonder it was schmokin...

Thats about 5 times in the last 12 months. All from HWOS so not dodgy stock.
 
I check some but I don't check all of them, I will now that's for sure!
 
If someone at the merchants has been taking the nozzles out of their container for some reason, then I wouldn't trust the nozzles quality as they may have touched or damaged the spray end. I avoid touching it even when fitting a new nozzle.
 
Had this a few years ago after an apprentice tidied my van.

Said apprentice was made to check every single nozzle had the correct lid. I usually carry a couple of hundred, kept him busy for a few hours and he never made the mistake again. He was also astonished at how much it hurts to get beaten with a flue brush..........
 
Also had it before, though not recently thought it was a 1.25 turned out to be a 3.5 :bomb2: didn't sound healthy though strangely it did run.
 
More Top Tips for those who are not hugely experienced:
- Flexibles.

Only carry 2 types:
1/4 male angled to 1/4 female straight
1/4 male angled to 3/8 female straight

I use Green bio ones for 3/8 and black long life for 1/4, just colour codes them in the van.
And a box of adapters, inserts, Heldite, isolators, 1/4 to 10mm, 3/8 to 10mm etc.

First remove old flex from oil pipe, place end into small tub.
Put new flex onto oil pipe.
Detach old flex from pump along with union if present (17mm and or 15mm spanner usually), once cracked, will drain into tub.
Open isolator and bleed new flex into tub (if no isolator, install one).
Install new angle end into pump in same orientation as last one came out (usually).

Old braided 3/8 hoses are often 19mm spanner with 17mm adaptor, new ones are bigger.

I also keep in my 'oil line sorting tray box thing' a compartment of all the odds and sods I take off old pipes, weird and wonderful conex threaded 1/2" to 3/8 female elbow iron (OK I made that one up..).

I always show the old hose to custard or leave in boiler until the next year.
 
I use a metal roasting pan for changing pumps and oil lines. Catches all the oil.
 
I use a metal roasting pan for changing pumps and oil lines. Catches all the oil.

I do exactly the same, - used to get them from old cookers! :smile:


I also prefer a large flexi bucket for cleaning baffles in & for any rubbish (old hoses, oil soaked rags, old boiler insulation etc.)
Also carry a plastic sealable container for holding any oil that you flush out or catch in another container which means you can recycle it or let it settle & use the clean oil later. A 3 or 5 litre strong container will be minimum.
 
More Top Tips for those who are not hugely experienced:
- Service tools.

Spanners/ sockets:
10mm - WB newer type 2nd hex bolts (dont use a philips)
11mm - Crossland oil filter bowls
12mm - mmmm, cant think of any use
13mm - most burner nuts (short set for minor 1s), some chamber doors. I use either a ratchet spanner or often a 1/4 socket set.
14mm - some unions for the flex on pressure gauge manifold
15mm - 1/4 male angle flex, some other 1/4 fittings
16mm - nozzle. I carry 2, some nozzle mounts.
17mm - (ratchet) many chamber doors, Riello nozzle mounts (although often spanner is too thick so mine is filed down a tad. Also this size for some oil line fittings, ratchet end useful for 3/8 males into fire valves etc.
19mm - some 3/8 fittings

Screwdrivers:
Philips for Riello (and later Minor1) blast tubes. Also for some electrode mounts.
Pozi No 2 for general purpose
Few flats for general purpose
Torx 20 & 25 for some burner dismantling

Adjustables, pump pliers etc
Hammer
Wire brushes
Flue brushes

To be continued
 
More Top Tips for those who are not hugely experienced:
- Service tools.

Spanners/ sockets:
10mm - WB newer type 2nd hex bolts (dont use a philips)
11mm - Crossland oil filter bowls
12mm - mmmm, cant think of any use

...12 mm open spanner needed for nut at back of older Reillo burners for the nut on pipe out to nozzle.
 
the biggest rubber line dust sheet you can find, as no matter how big it is something always escape off the edge :)
small ball pein hammer, to allow you to reach into the depths off the rayburn boiler and knock the last recalcitrant baffle up a bit to get it out !!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Dammit Best, I was going to say that for 12mm spanner, had to use it today!
Anyone come up with a novel idea to get to the 2 x 5mm allen key bolts out, that hold in (I think) sterling burners into SE Worcester heatslaves? Possibly one of the most annoying blots to get too.
 
ah, also one of the things you definitely need, even if you wont realise until the following year............... tub of copper grease!!! god send.
 
ah, also one of the things you definitely need, even if you wont realise until the following year............... tub of copper grease!!! god send.

I bought a big tub about 4 years ago. Used about a third. Haven't had a seized nut since.
 
ah, also one of the things you definitely need, even if you wont realise until the following year............... tub of copper grease!!! god send.

Usually had some. I also bought a big tub (too mean to buy the little tubes) & I don't use it, but would help if I remember to not leave it in the garage! :smile:
 
More Top Tips for those who are not hugely experienced:
- Flexibles.

Only carry 2 types:
1/4 male angled to 1/4 female straight
1/4 male angled to 3/8 female straight

Be careful with suntec pumps, the Male flexis can block an internal port on some of them.
 
ah, also one of the things you definitely need, even if you wont realise until the following year............... tub of copper grease!!! god send.

have a 45 gallon drum :D might scoop some into a container to take :)

my top tip, if you do oil servicing for rented property's

take you own oil, sods law they will have just moved in and awaiting delivery
or about to leave and tipping the tank up to get the last of it out !!!
 
have a 45 gallon drum :D might scoop some into a container to take :)

my top tip, if you do oil servicing for rented property's

take you own oil, sods law they will have just moved in and awaiting delivery
or about to leave and tipping the tank up to get the last of it out !!!

Does save a lot of time, if you bring your own oil, - but will you get paid extra?
Very handy to have a drum or 2 of Kerosine in severe weather for those holidays/weekends that an elderly person has run out.
Over here, there is Kerosine at some garage pumps.
Probably illegal to carry Kerosine, no doubt!
 
Does save a lot of time, if you bring your own oil, - but will you get paid extra?
Very handy to have a drum or 2 of Kerosine in severe weather for those holidays/weekends that an elderly person has run out.
Over here, there is Kerosine at some garage pumps.
Probably illegal to carry Kerosine, no doubt!

*grins*

who said it was your oil :D
 
Every little drop helps! :smile:

If you have oil heating yourself, then a drop of dirty oil now & again, added to a big drum to settle, has it's benefits!
 
Every little drop helps! :smile:

If you have oil heating yourself, then a drop of dirty oil now & again, added to a big drum to settle, has it's benefits!

i do :D
let it settle !!??!!??

a sack barrow with ply screwed to it
inlet hose, 12v electric pump, water separator, gauze filter and two large can type paper filters with a strainer going to the outlet hose :D
battery on the bottom with bungies

all inch tapping filters :D

.......
 
i do :D
let it settle !!??!!??

a sack barrow with ply screwed to it
inlet hose, 12v electric pump, water separator, gauze filter and two large can type paper filters with a strainer going to the outlet hose :D
battery on the bottom with bungies

all inch tapping filters :D

.......

That's too sophisticated for me! Lol! Are you a professional oil thief?
I find most dirty or water contaminated Kerosine will settle out if you leave it for a few days & you can use the good top stuff - the lighter clean Kerosine. Any really dirty water & oil crud can be recycled to proper place.
 
One of my best jobs was to remove an old tank after cust had converted to ng, they said they had run tank right down to 0 on tankmaster, and shut aga off. I had to remove aga for scrap and empty tank and decommission oil line. I ended up pumping nearly 400l of oil out of tank, that was a good day.
 
Some good tips on this thread! Someone on the forum once said to keep any waste oil to use in a Tilley lamp for night fishing etc. Lovely idea.

Don't fish or have a Tilley lamp but still like the idea!
 
List of suggested oil engineers tools (by no means definitive)

I only carry one type of flexi hose, the one HWOS calls Long01. If I find a different one on, I change the fittings to suit the Long01 hose. I don't see the point of carrying loads of different ended hoses. In all the time I have been doing boilers I have only ever come across 2 boilers which this hose did not fit and needed an elbow at the opposite end to the pump because of shortage of space.

I recommend that everyone gets into the habit of using flared fittings as opposed to compressions. The best price seems to be HWOS or BES



  1. Combustion analyser and printer (I scrounge till rolls from my local pub for it as one lasts ages and I'd never get through a full box of them)
  2. Smoke pump and papers
  3. Pressure and vacuum gauge set
  4. Fuel priming pump (one from an automotive supplier is adequate) and rubber hose that will fit on the end.
  5. Bearing puller for removing fans and motor bearings - I find this is the best BERGEN Prof Heavy Duty Bearing Puller 'B' Type 24-55mm on eBay (end time 06-Mar-11 19:11:56 GMT)
  6. couple of pairs of 6202RS bearings (from Ebay - but only get good branded ones, SKF, NTC etc) You'll know when the bearings are worn as the burner motor will make a rumbling / whining noise. You can also purchase from an automotive supplier as they are the same as alternator bearings.
  7. Pump drive couplings from HWOS
  8. Selection of nipples, elbows, couplings etc from the fittings page at HWOS
  9. Pipe flaring tool
  10. OFTEC forms - servicing and commissioning, oil storage risk assessment, installation
  11. One of those magnetic pickup tools which looks like a radio aerial with a magnet on the end
  12. 1/4" ratchet set and extension pieces (get a good quality set such as Britool)
  13. T handle long reach hex set
  14. Screwdriver handled socket driver
  15. glass rope and glass rope adhesive
  16. STAG B jointing compound (prefer this to Heldite another post mentioned as Heldite is awful to get off your fingers etc)
  17. PTFE tape (normal and gas tite (yellow spool))
  18. rolls of 10mm and 8mm copper pipe (white plastic coated) and roll of uncoated
  19. spare 3m 65 and 90 degreesC Teddington KBB fire valves (you can get more of different sizes as you go on) 1.5m is too small for many sites.
  20. GOOD selection of nozzles (from 0.50 to 1.0 USgall/h - larger ones you won't come across often and can order them as required. Get just kerosene ones to begin with (ES & EH). Some boilers will specify W nozzles you can buy as and when on next day delivery)
  21. PLENTY of 10mm brass inserts for copper pipe (HWOS do packs of 100)
  22. Selection of steel nuts for when you loose some behind the back of a boiler so you don't need to spend ages looking for them.
  23. Heat proof gloves for dismantling hot combustion chambers (I use welders gloves)
  24. disposable vinyl gloves like the dentist uses
  25. Barrier cream
  26. Beaded hand cleaner
  27. Hand cream
  28. One of each of the cleaning brushes that HWOS do
  29. Container to put waste oil into when cleaning out filters etc
  30. Spare filter elements (just get the two Crossland ones to begin with)
  31. Vacuum cleaner and spare bags (I use an old VAX cleaner but any will do)
  32. Dust sheets
  33. Kneepads (a MUST HAVE!)
  34. Tub of fire cement
  35. Tube of heatseal silicone and gun
  36. Multimeter
  37. Spare 3 amp fuses (a lot of boilers just have 13 amp fitted so should be changed)
  38. Boiler manufacturers literature to show to customers when persuading them to change to a new boiler.
  39. long 18/19mm drill but for drillling holes through walls for oil lines / fire valve capillaries
  40. Parts organiser boxes for all your fittings
  41. Nozzle box
  42. Set of flat, pozi and philips screwdrivers
  43. 8mm copper pipe and fittings for where you have a tank lower than the boiler (lot of people post problems on here caused by too large diameter pipe where tank is lower than boiler - always follow the table in the OFTEC book!)
  44. Set of combination spanners from 6mm up to 21mm and inlcuding ALL the inbetween sizes
  45. Scraper (paint scraper)
  46. Selection of metric machine screws (probably be able to get an assortment box from Toolstation these days)
  47. Torch (head torches are useful)
  48. Tape measure
  49. Circlip pliers
  50. pump pliers
  51. Standard pliers/nippers
  52. Set of adjustable spanners
  53. Selection of brass bushes, 3/8 to 1/4, 1/2 to 1/4 and 1/2 to 3/8 for example
  54. Mini pipe bender
  55. Round profile drift for reshaping deformed pipe ends.
  56. Small flat, rat tail and half round files
  57. Set of T handled Torx drivers
  58. Selection of o rings including 13mm ID x 4mm for Sika flow switches

From the sticky thread

Since then I find that the HWOS Long01 dont last more than a couple of years so I have switched to the green bio equivalent.
 
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I see hwos or renting analysers. 60 odd deposit and 20 plus vat a month. Get the analyser and printer. No callibration costs.
 
One of my best jobs was to remove an old tank after cust had converted to ng, they said they had run tank right down to 0 on tankmaster, and shut aga off. I had to remove aga for scrap and empty tank and decommission oil line. I ended up pumping nearly 400l of oil out of tank, that was a good day.

Had one better than that - Some developers needed an AGA and oil tank ripping out very quickly for building work to commence - how soon could I do it and could I give a price? I thought and gave them a verbal quote over the phone, allowing a contingency for unknowns and they said OK get down here ASAP as its holding work up. There was a 2,000 litre tank full to the brim! Best job ever! I got about £80 from the scrappy for the old AGA and the tank too!
 
What a crackin' thread - I'm totally green when it comes to oil. Thanks chaps. This place is ace.
 
Dammit Best, I was going to say that for 12mm spanner, had to use it today!
Anyone come up with a novel idea to get to the 2 x 5mm allen key bolts out, that hold in (I think) sterling burners into SE Worcester heatslaves? Possibly one of the most annoying blots to get too.
Yes, they are an awkward bar steward. I use a very small goblin with strong little arms to climb in and unwind them. Hope that helps.
 
Whoever came up with that method of connection for the WB heatslave boilers cannot have been an engineer. Far more sensible would have been a nut connection like for Riello burners which you can at least get a socket, extension and ratchet onto. IT's a bit like the daft angled valves on the Heatlsaves which you can't get at when you need to change them (as you invariably need to do because they are notorious for leaking) because of the lip on the air box, and also the position of them which sometimes leads to pinching off the flexi fuel line. IMO the heatslaves are one of the worst designed boilers out. They should have just used a type of burner with an air duct connection instead of that silly air box business.
 
How about the danesmoors with their burner guard, every time you pull them off you skin the back of your fingers with the casing on each side!
 
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