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Discuss Tool for stubborn tap head gear? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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JCplumb

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As the title suggests. Anyone know of a decent tool for removing a really stubborn tap head gear?
I've usually managed to crack them after a while but one job a couple of months ago had me beat, the customer had these really old taps and he loved them and I was close to threading the 'nut' part of the tap head trying to remove it. I actually admitted defeat on that one but have promised him I will be back when I figure out how to get it off. I was there to replace a valve on his toilet but he mentioned the dripping taps and said that 2 other plumbers had failed at removing them before me.
I remember seeing something on dragons den a year or so ago, it looked decent to be fair but was slated by the dragons.
 
Sounds like a nice new set of taps are needed.

Type in "Easy tapsplitter" in google if you want the Dragons Den device.... looks pretty good.
 
There is also a you tube video for easy tap splitter
 
I know it is a silly question but could these old taps be LH thread ??
 
I know it is a silly question but could these old taps be LH thread ??

Ive never come across this on taps but it's very worth ago! reverse threads.
 
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Had to use a socket on a ceramic disc works - socket gets a good grip. Also, if you really had to, a set of grips will not " round off " the nut part, & tend to grip well.
If you have trouble removing the bell shaped cover on the really old taps, try tapping all around the bottom of the cover with the rubber coated handles part of pliers or similar. Can take a while, but often allows them to slacken by hand.
 
Have you tried completely removing the tap and then try cracking it in a more comfortable position?
 
Yes, especially the modern taps may need taken off & into a vice, as they are metal to metal works to tap body. If very tight, try putting the spindle only into vice jaws & put a piece of wood against the tap spout & give it a sharp tap with a hammer.
 
I've done years of reactive maintenance and i've never had a tap head I couldn't remove.
A ring spanner on the head gear, an adjustable on the tap spout and squeeze them together. Sometimes you have to mount the sink to get some purchase which always raises eyebrows lol.
 
There is a spray sold in Screw Fix, which freezes the offending item and while it is contracting is sucks in a lubricating oil.

Used it once on something. Can't rememeber what but I still have half the can in the van. Might be worth a try. It's called Crack It Freeze Spray. ae235.jpg
 
Can't edit last post, but forgot to mention it's only ÂŁ6 a can. Worth keeping on board anyway.
 
I've done years of reactive maintenance and i've never had a tap head I couldn't remove.
A ring spanner on the head gear, an adjustable on the tap spout and squeeze them together. Sometimes you have to mount the sink to get some purchase which always raises eyebrows lol.

I use this technique, well kind of. Put spanner on the tap cartridge, and use my big grips to squeeze the spanner and tap body together. Just make sure you have summat on the spout to stop it getting scratched!


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jc i have some spanners just for removing tap valves, save you buying ring spanners if you dont have em already. im in bolton too you can borrow em if you like.
 
Wrap the tap spouts in soft tissue and a cloth and tape them up fully to protect the tap. Slide a 600mm pole, e.g steel pipe or small section of scaffold tube over the spout and you've now got extra leverage. Spray the tap heads with good old WD40 and let it sink in for about 5 mins. Hold the steel tube over the taps as a lever, and loosen off the tap head with 12" stillsons with another section of pipe/scaffold over the handle. Two people are sometimes better at this.
It may sound daft, but try to tighten the tap head once first before slackening it off. If you tighten anything even a bolt or screw first it slackens off much easier.

The other way is to remove the taps and put them in a vice, if all else fails.
 
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Any idea why?
It's because tightening, puts an extra notch from a screw in wood, an extra turn on the thread of a bolt etc that when you turn it back to it's original place, it then becomes slack as it's not tight anymore.

Hard to explain, but I hope you get the idea!
 
jc i have some spanners just for removing tap valves, save you buying ring spanners if you dont have em already. im in bolton too you can borrow em if you like.

Thanks for the offer but I'm only going to sort the tap next time I'm there, I get a fair bit of repeat business from this customer and the dripping tap is really just a niggle for him rather than a job that would require its own visit (and charge).
 
East tap splitter - only used it twice but excellent buy and well worth saving the knuckles i bought previously!
 
Hi I am having trouble with a stubborn tap head as well...I was using an adjustable wench on the tap head but its always slipping off. And my tap is a kitchen tap with a moveable sprout in between the hot and cold taps, so I don't have anything to to use for leverage.

I was thinking, Would a Ring Wench be more secure when turning the hexagonal bolt? How would I go about finding the right size of the ring wrench??

Help pleasee!
Ray
 
Hi I am having trouble with a stubborn tap head as well...I was using an adjustable wench on the tap head but its always slipping off. And my tap is a kitchen tap with a moveable sprout in between the hot and cold taps, so I don't have anything to to use for leverage.

I was thinking, Would a Ring Wench be more secure when turning the hexagonal bolt? How would I go about finding the right size of the ring wrench??

Help pleasee!
Ray

I use mole grips, never failed me.
 
Spray a lot of WD 40 on it first, leave it for ten mins. Try to tighten it first, then slacken it off. Watch, anything with teeth on it will chew up the brass! My 12" Bahco never slips and using the method I've described always gets results.
You can also get someone to hold the tap to stop it turning and slip a steel pole/scaffold tube over your adjustable and get maximum leverage.
 
I do a lot of local authority maintenance and we're always coming across this problem. I use one of the nerrad plier wrenches similar to the knipex one. They never ever slip and won't round off the flats
 
Plenty of leverage and a decent adjustable spanner or grips, leverage is the key.
 
Years ago on site we often got a good load of "ear bashing" off the boss for not "cracking" and then re-tightening taps before we put them on. The problem is breaking the basin when going back to do re-washering. If I remember right it was in a BS somewhere to "crack" taps before fitting.

I have had some even when you have them off the basin and heat them up they still will not move, even hitting them with a lump hammer does not work. Its just a case of try anything in the hope that something works.
 
I was taught at college to crack taps before fitting them but when you're under time constraints that sort of thing just doesn't happen.
 
rounded one off last wk had to file 2 flats on the head gear with a rough file then clamped with molegrips and a piece of pole on grips and spout

ant
 
Hello Dannypipe. I contacted Screwfix Helpline and was told that if I use this spray to take off the tap insert which has the washer from the kitchen tap, I will not be able to fit the new part as this spray shrinks the part and it will also affect the body of the tap so you will not be able to insert the new part with the washer built in. The best way forward I was advised is to remove the tap and replace it with the new one. What did you use the spray for and is there anyone else on the forum who has used the spray to get some feedback on the spray.
 
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