Search the forum,

Discuss To bung or drain down? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.

Jennie

Gas Engineer
Messages
283
Hi all,
I'm due to change a lock shield on a rad.
It is a fairly large house, and the rad is on the ground floor. Gravity fed. Two-floor house.
In theory, if I put bungs in the CH vent and supply pipes, the water should be held in the system with only a few drips while I swap the valves.
Is this the case in practise? I don't much fancy getting wet.
Otherwise, I'll just drain down first.
Thanks for all your advice,
Jennie
 
If you bung the feed and the expansion you'll be fine with towels after draining any residual pressure from a doc or just venting the rad. Make sure you close the bleed valve first though :confused:
 
Be mindful to keep only one open end as you change the valve, or swap really quick if possible.
 
Bung it, shut both the lock shield an wheel head, you can then put a tray or rubble sack under the connection from the lock shield to the tail of the rad. Drain the radiator, spin the lock shield valve on the pipe then either make a fitting up to connect to a hose it or open it up into a rubble sack to relieve the pressure once it stops your know it's created a vacuum an you can just replace the valve. That's if it does if you find it keeps glugging water out the valve then draining down would obviously reduce the risk of damage
 
After running the old valve into a hose for a few minutes, the water should completely stop flowing. Usually no more than 1/2 bucket water. Once that happens you know it will be dead easy to replace the valve.
Just be sure to first close any auto vents and only do one pipe at a time. Have plenty towels, drip tray, bucket and all tools at hand that are needed.
I bung the vent & feed nearly every job that I need to replace brass joints/valves. No problem cutting the olive off to remove old nut also.
I have actually replaced oil boilers without draining rest of system.
Only snag I have found is if the tank connector in the f&e tank has the internal lugs and won't let the bung in for a tight seal. I have on occasion had to drain the tank and then use a temporary brass stopend on the feed pipe
 
After running the old valve into a hose for a few minutes, the water should completely stop flowing. Usually no more than 1/2 bucket water. Once that happens you know it will be dead easy to replace the valve.
Just be sure to first close any auto vents and only do one pipe at a time. Have plenty towels, drip tray, bucket and all tools at hand that are needed.
I bung the vent & feed nearly every job that I need to replace brass joints/valves. No problem cutting the olive off to remove old nut also.
I have actually replaced oil boilers without draining rest of system.
Only snag I have found is if the tank connector in the f&e tank has the internal lugs and won't let the bung in for a tight seal. I have on occasion had to drain the tank and then use a temporary brass stopend on the feed pipe
 
I`m sure you will have heard of this, if the feed does have lugs on the inside, a potato forced on the outlet can work. Just don`t force it in too far, you don`t want a potato plug in your pipe
 
I`m sure you will have heard of this, if the feed does have lugs on the inside, a potato forced on the outlet can work. Just don`t force it in too far, you don`t want a potato plug in your pipe

I've used a carrot but potato sounds good as well. I reckon swede and parsnips will work too but broccoli probably not so good!
 
I used to drain down all the time when I was on the cards. Now that I am self employed I only drain down if I have to.
 
There used to be a Scottish member on here called Colin, who often said a parsnip is perfect for bunging tanks.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to To bung or drain down? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

Hi All This is following on from thread I made a few days ago but can't seem to find I'm in a bit of a bind with my CH design where I want to sort all of my rads and do some other bits including fitting a filter but I'm stumped on how to drain down due to how the system is put together...
Replies
0
Views
406
    • Like
Hi, I live in a house that is 20yr old. There is a single soil stack running from the top floor (of three) through the first floor bathroom and then through the kitchen to the drains. A while back I started to hear a drip hitting the kitchen ceiling (now with some ceiling evidence too) from...
Replies
1
Views
179
I'm going to have my bathroom renovated and that includes changing my rusty old rad for a towel rail. I wanna cut down the costs as much as possible so there's things I want to do myself. In order to change the rad I'll have to turn off the lock shields then slowly drain the rad. The thing is...
Replies
4
Views
464
T
Hi all, seeking advice on my toilet. (Layman here, please be gentle with me.) When we flush the loo upstairs, it flushes fine (therefore assuming no suggestion of any actual blockage) but after the flush we get a rumbly gurgling from deep within the pipework somewhere and the water level in the...
Replies
2
Views
531
Hi all, I have an old toilet on the top floor (to be removed) which empties into an outdoor vertical SVP and into the ground. The pipe is straight with a vent terminal on top. Another toilet on the ground floor empties through the suspended timber floor into (what I suspect) a drain. I wish...
Replies
3
Views
499
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock